I started a new thread on my project cause the other one was getting too long. Anyway,I need some advice on my project. I have been practicing shooting the base on a junk fender. I am getting use on adjusting the gun settings for the base that I will be spraying on my truck. My biggest concern is the roof and the hood,since they are harder to reach. I need to know from you experienced guys if i can do the following. I Was going to remove the hood to paint seperately but decided to leave it on. This is what I am going to try and do.I want to mask off the roof and the hood and spray those 2 with 2 coats each. Than, come back next day and spray the rest of the truck. Now,say that I spray the roof and hood and after the second coat,should I go ahead and shoot the clear after the base flash time,say 30 minutes or can I wait till next day and spray the clear? If I can wait till the next day to shoot the clear,than I will do that and wait one more day to shoot the base on the rest of the panels. I need some help and advice please. I will follow all your recommendations. If I have to shoot the complete truck at the same time,than I need to take more time so that I have all my equipment ready. Thanks to all.
Getting Ready to spray base coat.
- Thread starter Mando
- Start date
SpencerW
Promoted Users
Are you going to apply sealer before basecoat? I normally apply 2-3 coats of base coat depending on color.
I would spray complete vehicle at the same time if possible. If you get any dirt nibs in your basecoat you can always light scuff them with 1000 grit foam sanding pad. Make sure to apply clearcoat within 24hr's or you will have to scuff vehicle and re-apply basecoat.
I would spray complete vehicle at the same time if possible. If you get any dirt nibs in your basecoat you can always light scuff them with 1000 grit foam sanding pad. Make sure to apply clearcoat within 24hr's or you will have to scuff vehicle and re-apply basecoat.
Thanks Spencer for your help. No,no sealer.I did apply epoxy primer first and than a 2K urethane primer.Right now,I have it all sanded down to 600 grit. The color of the paint is a Quasar Light blue metallic. Do you think 2 coats will be enough? After the first coat,should i wait about 20 minutes for flash time? So you think I should go ahead and do the complete truck in one shot. The reason I wanted to do the roof and the hood first was because I am having a hard time figuring out how to reach the roof. How are you guys able to reach the roof besides using a ladder? Thank you very much for your help with my project.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
No. What brand of base is it?
What does the TDS of the basecoat say? You can find the TDS very easily online. Google the name of the base, example "PPG DBC" and "TDS". Read it several times as it will give you a lot of valuable info.
Perfectly fine to mask off the roof and do it separate. If you do so do the roof first and then the rest of the truck. Easier to mask the roof rather than the rest of the vehicle. The hood you should be able to reach. Wide boards and some 5 gallon metal cans work well in pinch. Easier if you setup something on both sides so you don't have to move everything from side to side. You can also purchase something called "van stands". They are expensive though.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
I would add that if you decide to mask off, you should give the clear several days of drytime before you mask it. Don't leave it on any longer than absolutely neccessary. On and off.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
You mean coat by coat correct? Don't want to confuse the OP.
Thanks guys for your valuable information. I will take your advice and hope that I can do a decent job on my first try. One more question? If I have a run on my first coat,do I keep going onto my second coat after its flash time or do I stop after the flash time, sand the run with say 1000 or 1200 grit paper and than shoot the second coat. I want to make sure I am prepared for the unexpected or should I say ( Expected).
Chris,I will do a google search on my paint for its data sheet and see what is says about how to spray the base.Thanks
Chris,I will do a google search on my paint for its data sheet and see what is says about how to spray the base.Thanks
If you get a run on your first coat of base, stop and fix it. Base should not be sprayed wet enough to run. If you get a run in the first coat of clear, let it flash, then keep going.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
All good advice. I shoot a minimum of 3 coats of base to ensure I have full coverage and true color.
I used the ladder on each side method to paint this truck. Also painted the whole thing at the same time. This is 3 coats of Gunmetal Gray base.
Followed by three coats of clear:
Get your gun set up on paper first. Then while spraying try to be consistent in distance, speed and overlap. Don't be in a hurry, just a controlled pace.
I used the ladder on each side method to paint this truck. Also painted the whole thing at the same time. This is 3 coats of Gunmetal Gray base.
Followed by three coats of clear:
Get your gun set up on paper first. Then while spraying try to be consistent in distance, speed and overlap. Don't be in a hurry, just a controlled pace.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
I have a couple of these, one for each side of the booth. They roll but lock when you step on them. Adjustable height and you get a few feet of travel. Everything made by Steck is currently unobtanium unfortunately.
Don
Steck Pro Step - 20350
Heavy duty 500 lb capacity Foam bumpers protect vehicle finish Spring loaded retractable wheels, push it with one foot Height adjustment from 6.5″ to 22.5″
www.autobodytoolmart.com
Don
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Another option that helps is to deflate the tires to lower the truck some.
In stock at ToolTopia.
I have a couple of these, one for each side of the booth. They roll but lock when you step on them. Adjustable height and you get a few feet of travel. Everything made by Steck is currently unobtanium unfortunately.
Steck Pro Step - 20350
Heavy duty 500 lb capacity Foam bumpers protect vehicle finish Spring loaded retractable wheels, push it with one foot Height adjustment from 6.5″ to 22.5″www.autobodytoolmart.com
Don
In stock at ToolTopia.
Thanks to all for your help.All great tips and idea's. Glad that I joined this group and who knows,maybe within time I will be able to at least help somebody with their project. I really like doing this and I've heard that if you like your work,you will eventually be good at it.
BoostedOne
New Member
Is there some kind of trim or other abrupt feature between your roof and the pillars?
Reason I ask is blending clear is challenging. If it is a smooth transition(such as the camaro below) and you base and clear the roof then come back and base and clear the rest, just about anything you do where the two come together between the roof and pillars will be a visible transition.
Typically when you clear a panel, you have to go all the way to the edge, or up to a point where there is a moulding or something that you can mask up to. So like on the Camaro below, if you wanted to shoot a spot on the quarter panel, when you go to clear you'd have to clear both quarter panels, both C pillars, the roof and the a pillars since there are no "break" between any of those panels. There are ways to blend the clear but most if not all of them do not have the longevity of clearing the whole panel. And none of them would probably be successful for a first timer.
Reason I ask is blending clear is challenging. If it is a smooth transition(such as the camaro below) and you base and clear the roof then come back and base and clear the rest, just about anything you do where the two come together between the roof and pillars will be a visible transition.
Typically when you clear a panel, you have to go all the way to the edge, or up to a point where there is a moulding or something that you can mask up to. So like on the Camaro below, if you wanted to shoot a spot on the quarter panel, when you go to clear you'd have to clear both quarter panels, both C pillars, the roof and the a pillars since there are no "break" between any of those panels. There are ways to blend the clear but most if not all of them do not have the longevity of clearing the whole panel. And none of them would probably be successful for a first timer.
BoostedOne
New Member
It was mentioned you could put a plank on some buckets to get you up higher. If it would make you feel more confident, you can pick these up at Home Depot. I think they are on sale now. I forget what they cost, but they are very stable. Put one on each side and you can walk the entire roof no problem just like you are on the floor, then slide it out of the way.
Im short so I need stuff like this
Im short so I need stuff like this
Good Morning to all. Thank you Boostedone for posting a picture of this platform. I did see it at home depot and lowes. Its normal price is $ 126.00 but right now its for $98.00 dollars.I think its a good buy and definitely help me. its adjustable up to 30 inches high.That should help me reach the roof of my truck pretty good. Question? On the gun that I have, I shot the high build primer with a 2.0 tip. For the base,I have a 1.4 tip that I am going to use.Is this 1.4 tip good enough to shoot the clear or do I need to buy a different nozzle and needle? Just wondering. Once I know that I can really paint my own cars, I think I will buy me a good quality spray gun like maybe an Iwata or a Devilbiss GTi pro or some thing like that. I really like classic cars and trucks and later on I would like to get me a good project vehicle to restore. I need to stay busy so that my bones don't get brittle and keep me from doing things.