engine block painting
- Thread starter ksungela
- Start date
I used a toyota silver ss on the fiberglass side exhaust covers on my corvette. I think it's about right, most people think they're aluminum. I'll post a color code tomorrow when I get back to the shop. Btw... nothing really looks like bare alloy. And you may look into Sharkhyde, I've had really good results with it.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
How I've done it in the past Ken. Start bare metal, reduced epoxy, (to keep the millage down) then base, then Euro clear , I have also used a matte clear as topcoat. There are a lot of silver basecoats that would work depending on what look you are trying to achieve.
Slo is right, none of them will look like polished aluminum though. If that's the look you are after, you could try polishing the block if that's desired, then applying activated adhesion promoter, followed by clear. It works and holds up well. Thanks to Jim C. for turning me on to this.
Slo is right, none of them will look like polished aluminum though. If that's the look you are after, you could try polishing the block if that's desired, then applying activated adhesion promoter, followed by clear. It works and holds up well. Thanks to Jim C. for turning me on to this.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Use activated ad-pro first and then the clear.
The aluminum stroker I did clean three times with 700 no sanding and 4 hours later spayed two full coats of epoxy gray.
Two days later used Deltron VW silver and
The next day cleared.
The car now has 8,000 + miles on it.
It was a new block just under 500 hp.
If an old block, I would probably scuff since aluminum.
Two days later used Deltron VW silver and
The next day cleared.
The car now has 8,000 + miles on it.
It was a new block just under 500 hp.
If an old block, I would probably scuff since aluminum.
That's a bad place to risk anything rattle can, the do over would be a real bear.