epoxy fisheyes

D

dant

What couses severe fisheyes when using epoxy. It is worse on bare metal as if I sprayed over oil. Cleaned with waterborn cleaner used two towel method. Sprayed the next day had areas of fisheyes? Sata 3000 with 1.3 28 psi
 
dant said:
used two towel method.
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What kind of towels? If you aren't, you should be using dedicated automotive prep wipes.

Never use detail towels.

Guys, just a reminder, when you are washing a car with wax and grease remover, never use a detail rag as shown in the picture! I just had another issue this week where a guy who does everything by the book had a couple of areas where the epoxy wanted to jump off the car when sprayed and the rest...
www.spiuserforum.com
 
Something else that I also like to do is let the epoxy induce a little longer than the required 30 mins. Shot some parts last night, so I mixed my epoxy and let it induce while I was getting everything ready, probably had about a 3hr induction time. Now its possible that I am finally learning to spray it, but this seems to work for me.
 
rustover said:
Something else that I also like to do is let the epoxy induce a little longer than the required 30 mins. Shot some parts last night, so I mixed my epoxy and let it induce while I was getting everything ready, probably had about a 3hr induction time. Now I may be finally learning to spray it, but this seems to work for me.
Click to expand...

I have done that for years, and most of the time, I induce overnight, seems to me, but I can't prove it to make it more childproof.
 
all this is good info on the epoxy. waterborne is never dry when you think it is. surface can feel dry and look dry but if it hasnt been allowed to sit for atleast 30 min your going to be looking at fisheyes in the epoxy from the moisture on the surface. i always prefer the 710 since it flashes faster. like these guys said the epoxy cant be sprayed like a typical primer or clear. it should not go on thick and flow out. it has alcohol in it and if its allowed to flow the air blowing across the surface of it from the gun will flash off the alcohol too fast and cause major cratering. it doesnt hurt anything, just looks bad if its something your gonna see.
 
I agree with Don and Elwood, first and second coat has to go on LIGHT, else I'm sanding out bigass fisheyes, no matter how clean. I have to get used to this because I'm used to hosing on primer. Even reduce it a little if you need it smooth and go light, and induce an hour+ helps.
 
I've only used the black and grey epoxy the last 10+ years and like everybody says the first coat has to go on light. A couple things I've noticed over the years.

1.Rough blasted metal can take a heavy coat right off the bat and not seperate/fisheye. The texture must keep it together better.
2.My 2nd and 3rd coats are pretty thick. Most of my jobs are epoxy only and I find that 3 good coats builds pretty good. 1 coat in the morning. 1 coat at lunch. 1 coat at the end of the day.
3.Black and Grey fisheye less than the white. I'm doing a white car and I'm on my third gallon of white epoxy and it is very sensitive to fisheyes even on the 2nd and 3rd coats. I don't think I'd use white epoxy without 2k because I think it would take forever to get the build. I would end up at the same ending but it would take more time/coats.
4. White is very transparent compared to the grey.

Just some observations I've noticed. Oh, #4 bring back the activator cans with the large opening so I quite splashing the first 1/4 of a new gallon all over my shirt.

5. We are lucky to be able to purchase a great product like this.
 
What do you do once you have these fisheyes? Can you spray them out with additional coats after the first coat sets up? Or do you have to sand them out once dry and then respray?
Thanks.
 
The 3rd coat will almost completely bury them so it isn't a big deal unless your using epoxy for chassis black. Then you have to sand and start over.
 
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