Different ways to remove runs.

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Panelwagon62

It was mentioned to start a thread where everyone can post their way to remove runs, anyone feel free to post, someone will always learn from it.
 
One method, I have tried.
Spread a thin coat of glazing putty over and around the run, just one wipe.
Start blocking the run, when the glazing putty is gone the run is leveled and the glazing putty protects the low spots next to the run, so you don't burn through.
This works good but only have tried it twice, just to see if it would work.--Too much extra work for me.

My favorite way.
Take 320 DA paper and do not use a block but just your fingertips. Sand the hight spot of run only until the run is level with clear, then with small block of hand pad block real quick with 1000-1500. Fast, seems child proof and have done this way many, many times.
 
Meguiars makes little stone blocks that work really good.
They're only about 2"x1" in size and can be easily
sanded back flat from usage.
You can "feel" the run with them and sand it without doing much
sanding to the surrounding area.
1000 grit is the coarsest grit they come in but it
works real good with soapy water.
The hardness of the stone gets it really flat.
 
Jim,
I use the mequiars blocks and I have a 400 block version and a 1500 block version. They seem to work pretty good. For perfection I kinda like the sounds of the glaze putty skim.
 
Panelwagon62;15628 said:
It was mentioned to start a thread where everyone can post their way to remove runs, anyone feel free to post, someone will always learn from it.
Click to expand...

The last good run I made was on my son's car at about 2:00 am. (yeah, i get booth time when my customers let me, LOL). I put a perfect icicle run about 8 inches long on the back where the tag goes. I left it there as a way of signing the job! Since I did it with Universal i figures I can sand it out anytime I want.
 
It seems that the 400 Meguiars block had been discontinued, and the coursest you can get now is 1000 grit.
 
Awhile back Barry explained how to remove them while they are still wet using a pinstriping brush and some reducer, I never tried it but wanted to and forgot the proceedure. Barry can you explain that proceedure again?
 
A lot of people use a razor blade to scrape most of the run down, this is done by first lightly rounding the corners of the blade, then hold the blade at a 45* angle and backswipe the edge against some carboard so the edge slightly curls forming a burr-now you've got a scraper similar to a straight razor that will shave the run down. It's important that the clear be cured to the point that it isn't rubbery or else you'll gouge and tear the run. Another variant of the razor blade method is apply some tape over the outer corners of the blade so the corners don't dig, the blade will then ride on the tape and shave the run. Finish off by sanding then buffing.

I still prefer to just sand the run mostly off with a piece of plexiglass or a hard block and some 600 then allow it to cure more either with time or some heat cycles, then finish sanding it flush with a block and 1000, then move on to finer grits then buff-they never show up again. A hard block is key to making sure your sanding pressure stays only on the high spot-the run.
 
I use barry's method with the 320.. works really well, I use to use the blade but now prefer the 320.
 
Yep 320 here also like I said in the other thread.. Since Im impatient like most of us, I have more than once ripped the head of a run off and then had another whole issue of repairing that spot and re clearing an entire panel..
 
Bob Hollinshead;15687 said:
Awhile back Barry explained how to remove them while they are still wet using a pinstriping brush and some reducer, I never tried it but wanted to and forgot the proceedure. Barry can you explain that proceedure again?
Click to expand...

Bob, I have seen that done but not sure it was me that posted.
I did try it once on a header panel, BUT it was on the top where it was semi level and I took a #2 sword brush and soaked the high parts up, and then dipped the brush in some slow reducer and lightly, smooth the marks out and shot another coat of clear, It was a minor sag and next day it did look like it was not there except a little dry look.

Not sure it would work good on a side then again what painterd o you know that always has a roll of tape in his pocket when he paints?? LOL
 
Is it important that the 320 paper be DA paper, rather than say from the 3m roll for long blocks? I never get a paint job without a handful of runs, so I'm always looking for faster ways to remove them without making things worse.
 
About a week ago i installed a few custom flow indicators on the truck i have been working on and decided they didnt look good afterwards lol. I went over them with 600 first then let it dry for a few nights. Last night i dusted a little bit of guide coat over the runs, then wet sanded them with 800 on a paint stick. They came out super flat with no signs they were there at all. Worked well for me. I tried the trick of applying masking tape over the run then wetsanding, didnt care for it much.
 
Jim,
My meguiar blocks are at least 5 years old so they probably have been discontinued. I bought them locally at the paint jobber back then. I really like the 400 block and I don't use the 1500 block.
 
tape off area around drip/s diff size blocks with 400 to 2000 grits like mentioned. my favorite for small drips on curved edges is sandpaper super 77'd to a chopstick.
 
I like the razor blade method. I dont file the edges though. I just put some masking tape on each side which aids in a couple ways
1- It lifts the razor off of the surface ~0.015" so you only hit the spots higher than the surface. The only down side here is you have to check the tape periodically to ensure you havent broken through.
2- It reduces the friction and allows easy movement of the razor.

Once most of the high spots are gone, its 800 wet on a paint stick til flat, then step it out and polish. Works well for me!
 
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