H
Herkman
My paint job turned out great, just not happy with my body work! Since body filler can be applied over epoxy primer, can I just sand my paint (without going to bare metal) and apply epoxy, fill, and re-paint?
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
The concern here is the possibility of too much build (paint thickness).
This is one reason for shooting a sealer coat. You can spot problems before you spray the color.
Is this a single stage or BC/CC job?
This is one reason for shooting a sealer coat. You can spot problems before you spray the color.
Is this a single stage or BC/CC job?
H
Herkman
It's a BC/CC job, but I applied a white sealer. After priming the whole car with Featherfill G2, I did a complete guide coat and none of the defects showed up. Everything sanded smooth without any low spots
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I am assuming you are seeing waves or depressions in the now shiny paint job.
Did you block sand with a coarse grit the first round? Use a fairly long sanding block?
Did you block sand with a coarse grit the first round? Use a fairly long sanding block?
H
Herkman
Yes, I did and I am seeing waves
jlcustomz
evil painter
At this point I'd scuff sand the area & put a light coat of evercoat metal glaze filler or similar, then block with sharp paper & lightest pressure possible.
Are you just talking about a few areas?
Another possible thought here. Is new paint color sanded yet? Improper color sanding by cross hatching can make waves. If waves are minor enough & clear is thick enough, you may be able to improve on things carefully blocking the clear without completely cutting through.
Are you just talking about a few areas?
Another possible thought here. Is new paint color sanded yet? Improper color sanding by cross hatching can make waves. If waves are minor enough & clear is thick enough, you may be able to improve on things carefully blocking the clear without completely cutting through.