Flatten interior paint or the clear ?

Mitch

Promoted Users
Trying to get ahead of the game and bought Limco single stage for the interior and jamming on my Camaro. I plan to use an SPI clear and would like advise on if I should flatten the paint or clear to the approximate 60% gloss interior step.
Also, which clear is easiest to use for a beginner ?
I do plan to get R-M base coat, as it is said to be the closest match to the original GM color.
Thanks !!
Pics of today's project. Second application on the interior side panels, first on the rear/extension panel over edp and in the seal gutter. I used a DeVilbiss touch up gun with 7 oz's and ran a little short at the top of the extension panel and it didn't lay down as smooth as it should be. It will get another coat when we do the roof, quarters and tail panel next week anyway.
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I was just reading more on the clears and it seems the Universal would be the best one. The high solids seems to make paint more forgiving of a heavy coat and not sag/run.
 
I'm trying to figure out what to paint my interior with,

I pained the doors with PPG DBI not activated. Sheen was perfect. BUT not activated DBI doesn't seem to be durable. It's on the same tech sheet as DBC (basecoat). I want something more durable for the interior.

I have been advised that activating the DBI will make it more durable (which I want) but shinier,I don't want that.

Spoke to a friend that runs the local restoration shop. He advised I use premixed clear already "flattened" to the correct sheen over the DBI.

Based on the problems I had flattening single stage for my engine compartment, I tend to agree.
 
Trying to get ahead of the game and bought Limco single stage for the interior and jamming on my Camaro. I plan to use an SPI clear and would like advise on if I should flatten the paint or clear to the approximate 60% gloss interior step.
Also, which clear is easiest to use for a beginner ?
I do plan to get R-M base coat, as it is said to be the closest match to the original GM color.
Thanks !!
Pics of today's project. Second application on the interior side panels, first on the rear/extension panel over edp and in the seal gutter. I used a DeVilbiss touch up gun with 7 oz's and ran a little short at the top of the extension panel and it didn't lay down as smooth as it should be. It will get another coat when we do the roof, quarters and tail panel next week anyway.
DSC00124.JPG

DSC00125.JPG

DSC00126.JPG

DSC00127.JPG
The easiest would be use a clear already flattened ... jmo
 
Using an already flattened clear is the best choice if you don't have any experience flattening clear. If you want to try it, we just covered a lot of this in this thread.
 
basf's method for painting interior parts is to use 10% catalyst in their base (diamont), spray it and thats it. no clear required. i have done it on my last truck and many other parts over the years and has held up great.
 
basf's method for painting interior parts is to use 10% catalyst in their base (diamont), spray it and thats it. no clear required. i have done it on my last truck and many other parts over the years and has held up great.
What level of shine do you end up with? I know that’s hard to quantify.
 
Well most basecoats will have some amount of flattener added to the formula as flop controller so it depends on the formula you mix. Now with that said to match the interior of my 05 toyota it was the diamont base with no flop controller added. It was dead on.
 
basf's method for painting interior parts is to use 10% catalyst in their base (diamont), spray it and thats it. no clear required. i have done it on my last truck and many other parts over the years and has held up great.
Sorry for the long delay, I haven't been able to get on the site for a week. Called and got something fixed today.
I already bought the single stage with clear in it. Not really wanting to buy a different product, but the flattener seems to be as expensive as the base.
 
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