Euro 2020

When I started using Spi clears. 1st used Euro2020 with fast and played with reducer. Couple years later tried 2100 Production.
Just bought some more Euro 2020 again after not using it for a couple years. 4:1:1 with normal act.
For some reason I spray and have better results with 2100 prod. clear and medium activator vs the Euro 2020. Not sure why? I'll keep playing with the 2020 as the weather warms up, but have a feeling I'll be buying and using 2100 prod clear after the 2020 is gone instead.
I do love universal and use it 75% of the time. But like the option of a clear that gets harder quicker for some collision jobs.
Any thoughts from someone who uses both.(2020 vs 2100)
 
4:1:1.5 is the thinnest. Iwata w400lv 1.4, Iwata lph400 1.4, Sagola 4500 extreme 1.3xl. ,Tekna 1.3
I'm puzzled, should be able to get a combo for 2020 that matches 2100 with medium activator.
Maybe need to go back to fast activator , and play with reducers like when I first started with it years ago.
I tried & switched to the 2100 after 2 or 3 years with 2020, and stuck with it because I got better/more consistent results.
Not to say I didn't get some nice jobs out with 2020, but 2100 was easier.
In 1 of these threads(awhile back) someone mentioned using either 0-Voc reducer or the low Voc activator from 5100 in the Euro2020 , I think???
 
What issues you have with 2020 the way it lays down?.....because even on 4:1:2 will have some orange peel thats normal with euro.
never try the production is less solid/thinner clear? where you can avoid runs ect.
 
If you are spraying Euro correctly it will have almost zero peel. Just like any clear it's dependent on your skill level, gun, and settings and how you mix it.
4:1:1 and the right gun settings and application technique will lay down very well. Refer to my first post in this thread, both those vehicles were sprayed in 100+ degree conditions and almost no peel, no die back, no buffing. The Orange Jeep was my first time spraying Euro. It is a very nice clear for collision work and I find it very easy to spray. One thing that is different from most clears used in collision work is how nicely Euro flows out after you spray your last coat. Turn off the fan as soon as all the overspray is exhausted like Barry says, and it will flow a little and lay down even slicker.

Tinman: Why are you using fast activator in it? Slow activator is what you want use. Slow reducer as well. It will lay down so much nicer and cures out nearly as quick. You really don't gain anything with fast or medium but you do lose out on how it sprays when you use a fast or medium reducer and activator. Unless you are turning out garbage that you deliver the same day you spray there is no need for the fast/medium. I only use slow reducer/slow activator year round for collision repair.
 
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Chris, when I 1st tried Spi it was Euro 2020. That's was the way it was recommended to try , "fast activator and use the reducer to control the speed you want for temp". I'm in Wisconsin and I believe it was January when I 1st used it. Temps got warmer I switched to normal. Never tried slow, as I figured that was for hot temps(southern states) and jobs like completes. Guess maybe I should try slow in 2020 , as now I use slow in Universal and in the coldest winter months cocktail slow & normal on smaller jobs.
 
I keep trying Euro, and can make it look good, but UC is just more bulletproof, imo. Euro seems a bit more sensitive to conditions, and reducer selection matters where it obviously doesn't with UC. My booth has more in common with a cave than a modern downdraft, which keeps me gravitating towards UC.
 
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Update....Well I screwed up. I use a gun mounted (IWATA) regulator on my clear gun and I do not on my base coat gun. I don't really look that closely, I grab the gun with the regulator on it, identifying it as my "clear gun". Well in haste after the last full tear down and cleaning, I put the regulator on the wrong gun so my first time spraying the Euro was with my SATA 4000 HVLP that I have set up for base. That was the issue.

I sprayed two repairs yesterday, one with the correct SATA 4000 RP and the other with my "pet" IWATA W-400. Both three coats and both absolutely beautiful. Mixed 4:1:1 maybe 1.25 on the reducer. The biggest thing was the way it looked today, after 15-16 hours there was no sign of pinching or shrinkage. I really like it. Still like UV but seamed a little less shrinkage with the Euro but could just be in my mind or the circumstances.

Do you guys that use it regularly, do you spray 2 or 3 coats? How many coats is too many? 3 coats was a lot slicker that the OE finish, way slicker.
 
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