Epoxy in the cold

I have a Garage Guy forced air with a concentric vent. Best money I ever spent. I wish I had an A/C.
 
Whitesnake said:
Yeah they’re nice. I use a furnace as well. Kero heater just keeps up temps in winter if painting with fan on.
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My intake is just a garage window that I put a furnace filter into. Surprisingly, it really helps reduce the amt of cold air coming in without significantly reducing the ventilation. It was 25 when I was painting yesterday and the temp inside only dropped a few degrees.
 
AAE said:
My intake is just a garage window that I put a furnace filter into. Surprisingly, it really helps reduce the amt of cold air coming in without significantly reducing the ventilation. It was 25 when I was painting yesterday and the temp inside only dropped a few degrees.
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Yeah I’m pretty much the same set up lol.
 
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Oil forced air in shop and kerosene torpedo to blast thru filters in my cross draft booth. 1K is $6.99 a gal pn PA.
 
MJM said:
I've been following this thread from the start since I'm going to heat my garage so I can work thru the winter. My garage is 780 sq ft. I'm looking at this mini split system. Any thoughts concerning it?

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I guess you are too far north for a heat pump so I think it’s just an electric strip heater. Not very efficient and electric heat is the most expensive afaik. Mike is the AC and heat expert.

Don
 
MJM said:
I've been following this thread from the start since I'm going to heat my garage so I can work thru the winter. My garage is 780 sq ft. I'm looking at this mini split system. Any thoughts concerning it?

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Way out of my field, but the short warranty time(s) caught my attention....Supplyhouse.com might have some items for you to view
 
I've been looking at Daikin's the last couple of months. This ones good to 5 degrees, 1000sq ft. I need to go larger and -5. Hospital I worked at for a while ran all Daikin's roof top walk in units is why I was looking at them.

John

 
AAE said:
Shop stays at 70 almost the entire time. I'm going to make a diverter to angle the air away from the work area.
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Sound like it works pretty good for you. You mean a diverter on the heater? What’s the size of your shop and ceiling height? How many btu is your GG heater? I was looking at those but might just go with a new standard HE propane furnace. Exhaust is only pvc, plus I can add a/c if I’d like. Not sure but I should update.
 
Whitesnake said:
Sound like it works pretty good for you. You mean a diverter on the heater? What’s the size of your shop and ceiling height? How many btu is your GG heater? I was looking at those but might just go with a new standard HE propane furnace. Exhaust is only pvc, plus I can add a/c if I’d like. Not sure but I should update.
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I mean a diverter for the incoming air so it's not blowing directly on the project. Just a piece of plywood really. I don't remember the BTU. It's been my best investment in my work
 
MJM said:
I've been following this thread from the start since I'm going to heat my garage so I can work thru the winter. My garage is 780 sq ft. I'm looking at this mini split system. Any thoughts concerning it?

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The second floor of my house is about 750 square ft and it is heated and cooled with two Bryant mini split heads. The entire second floor is spray foam insulation so it’s very efficient up there.

Minisplits are very efficient but electricity is the most expensive form of energy. They cost almost nothing to cool my upstairs in the summer, but heating they added about $100/month to my electric bill give or take.

My two Bryant units were $6k installed and have 100% heating efficiency down to -5F. At -22F they drop down to 75%. Keep in mind I’m in SW MI.

The unit you have linked isn’t a very good one. Your garage needs to be insulated very well or it will work the hell out of that split.

The main thing against them though is they aren’t good for dusty environments.
 
Our 1 time issue with a torpedo...
It was evidently a "dirty burner".
We had issues with unburned fuel in the air.
We all know where that crap ended up!
We have a dual head propane burner, tank mounted.
Warm it up, shut down, shoot the materials, flash it off, go back to burner to stabilize the temps.
"Booth" has incoming filters and 2 exh fans.
 
I'm getting ready to paint my chassis in the garage (first auto paint job) and here is what I'm planning on doing and please feel free to offer any advice. I'm going to make a temporary paint booth in my garage by hanging plastic from floor to ceiling and all around the chassis. I will set up a box fan and filter at the bottom of the overhead garage door by raising it a couple of feet. I plan to get the chassis media blaster either Dec.21 or 22 and pick it up on Dec.23rd. Then I hope to shoot it on Saturday the 24th. But I am thinking of going with oil filled heaters (2) to run constantly prior to painting and after painting to run it 3 days so the epoxy can/will cure. The forecast for the 24th is around 25 degrees with a low in the teens. I'm hoping this will work, but if you see a better way I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
 
JulietMike said:
I'm getting ready to paint my chassis in the garage (first auto paint job) and here is what I'm planning on doing and please feel free to offer any advice. I'm going to make a temporary paint booth in my garage by hanging plastic from floor to ceiling and all around the chassis. I will set up a box fan and filter at the bottom of the overhead garage door by raising it a couple of feet. I plan to get the chassis media blaster either Dec.21 or 22 and pick it up on Dec.23rd. Then I hope to shoot it on Saturday the 24th. But I am thinking of going with oil filled heaters (2) to run constantly prior to painting and after painting to run it 3 days so the epoxy can/will cure. The forecast for the 24th is around 25 degrees with a low in the teens. I'm hoping this will work, but if you see a better way I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
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That's how I would do it, just check the temp at the floor, as it will be much colder then the middle of the car. 65 - 70 at the floor is enough.
 
RenewAP said:
That's how I would do it, just check the temp at the floor, as it will be much colder then the middle of the car. 65 - 70 at the floor is enough.
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Agree. Sounds like a good plan. A handheld IR thermometer is needed and only ~$20 on Amazon.
You may know, forgive me if you do, but after blasting you need to scuff with 80 grit before shooting the epoxy.
Another tip, if you don't know, the epoxy is very hard to stir up the solids if it has been sitting any time.
A few days before shooting, I start setting the cans upside down and then rotating them a few times per day. Makes it much easier.
 
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