Fisheye issues first coat of single stage.

Toolin

Promoted Users
Okay, my intent was to block and topcoat the rear deck lid. Because the 24-hour unreduced cured epoxy was loading up the paper I decided to scuff the underside and spray single stage on that. That side was epoxy reduced 25% at 48 hours. I wiped with 700 and tacked it with a Datco surgical blue tack rag. I think that is where the problem lies. Ordinarily I completely unfold it and allow it to dry out for 20 minutes or so before re-folding it. This time I unfolded it maybe halfway and immediately refolded it. After that I rested in on the panel for maybe a minute to retrieve the hose and a blow gun to proceed. That is exactly the same area where the fisheyes appeared. Nowhere else. Has anyone had fish eye issues carelessly using a quality tack rag.

IMG_3935.JPG
 
Tack rags have a form of wax on them I've heard. Maybe someone else will chime in with more information.
 
It could be from tack rag, but we will never really know.
The positive part is it is heavy enough there that after it sets a few days, 1500 wet will
Smooth it out and buff with ease.
I have done worse, and by the way that, SS looks like it is laid out very nicely.
 
It appears to have a lot of paint in real life also. I used 13 Oz mixed RTS to put on two coats. I'm not sure I went about spraying it properly because of all of the vertical surfaces on the bracing. The way I went about it was with the gun about 30 degrees from perpendicular to the panel spraying from all four sides. How would one go about something such as this properly.

IMG_3942.JPG
 
What He said.
Tack rags should be relabeled because their anything BUT a RAG. Last thing you want to be doing with one is Wiping down with it like your removing G&WR.
More like DUST Cloth.
The other cause is from your Air supply. Reason I have Always used the small screw on 'bulb' filters on Everything I use pointing at my work.Not the desiccant but paper style,The DeVilbliss Black one's are my choice.Last line of defense for whatever may be coming thru. Desiccant is at the Comp and another at my gun hose hookup. I use Refrigeration 5/8" flair inline driers rated @ 30 c.i.at the hookup which my piping is Copper tubing and a quick swap out.
 
It appears to have a lot of paint in real life also. I used 13 Oz mixed RTS to put on two coats. I'm not sure I went about spraying it properly because of all of the vertical surfaces on the bracing. The way I went about it was with the gun about 30 degrees from perpendicular to the panel spraying from all four sides. How would one go about something such as this properly.

View attachment 21884

Regarding spraying on the vertical braces. Since we know that spraying like you did at a 30* angle causes paint to be applied heavier on one side of the fan. This is what I would do.

I would make the spray fan smaller, much smaller, almost coned shape, and adjust the fluid knob accordingly so it doesn't go on to heavy and run. Now you can use that 30* angle when spraying.

Since you now know what settings to use when spraying the flat surface, you just need to dail in the coned shape fan pattern on your wall masking paper first.

Spray the vertical braces first, then readjust your fan and fluid to to spray the entire flat surface.

Hood looks darn good if this is your first time spraying SS.
 
Last edited:
MikeK, initially I did not think the air supply was a possibility. Prior to wiping and painting I had drained the tank and the water trap right after the aftercooler. After I notice the fisheyes I checked the drop and separator on the wall. Both were empty as usual. Then I got to thinking after reading your post. I remember after wiping with 700. I blew the panel off with the regulator set at 120 PSI. Maybe then some oil made it past the separator?

MJM, Regarding your advice spraying the braces. I will give that a try on the hood and other places like the undercarriage.

Shine, I do tend be a bit more aggressive with a tack cloth on edges, seams and other areas that can harbor dust. I will be more gentle going forward.

Thanks to everyone for your input.
 
Spraying with a narrow fan can be tricky because you can’t easily control the overlap imho. I rarely spray with a narrow fan and certainly never on a large panel like a hood.

Don
Second what Don says.

Toolin, you did a good job with minimal issues on those parts. Being perfect out of the box is a fools errand. You are doing well.

Regarding braces and such on uneven surfaces it is really very simple. Hood for example, decide which direction you are spraying and simply angle the gun head so its parrallel/square to the surface you are spraying. It would be easier to show you than trying to put it into words. You just chase/follow the overlap so to speak. Practice making dry passes keeping the gun parallel and square to the surface.

With your tack you can ball it or loosely fold it after opening it. I fold it so I have fresh surfaces as I tack. Let it glide across the surface little to no pressure with your hand. You can also get low tack tack cloths that are specifically designed for tacking before paint. Gerson Blue, Surgical Blue are two that work well.
 
Last edited:
When I was at Kindigit they turned me on to some tack cloths made by Sikkens. They are nice because they don’t seem to leave any kind of residue. Hard to find but I have tracked them down with a Google search.

Don
 
Second what Don says.

Toolin, you did a good job with minimal issues on those parts. Being perfect out of the box is a fools errand. You are doing well.

Regarding braces and such on uneven surfaces it is really very simple. Hood for example, decide which direction you are spraying and simply angle the gun head so its parrallel/square to the surface you are spraying. It would be easier to show you than trying to put it into words. You just chase/follow the overlap so to speak. Practice making dry passes keeping the gun parallel and square to the surface.

With your tack you can ball it or loosely fold it after opening it. I fold it so I have fresh surfaces as I tack. Let it glide across the surface little to no pressure with your hand. You can also get low tack tack cloths that are specifically designed for tacking before paint. Gerson Blue, Surgical Blue are two that work well.
I think I understand what you're saying about turning the gun. You would have the same effect if you where to turn the air cap so the horns are parallel. That is what I like the most about the Devibliss DeKups. You can spray in any position once you purge the air from the cup.

Surgical blue is what I use.
IMG_3945.JPG
 
Last edited:
When I was at Kindigit they turned me on to some tack cloths made by Sikkens. They are nice because they don’t seem to leave any kind of residue. Hard to find but I have tracked them down with a Google search.
You toured Kindigit? I think they do high quality restorations. Better than the rest of the shows. I also think Graveyard Carz is a quality shop. They seem to knock out a lot of projects. The guy that runs it is a bit odd.
 
The only Car Show that I can watch is Chasing Classic Cars. That show is pretty good.
I can't get past Kindigs stupid haircut and the facial hair. :)
Graveyard Cars was pretty good the first season but to me it's like so many of the car shows in that they reek of self promotion.
American Hot Rod was good. It was enlightening what a tool Boyd could be.
 
Back
Top