Festool 497525 Denib Tool?

cmfisher4

cmfisher4

Promoted Users
I went down the YouTube rabbit hole last night looking at ways to denib and remove runs (I had a couple, contrary to what I originally thought). I'm so happy with the way that the clear went down that I'd really love to pinpoint the nibs and the runs, then pick up with buffing. I came across the Festool 497525 denib tool. The thing isn't cheap, at $76, but is seems pretty effective at removing nibs and runs in a very controlled manner, which is a concern for me when another option is to bring a razor blade to bear on it.

Just curious if anyone has any experience with this tool (or maybe something similar).

Thanks,
Chris
 
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Thanks, Shine. I have seen the blocks and they are only $15 or so. I do intend to wait a while to do anything, given the essentially unlimited cut & buff window of the UC (as I understand, anyway) so hopefully that will take care of the cure time for the sags. I haven't had the car in the sun at all, either, and probably won't for a while. I'm in the reassembly phase to get it to parking-lot driveable (and testable) condition so that I can fix any mechanical issues, then finish up the painting and interior-type work over the winter.

Thanks,
Chris
 
Something else to keep in mind, i blocked out a couple thick runs and the rest of panel perfect, buffed, and a few weeks later the run appeared low & it's visable. Like Shine said, don't perfect it same day.
 
I must say the Festool looks very impressive, cuts much quicker than the nib file, and seems less risky. If the nib file isn't held right, it can tip and gouge.
 
I've got several festool tools & accessories at work. They make great true shop grade stuff, but the german price exchange alone makes it all overpriced unless you use the hell out of it. If I did enough spraying to justify the price of the tool, I'd still spend more effort on prevention.
Personally I wouldn't spend the money on it. Doesn't remove the skill factor & rushing will leave future shrinkage. I'd go with the work a sag or run down just a little at a time method , as approx. 10 coats of clear has 10 coats of trapped solvents to evaporate & shrink.
Another thought here, nibs are basically files. Us fab people could cut off a section of a fine file, taper grind the edges down a little to make it safer & carefully use it to knock the worst down in stages, them switch to a stiff block & paper at least a day later if possible..
 
Well, this is the first and only paint job that I've done and maybe will ever do. So, if it means the difference between someone who has no experience doing this having a better chance of success by using a well-designed tool as opposed to potentially burning through and having to recoat again (and probably having to denib and de-run again anyway), I'll spend the $76.
That being said, I appreciate everyone's input and the back and forth, so I can make the most informed decision. Then, I have no one else to blame when I mess it up other than myself :p

Thanks,
Chris
 
tape each end of a razor blade and go. screw paying 70 bucks for a thick razor blade . denib files work good on trash and can cut a sag down some. better idea is to keep a dagger brush handy . if you see a run dip the brush in some reducer and gently pull the excess out.
fancy tools usually end up in the back of the shelf where they belong ( i have several ) and some edited video is the last thing i want to go by . remember the amazing dustless blasting video ? one coat of duplicolor on a bare metal car .

if you go cutting like he is on a fresh run your going to pull a chunk out of it that cant be fixed .
 
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Thanks, Shine. Sorry to beat the horse, but when you say tape each end of the razor, are you saying that just to keep the edges from inadvertently gouging the surface or to shrink up the exposed blade to give a smaller contact area (and therefore minimizing the potential damage)?

It's been a week since I laid down the clear, but I'll scuff the sag spot to help it relieve some solvent. I don't intend to fix it for a few more weeks yet, probably.

I do remember reading you (or in a discussion you were a part of) mentioning having a brush ready to suck up excess. Believe it or not, I did...but I didn't see it until I was all done and came back the next day (part of my issues with having a poor excuse for a paint booth and proper lighting). And, even now, I've got to find it by feel and then adjust my position to show it in the light. Hopefully that means a bit easier of a repair.

Thanks so much,
Chris
 
just to keep the ends off the paint. a blade will do exactly what that 70 dollar toy will. if you grind the corners off a blade no need for tape .
 
Like Shine says a good new and sharp razor blade will do the same thing. Just make sure it is cured out enough to shave and not gouge. Use it 2 handed (thumb and forefinger of each hand) you have a lot of control that way and can easily shave it away. Tape the edges or grind /cut edges of the blade if you are worried about gouging. Then spend the remaining $75.95 on your Significant Other. ;)
 
Ha! That would be a great idea, thanks Chris.

Thanks for the video, chevman. That's the first one I found on it last night.

Chris
 
I have also bought a vixon file blade and cut it into 1 1/2" lengths with a cut off tool. Wrap the ends with 1/4" tape and plane the sag off removing a layer of tape as needed. Granted it is a home made denib file but one file will make 10 denib tools and you will never have to worry about where you left it or it getting dull. As with the razor blade, you can "soften" the edges so it won't gouge.

John
 
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