First Time SPI User

[Renew AP]

I have been a hobbyist painter for over 40 years using Sherwin, HOK, Nason and Standox products, I have and use mainly Standox base. I own a local parts and body shop supply business and just took on the SPI products a few weeks ago at the request of several shops that were getting it shipped to them.

I finally was able to spray the 4000 universal clear on a small spoiler I am refinishing for a friend. I used a Iwata LPH400 with 1.3 tip (against SPI recommendation) but had no issues at all. It laid down like glass and I am very impressed with the results. I sprayed 4 coats of clear with 1/2 hour between coats per SPI's 3+ coat instructions. No dirt, no solvent pop, no runs, just one stray Siberian Husky hair after the last coat. I wasn't even going to sand and buff until the hair. I always shoot close and slow with long wait between coats, so the 4000 was very easy to adjust to. I would say it compares to the Standox HS clear the closest but at almost half the price.

I am glad I finally was ably to use some so I can start to speak from experience instead of reading instructions from the tech sheet when talking to customers about SPI.

 

[Barry]

Thanks for the update, the Iwata lph is one of the guns with a 1.3 that will spray the spi very well.

 

[Renew AP]

Thanks Barry, Most of my customers are using SATA 5000 guns with the 1.3 (SATA DanAm is just an hour from here) , but a few are using the same Iwata set-up that I had, so I wanted to find out exactly how it would spray. I have a couple of Mustang bumper covers to do tomorrow, so I learn a little more then.

 

[Barry]

The 5000 is also an excellent gun to use a1.3 in.

 

[El Toro]

To Renew...........Welcome and to your collision customers have them look at the EURO clear also.

 

[Renew AP]

That is what I'm recommending to the body shops, but I deal with dirt floor tractor painters, all the way up to concourse show car builders, so I need to learn all the products.

I just painted a Harley tank with the 4000, perfect except for another Husky hair, I think I need to shave him bald. Thanks

 

[RustyJ]

I'm also a fairly new user of SPI products but not to bodywork and paint. So far I've used the oxide red and black epoxy primer and WGR. Excellent and durable products. I plan on using Universal clear over Automotive Art base on my 66 Mustang if they can mix Tahoe Turquoise.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I'm also a fairly new user of SPI products but not to bodywork and paint. So far I've used the oxide red and black epoxy primer and WGR. Excellent and durable products. I plan on using Universal clear over Automotive Art base on my 66 Mustang if they can mix Tahoe Turquoise.

Chad was able to mix a couple of difficult colors for me recently so I am sure he will get it done if you are ordering through him.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

For those new to SPI, I would follow Barry's recommendations for production shops as I only do restoration work.
My experience with these products is based on over a decade of use (starting back in the MS clear days).

SPI epoxy is the best epoxy I have used.
Their build primers are excellent as well.
I have a fondness for the Euro Clear due to its durability and scratch resistance.
The Universal Clear is, in my opinion, the best for show cars as it has great depth and is easy to buff to perfection.

I have experimented with other products over the years but always come back to SPI. The customer service is great, delivery right to my door and Barry is just a phone call away - though I haven't needed to bother him in a very long time.