Epoxy over old paint

S

Sladek15

I’m semi new to spi products and painting in general. I’m doin a complete restoration on my dodge 2500 due to rust. I’ve used spi epoxy on the frame after it was blasted and a few other suspension parts.
but recently I found a rust free Texas cab and bed to swap over to my rolling chassis that is crazy clean. But it needs a full color change. It’s currently white and my plan is to change it to black.
my plan is to black epoxy the underside of the cab and inside the cab since it won’t really be seen and or covered up. And just leave it at that. I know goin down to bare metal would be best for the epoxy but I’m just not gonna do that. It has great clean factory paint on it now. So what do I need to do to get the epoxy to adhere to it now? Is scuffing with red scotch brite enough or do I need to do something more aggressive. Thanks in advance.
 
This is going down the road of your epoxy sucks in about a year.

If you are treating it without exposing bare metal, why bother with epoxy? De gloss it and spray it. No body work that even needs to be sealed.
 
I have used epoxy to lock down previous paint jobs. Obviously there are a number of questions that need to be answered.
How many layers of paint on the truck now? You don't want excessive paint build up.
Is the paint that's on there well adhered to the metal?
Is that paint that's on there going to dissolve when solvents are applied? Etc.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
I have used epoxy to lock down previous paint jobs. Obviously there are a number of questions that need to be answered.
How many layers of paint on the truck now? You don't want excessive paint build up.
Is the paint that's on there well adhered to the metal?
Is that paint that's on there going to dissolve when solvents are applied? Etc.
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Just by him saying rust free and factory paint job, tends to show its been a paint that has lasted as long as it has, the only problem he has is it is white.
 
It’s only a 15 year old truck so I’d assume its just the factory Chrysler paint job. Just looks like white base with no clear. It’s in really good shape and if I wasn’t changing colors I wouldn’t even bother with it.

my intention with the epoxy over it was to hopefully seal everything, while also making it the black color that I need. I could base and clear with my spi black base and universal clear but figured the epoxy would hold up better and be better for rock chips under the truck. Also, I repaired some small dents in the rockers of the truck and now have some exposed polyester glaze that I had planned on priming with the epoxy so I just figured I could do under the truck and prime the rockers all at the same time while I had it on the 2 post lift at my shop.
 
15 years old its still going to be base and clear.

Guess the point is when a project is started with SPI, its bare metal, 80 grit scratch so it bites as designed and sticks like it should. Spraying over anything is still trusting the adhesion of said anything, and or any body work you might find if you noticed this was repainted ( you brought up already exposing the glaze). I did a base clear job on a 2002 Dodge product, had tough time getting adhesion and eventually the clear peeled off. So I would at least scratch it as hard as you can with the 80 grit since the paint would start fallin off if the adhesion was not there when you cut it that hard. If you scratch it hard and the paint does not chip or sheet off, then smooth it down and treat it like a seal coat.
 
Inside and underneath the cab, scuff with 180 and scotchbrite. I would be leary of the outside, though. White trucks have a history of peeling, and 15 years is more than enough time for the paint to go south. I just did one today that is 7 years old. It had a wrap, and when they pulled it off, 50% of the paint came with it. These cup brushes work nice on uneven areas to paint. Real time saver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L9FV7...olid=3GCHGUT8LMDN0&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 
texasking said:
Inside and underneath the cab, scuff with 180 and scotchbrite. I would be leary of the outside, though. White trucks have a history of peeling, and 15 years is more than enough time for the paint to go south. I just did one today that is 7 years old. It had a wrap, and when they pulled it off, 50% of the paint came with it. These cup brushes work nice on uneven areas to paint. Real time saver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L9FV7...olid=3GCHGUT8LMDN0&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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Interesting. Never used those before. I’ve used the wired ones but not the nylon. I’ll look into those. Thank you.
 
Ok so I had originally planned on da’ing down with 180 and shootin epoxy tonight. But when I started sanding with 180 under the cab I noticed I was quickly goin to bare metal. The original paint was adhering fine it seemed. Just not a whole lot of material. So after the comments yesterday I just decided to strip it all down to bare metal and start fresh. Since it wasn’t very hard to get it there anyway.
now several hours later I’m finally done and my arms and shoulders feel like jello from holding them above my head all after noon sanding and painting. But I feel good and confident now that it’s all done knowing that I started at bare metal and the epoxy shouldn’t have any problems.
I will say though, as a beginner painter, painting upside down above your head with many tight areas and crevices is no easy task. And I’m sure a skilled painter could of done it a lot better than I did. But luckily it will never be seen by anyone but me and only when I’m under the truck, so I’m happy.
I don’t see me doin this same process for inside the cab though, so it will either be scuff and shoot ot possibly just using some type of sound deadening spray, like the lizardskin stuff. Anyone ever use that stuff and recommend it or not.
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Went ahead and shot the inside today. Turned out pretty good.
I’m leavin the outside of the cab for my shop painter to do since he has more experience than me, and that’s what will be seen. Lucky for me he was rear ended in a snow storm a couple weeks ago, so we’re gonna trade off him painting my cab for me doin the body work on his car. Hopefully I’ll be able to put the cab on my rolling chassis in the next couple weeks.
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Sladek15 said:
Ok so I had originally planned on da’ing down with 180 and shootin epoxy tonight. But when I started sanding with 180 under the cab I noticed I was quickly goin to bare metal. The original paint was adhering fine it seemed. Just not a whole lot of material. So after the comments yesterday I just decided to strip it all down to bare metal and start fresh. Since it wasn’t very hard to get it there anyway.
now several hours later I’m finally done and my arms and shoulders feel like jello from holding them above my head all after noon sanding and painting. But I feel good and confident now that it’s all done knowing that I started at bare metal and the epoxy shouldn’t have any problems.
I will say though, as a beginner painter, painting upside down above your head with many tight areas and crevices is no easy task. And I’m sure a skilled painter could of done it a lot better than I did. But luckily it will never be seen by anyone but me and only when I’m under the truck, so I’m happy.
I don’t see me doin this same process for inside the cab though, so it will either be scuff and shoot ot possibly just using some type of sound deadening spray, like the lizardskin stuff. Anyone ever use that stuff and recommend it or not.
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I hate to go off topic, but what did you use to sand the bottom of the floor? I am doing similiar work, but find it difficult to sand into the depressions in the sheet metal.

Thanks
 
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