dustless blasting

Senile Old Fart;14254 said:
I noticed the 150psi requirement.
Also there is a lot of conflicting information on the pages of tests for the Hold tite 102 metal treatment they recommend.


Barry, what is your opinion on the use of Hold Tite 102 before SPI epoxy?

I really know nothing about it, I wonder if that is the same stuff the soda companies recommend for neutralizing??
If it is, we have a restro shop here that does soda blasting and has used the (I think) holdtite or something similar and said tests out good but he is still pressure washing with purple power instead of using the holdtite, if the same stuff.
 
Brad J.;28920 said:
The non recycling of the media would be more expensive and your right about the mud.

Crushed glass is only $8 for a 50# bag, but I priced that blast unit last year at $4000 and I just checked again to see if it came down any but now its $5000. Thats their smallest unit.
 
a friend of mine was interested in the unit so he was watching a bunch of videos of people using it and on one of the shots they got in real close and he could see the mixing valve on it and was able to read the mfg. name on it. the dustless blasting co doesnt make that unit at all. they are just a reseller who markets the thing. i dont remember off hand who the company was but he did go on their own website and i think he said the units were much cheaper directly from them.

the crushed glass is even cheaper in the sack. last time i bought one my price was $280 for 3000lbs.
 
WOW. This thing is amazing. I see a great business opp here. Wish i could afford the start up cost!
 
you will never see me hit a panel with 150 lbs of pressure .
crushed glass has a moh of 5.5 so it will warp metal . blasting a coat of duplicolor or an old original lacquer job is not that difficult. my type5 acrylic will clean up an oem job fast and it is moh 3.0
dustless blasting was developed to pass osha and epa standards just like soda .
 
Shine, do you go back over the metal after the acrylic with something harder to give it "tooth," or sand it before primer? I am guessing the the acrylic does not leave any mark on the metal.
 
i use acylic on glass mostly. when i use starblast or any other media the panels will get sanded. i block with 80 to see where i am at on metal work . starblast is one of the best i have found for pits and crevasses . it cleans them out and leaves about an 80 grit tooth .
 
I was suggesting using a venturi type nozzle to get rid of the dust and salts.

I did some more research and the AquaMaster 100 has an air cfm requirement of 70/385cfm and an air pressure requirement of 30/145 psi .
There is an air pressure regulator on the control panel for the user to set it where they wish.

Air Blast AquaBlast 100
 
I just had the bottom of a car I'm working done. The factory undercoat was over a 1/4 " thick in places. I was impressed. I have a gravel parking spot so the debris will just be absorbed in the gravel like sand from the sandblaster. Stops the gravel from moving to the grass. It took about 8 bags of glass and a 100 gals of water and about a half a day. IMG_2214.JPG

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I have heard that wet blasting seams will pack the glass in there and it will be hard to remove even after it dries, do you notice that to be true?
 
I didn't notice that. He sprayed it off with pressurized water when he was done. The seams look good. I check it out when I blow it off in the next couple of days.
 
$300.00 for just the bottom. He says he charges $800.00 for normal size car. Of course the bottom would be a little extra.
 
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