Getting Ready to spray base coat.
- Thread starter Mando
- Start date
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
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Automotive Refinishing | United States | Southern Polyurethanes
Southern Polyurethanes is a manufacturer of automotive coatings for the restoration, repair and custom markets. Epoxy Primers, Clear coats, Primers, Basecoat, single stage and more.
www.southernpolyurethanes.com
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
If a drop coat works well for you AAE, that's great. Keep doing what you have success with. When it's recommended to a novice is where I have an issue with it. Because the majority of the time a noobie will screw it up. In a booth environment even with basecoats where it's recommended like Standox, the base doesn't stay open long enough to do it. That's why I never did it and have found that irregardless of what a particular system recommends, the blender technique just works much better, is easier and relatively foolproof. Standox uses a blender and recommends using it when doing a drop coat. Easier just to spray one more coat reduced with the blender over the whole repair area and extend out. That's what I have done and not to brag on myself but I have always been able to do perfect undetectable blends that way. Lots of guys I worked with couldn't especially on the hard colors. When I showed them how I did it, they got much better blending.
All of what I'm referreing to is in the context of blending a color. If you are doing an overall it's really not neccesary unless it's to compensate for poor technique. Modern basecoats, even the silvers lay out and orient itself really well. Most of the time striping on an overall is because of lack of coverage.
AAE
Learner
I really like SPI intercoat. I was just pointing out that even the trusted brands recommend the process. I came across some Standox produced videos and the "head trainer" emphasized doing a drop coat. Like you said, do what works. Results are all that count.
I have a question about spraying base and clear. If I understand correctly,If I have an imperfection while shooting base,I need to stop,correct the problem, and than continue spraying,right? However,if I have a problem while spraying clear,I continue spraying the 2 or 3 coats and than after its all cured,say 4 to 5 days,I come back and correct the problem. Another question? When I spray the hood,do you guys start in the middle and work the gun back toward you or do you start at eighter side of the hood and go toward the middle. Trying to get all my notes right before I decide that I'm ready to spray the truck.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Also helps in your concentration at keeping the gun perpendicular to the surface.
If you have a cross draft booth, it helps to go "with the wind" while spraying. In other words, if the front of the vehicle is toward the fans, start there and work toward the rear of the vehicle. Keeps any dry spray from landing on your freshly painted surfaces.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Given the paint you are using I would shoot 3 coats and then take a good look at it. As for clear, if this is your first time doing a cut and buff, I would shoot 4 coats of clear.
It's difficult to advise a newbie on this because we have no idea how you are spraying the clear. I spray wet coats and 3 would be plenty but you may spray yours light to medium wet, hence it is better to have an extra coat on there in my opinion.
It's difficult to advise a newbie on this because we have no idea how you are spraying the clear. I spray wet coats and 3 would be plenty but you may spray yours light to medium wet, hence it is better to have an extra coat on there in my opinion.
I believe Chris answered correctly when he said no in post #4. 3 coats minimum, especially with that base.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Mando, you are getting some good advice here.
SPI clear is very forgiving in my limited experience. But you need some material to work with in cutting and buffing.
As others have said, 4 coats clear minimum. Don't be afraid to go 5 or 6 if you have the material, with proper flash time of course.
Ok, Thanks to all for your great advice. Since I am new to this,I don't want to spray the clear too wet cause I am afraid of having too many runs. I was thinking more of 3 medium coats. However,now that you guys explain all this to me,I think I will go with 4,maybe 5 coats. As for cutting and buffing, ( Correct me if I am wrong) I will start with 1000,go to 1500,and than 2500 wet sanding or color sanding. Of course I will be using a block to do all this. I will first start with a wool pad and than use the foam pad. Would this be enough? As Don mentioned here,I don't want to cut tru the base and make a mess out of it. One thing that worries me are the edges. Do you still use a block or do you just do it by hand? I would think that the edges would be the ones that will burn tru if you sand to much. Once I get the truck all painted,I will post a picture of it ( Only if it looks decent). MY son said that if the truck comes out looking pretty decent,he will buy me a Iwata or a Devilbiss Prolite gun. So,I better try my best if I expect a new gun. Ha ha.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Take it one step at a time. There are lots of posts on this site dealing with the cut and buff process. You can do a search when the time comes and see the many different products and steps that guys use to get great results.
Stay focused on your basecoat for now, then move to your clear coat. You will have plenty of time to research the Cut and Buff process while the clear coat cures.
Stay focused on your basecoat for now, then move to your clear coat. You will have plenty of time to research the Cut and Buff process while the clear coat cures.
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
Tape your edges with blue tape while sanding to prevent sand throughs. Shine taught me that many years ago…
Don
Thanks guys. You are correct 68 coronet about me focusing on the base and clear coat first. I think I will wait till after the first of the year to tackle this project since I may have some of my kids coming over for the new year.Want to put all my concentration on my truck. Thanks Don for mentioning taping the edges when its time for cut and buff.
I thought I had my truck ready for base after doing the final wet sanding the primer with 600. The panels are all nice and smooth to the touch. However,we had some sunshine yesterday ( its been mostly cloudy for a few days) and when I moved the truck back out of my shop to let the sun hit it,I noticed some orange peel on the hood. Only a few spots. I see it but when I put my gloved hand to it,its smooth. Will the base cover this or will it show on the base. If it needs corrected,I need to do it now,if you guys say that base will cover it,I will leave it alone. Another question is I am thinking about getting a gun budd light. I don't have a spray booth,just a work shop 18X24 and I have fluorescent 8ft lights inside. I don't think I need them for my base but maybe when spraying the clear,since I hear it gets pretty foggy when spraying it. What do you experts think about this? As usual,thanks to all for the help you give me on my learning project.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
I bought a gun Budd light and tried it. Didn't like it. Best I can describe is that the light was too focused on too small of an area.
I ended up getting some LED shop lite strips from Home Depot.
They are so lightweight they can be stuck on the wall with 3M double-sided tape.
I put some on the wall and just laid some on the floor.
Ended up with good overlapping light and no shadows as I moved around.
You can see some of them in this pic. Have 6 total.
As for the question about peel in the primer, I've learned "if there is any doubt, work it out."
It will never be easier to address than now.
You mentioned overspray cloud.
Gotta have some way of moving that out of the shop.
Doesn't have to be expensive or elaborate.
In this pic you can see 2 harbor freight industrial fans. They move some serious CFM.
I open a window at the other side of the shop and tape furnace filters over it.
Not fancy, but it works.