Extra hardener

M

MaStuart

Anyone else end up with extra hardener with the one gallon epoxy kits. I use PPG cups to mix the epoxy in the proper ratio. When the part A is gone there has been hardener left. I have about a quart of hardener left after using 3 one gallon kits of epoxy. So what going on ? Are the PPG mixing cups graduated wrong or is there more than one gallon of hardener in the gallon can? When I used to use PPG DP40 it seemed like I was always short on hardener. Anyone else notice this?
 
yes...… after multiple two gallon kits I am now almost a gallon extra on the activator
 
Thanks Robert! I see I said one gallon kit. I should of said 2 gallon kits. I have been using the oldest up first and its building up when I open a fresh can.
 
At some point you can order extra epoxy, it has a longer shelf life than the activator, so it's better to have more epoxy than activator laying around.
 
Believe me I thought about it for a bit. I figured I had forgotten to mix something right before it dawned on me. It doesn't seem like much but it adds up.
 
Thanks everyone. Now I know. I have heard from other shop guys that they seem to be short when using some PPG products.
 
We have tested many different mixing cups but not tested any metal sticks as they just not used much anymore.
I use the mixing cups for spraying batches before packaging but have about a $1000 of chemical glass measuring cups for jell testing as they are 100% accurate.
 
Like everything else only use brand name mixing cups. Meaning not the various "el cheapo's" that are online. I have always used paint manufacturer labeled cups and have never had an issue. (PPG, Cromax, Sikkens etc) Also like anotheridiot said reading the line properly is important. Google "meniscus line" if you are unsure.
Mixing sticks are only accurate if you are using a metal can or other symmetrical cylinder. I've seen guys using mixing sticks in plastic mixing cups and just shook my head because of the shape of the cup. the mixing stick is automatically off.
 
Well, the nice thing about 1:1 is that is pretty foolproof. Now 4:1, you can get over or under activated in a hurry. I would bet you could be 5% off with epoxy and not have a serious problem.
 
I've checked a glass kitchen measuring cup. The first lines were way off. Got more accurate as it filled.
One way to check is with water & 1mL or 10mL ect syringe (no needle) depending on volume of test.
For simple ratios, just count. For conversion from mL to ounces, check online for calculator.
I never used a mixing cup. I only sprayed my 2 cars, made my own measuring cups from jars.
Put tape down the side, guess how much you'll need, fill smaller anything with water, dump it in & mark tape.
Dump another in & mark tape. You now have the perfect 1:1
I won't explain other ratios, ya'll get the point.

I love jars. Rinse with reducer & reuse. Also love having metal lid to (help) prevent disasters & fumes.
For small marine epoxy mixes i use 1mL syringes & toss them.
Box of 100 under $20. Buy individual at pharmacy.
 
The households mixing glass es is not accurate as we tested some.

Also, most products using the mixing cup will not hurt the performance.
Spi the way we have the oh/nco set up
Ten percent off would be fine, most other products from what I see 5% would be fine.

This is why chemical beakers are so expensive.
 
It can be broken down so far we may never mix paint again. Hell, getting disposable solo cups give you 1:1. a cup of paint, a cup of hardener and you never see lines.

The thing that got me was filling by weight, which almost says maybe mixing to weight is the only precise way, but the only way this ends up working out that does not drive people nuts getting free product is to send less hardener.

They mix paint colors, they do it by weight, 1:1 by weight is usually different than volume since both parts do not usually weigh the same. I know some paints I use is 5:1 by volume or 5.897 to 1 if mixing by weight.

What is the "right" way?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top