Epoxy on interior plastic
- Thread starter Rbm
- Start date
jlcustomz
evil painter
Somebody else can better answer this as I haven't tried epoxy on interior plastics yet, But wanted to mention flame treating can be used in place of adpro. A much misunderstood procedure, you're not scorching the plastic with the heat of the torch. You're barely warming it. The oxidizing of the flame temporarily does something molecular to the surface, as well as bringing up oils to be wiped off. Still would work in a short time frame as with adpro. Manufacturers use flame treating in place of adpro also for lower cost reasons.
Different types of plastics..... I would guess most older interior parts to be ABS plastic, which is much easier to paint. Plastics such as polypropylene & polyethelyne, like late model bumper plastics are much more difficult & absolutely need treatment.
Also wanted to mention an idea here. In a recent thread where a compressor died during epoxy use, mixed epoxy sprayed 36 hours later unreduced with possibly a dirty gun gave a texture that could be nice for interior use. Could be replicated with slightly thickened epoxy & low spraying pressure.
http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/compressor-seized-in-middle-of-coat.6434/
Different types of plastics..... I would guess most older interior parts to be ABS plastic, which is much easier to paint. Plastics such as polypropylene & polyethelyne, like late model bumper plastics are much more difficult & absolutely need treatment.
Also wanted to mention an idea here. In a recent thread where a compressor died during epoxy use, mixed epoxy sprayed 36 hours later unreduced with possibly a dirty gun gave a texture that could be nice for interior use. Could be replicated with slightly thickened epoxy & low spraying pressure.
http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/compressor-seized-in-middle-of-coat.6434/
anotheridiot
Member
I thought it was the other way around. Older plastics are less adulterated plastics and could use some help, where the new stuff is poly blend stuff that works well with poly urethane paints. I mean, think of a current bumper cover being pliable, and an old piece of plastic trim that shatters when it breaks.
There are some nylons that old formulas of epoxies will actually dissolve. Customer uses nylon caps to cover screws and wanted us to paint them with a CARC coating. I had to prove to them that it is not made for plastics as the epoxy and polyurethane topcoat just flaked off after pitting the part. Epoxy hardens due to a chemical reaction, and what happens to the plastic during that reaction is what you need to learn.
Try something inconspicuous first or use some cheap epoxy that might not hurt the plastic. Honestly, there are some rattle can paints that are made just for plastic from Rustoleum or Krylon.
There are some nylons that old formulas of epoxies will actually dissolve. Customer uses nylon caps to cover screws and wanted us to paint them with a CARC coating. I had to prove to them that it is not made for plastics as the epoxy and polyurethane topcoat just flaked off after pitting the part. Epoxy hardens due to a chemical reaction, and what happens to the plastic during that reaction is what you need to learn.
Try something inconspicuous first or use some cheap epoxy that might not hurt the plastic. Honestly, there are some rattle can paints that are made just for plastic from Rustoleum or Krylon.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
These are awesome for old plastic and nylon....
https://www.herbsparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=PAINT
https://www.herbsparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=PAINT
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Barry, is there a need to go over plastic surfaces with a scotchbrite pad to provide scratch for the epoxy?
Also, if the plastic has a texture to it should the epoxy be reduced?
Also, if the plastic has a texture to it should the epoxy be reduced?
OEM (Toyota and Honda) have always recommended that you use a gray scuff pad with sanding paste for your cleaning and sanding and than an alcohol clearer based wax and grease remover.
Solvent wax and grease removers can react with certain mold releases.
When in doubt use it but a simple test is with a single side razor blade is to shave a small piece and put in water, if it floats you need an adpro, if sinks you don't.
I have a large cabinet bead blaster and have had great luck lightly bead blasting (vintage) plastic trim and vinyl after cleaning with WG remover. Blasting gets into the texture better, I then spray with adpro and 2 to 4 coats of AG111 for a durable finish as it's everything proof and doesn't scratch easily, a million times more durable than a rattle can anything. But when I use up the can I have now I'll be getting a can of Barrys epoxy in black to try out.
NextGen Classics
Floor sweeper
I just did the interior on my 67 mustang.It had a couple of coats of rattle can on it from previous restos.
What I did was soak all the parts with brake fluid at least twice,then pressure washed the old paint off being careful not to get to close to the panel.
This works great on the grained panels,not so much on the smooth panels as the plastic is different.Then I washed them with a brush and Dawn soap,rinsed,then scrubbed them with a maroon scotchbrite and Dawn.
Then I washed them one final time,rinsed and let them dry. Once dry I tacked them and shot reduced epoxy on them followed by matte black single stage. I will post pics on my build thread soon
What I did was soak all the parts with brake fluid at least twice,then pressure washed the old paint off being careful not to get to close to the panel.
This works great on the grained panels,not so much on the smooth panels as the plastic is different.Then I washed them with a brush and Dawn soap,rinsed,then scrubbed them with a maroon scotchbrite and Dawn.
Then I washed them one final time,rinsed and let them dry. Once dry I tacked them and shot reduced epoxy on them followed by matte black single stage. I will post pics on my build thread soon