'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
jwd;21477 said:
Thanks for keeping us updated on your test panel results. I have always sanded with 400 prior to sealer but then I wet sand the sealer with 600 before going to base.
Thanks for keeping us updated on your test panel results. I have always sanded with 400 prior to sealer but then I wet sand the sealer with 600 before going to base.
B
Bondoskimmer
chevman;21399 said:
Half empty or half full...LOL!!
If something is mixed 1:1:1 it is all equal parts.
10 oz epoxy, 10 oz activator, 10 oz reducer.
I agree on the 50% part of the combined first two (it would be 10oz reducer) but guys I don't get the 33% figure other than times three rounds to 100% RTS. 100% is what you have after every final ready to spray mixture. 33 percent of each would be all equal so it cancels out any three part mixture not 1:1:1.....the 33% stuff is confusing on the mixing table so why bring it up?
H
Hotbo
Might i ask why some Sand Dry?
i was taught and have always Wet sanded all my Blocking coats up to Sealer.
i have tried Dry sanding(blocking ect)and have found it to not only be very nasty but waste Paper.
i have never had any luck with going any less than 360 on things Before any kind of sealer.
these days i mostly end everything in 600.as i do Production work and very few are solid colors.
explain Travis
i was taught and have always Wet sanded all my Blocking coats up to Sealer.
i have tried Dry sanding(blocking ect)and have found it to not only be very nasty but waste Paper.
i have never had any luck with going any less than 360 on things Before any kind of sealer.
these days i mostly end everything in 600.as i do Production work and very few are solid colors.
explain Travis
B
Bondoskimmer
That's ok chev. I am no rocket scientist but I try to get my mixes as accurate as possible. LOL! gooday!
P
PatG
jwd;21477 said:
Two questions
First, if you are reducing epoxy by 20%, then that would be 4 ounces of reducer for 20 ounces of mixed epoxy, right?
Second, is dry sanding your poly or urethane primer to 320, shooting with this reduced epoxy, and then wet sanding (after one day cure) using 600 a good way to go? My goal is to have a nice, scratch-free, new BC/CC solid-color (white) paint job on my Triumph. I am nearly done with body work and hope to paint over the long July 4th weekend. My panels have been filled, blocked, epoxy primed, and then coated with 3 coats of Featherfill. I just need to do final blocking to my final grit (dry, cuz Featherfill is polyester primer), epoxy seal (primary for adhesion, not really for color uniformity), and shoot with PPG DBU and SPI Univ Clear.
Don't know if I need to wet sand after sealer or if should just wait an hour and go right to base coat. Thanks for all the help.
Pat
B
Bob Hollinshead
If it's white finish sand with 320, seal it, denib it the next day if necessary and paint it. Don't waste your time going to 600 grit-there's really no need on solid colors. Also no need to sand the sealer coat of epoxy unless it goes on rough or have runs or dirt to remove.
J
jwd
PatG;21530 said:
That is correct.
Jim
T
TX79Z28
to bring back this thread: I read all the posts, but I have a question. I am painting my Camaro white (solid, no metallic), and planning on using epoxy 1:1:1 as sealer. My question: Although not the standard practice, other than time and effort, is there ANY disadvantage to blocking the 2K with 600 wet before the sealer?
I understand that most people feel it's OK to take to 320 and shoot the sealer. I am not disputing the validity of that, just wondering if it would hurt anything as far as adhesion to take it to 600 instead?
I understand that most people feel it's OK to take to 320 and shoot the sealer. I am not disputing the validity of that, just wondering if it would hurt anything as far as adhesion to take it to 600 instead?
B
Bob Hollinshead
600 is good!
P
PatG
By the way, I did finish painting my TR3, include cut and buff. Here's a couple photos. I'll circle back with a post regarding all that I learned. It came out great, except for the parts that aren't so great. I'll post later with details.
Pat
Pat
C
Charlie D
Is everyone talking about P-320 and P-400? My vo tech teacher recommends 400 grit. I just found out tonight that there is a CAMI 400 grit which is equivalent to a P-800. I could not find any of the PSA rolls in P-800 so I assume this thread is referring to the P-400 which is easily found.
Charlie D.
Charlie D.
B
Bob Hollinshead
Cami is pretty much long gone unless you find some old stock
G
GLHX
until reading this thread. I assumed the scratches would be gone when sealing after 320.
And I don't argue with the validity of that.
The op was glad he went to 600 though. I had no idea sealer would even adhere to 600 because generally the epoxy itself is stated to be top coated over 180 without reducer.
I didn't realize reducer makes that much difference.
Now that I know...when I think about it. Epoxy is stickier than base coat in sealer form......it is as thin as base coat. It's even described as the first base coat. If base coat with adhere to 600. Epoxy will definitely adhere to it in thinned out form
That being said it makes sense that it would adhere to 600 grit scratches. With the little extra effort it takes to go to 600 I think I'm going to go that route just to be safe. I'm painting solid black and I don't want to see scratches.
With being new to this level of painting. I'm learning what you don't know can cost you big
And I don't argue with the validity of that.
The op was glad he went to 600 though. I had no idea sealer would even adhere to 600 because generally the epoxy itself is stated to be top coated over 180 without reducer.
I didn't realize reducer makes that much difference.
Now that I know...when I think about it. Epoxy is stickier than base coat in sealer form......it is as thin as base coat. It's even described as the first base coat. If base coat with adhere to 600. Epoxy will definitely adhere to it in thinned out form
That being said it makes sense that it would adhere to 600 grit scratches. With the little extra effort it takes to go to 600 I think I'm going to go that route just to be safe. I'm painting solid black and I don't want to see scratches.
With being new to this level of painting. I'm learning what you don't know can cost you big
B
Bob Hollinshead
With solid colors you can get away with coarser grits, even if you spray your base and see scratches showing through they will disappear once the clear is on. Metallics and pearls highlight texture irregularities because they reflect light and they'll do this at different angles over uneven surfaces (scratches). Hope that makes sense. You can do yourself a simple test panel, sand one area with 220, one with 320, one with 400, 600... seal it and you'll see the scratches show through the sealer on the coarser grits, apply black basecoat and they'll still be showing on the coarser grits, apply 2-3 coats of clear and they will all disappear until the clear cures up and shrinks and then you'll likely see scratches showing up in the 220 grit area. Do the same test with a metallic or pearl and scratches will be showing down at the level of the basecoat forever on any surfaces that weren't smooth when the base went on.
G
GLHX
I see also talk of wet sanding the sealer or even wet sanding the high build before base coating with metallics.
I was under the impression that wet sanding put in deeper scratches than dry because it's cleaner and stays sharper
Wouldn't wet sanding with 600 put a 400g finish on it and show the scratches?
I was under the impression that wet sanding put in deeper scratches than dry because it's cleaner and stays sharper
Wouldn't wet sanding with 600 put a 400g finish on it and show the scratches?
B
Bob Hollinshead
no worry with 600 grit