Ha to let basecoat sit

DzlFC

Promoted Users
Hey guys, I've been reading for the last year or so. I'm an airplane guy, and have painted a few fabric airplanes. There's a world of difference between standards for show cars and fabric airplanes. We want just enough paint to seal the fabric weave and get some uv protection. So LOTS of what is necessary for a nice car finish isn't done on an airplane.

I Got introduced to the forum when A buddy a few hangars down was shooting white SPI epoxy. It was significantly less expensive than the airplane stuff, and is a superior product.

Since then, I'm spraying two rigs, a neighbor's 65 mustang coupe and my 64 Jeep FC 150. I have the mustang at the 75% mark. It has been epoxy primed, turbo primed, epoxy sealed, and then shot with 3 to 4 coats of Wandabase. I taped the jambs, rockers and trunk drip rails and shot them with color matched turntable Raptorliner, stripped the tape, and was planning to shoot the two 10" wide red stripes within a 14-16 hour window. Annnnd, cue covid 19, round two. So, it's been 4 days.

I have the red stripes to lay down over the now dried and cured Wimbledon White Wandabase, and 5100-1 Euroclear to still apply. So my plan is to scuff the entire car with scotchbright pads (which ones?), tape and spray the red with three coats, letting flash, then starting with a fog coat then some heavier coats of the Euroclear.

The weather has been 75 to 85 in the mornings with very low humidity, reaching 102 to 105 in the after noon. Tomorrow will be in the 90's and cooling through the 80 degree mark for the weekend. I'm using the slow activator and reducer. Advise welcomed!
 
Don't scuff the basecoat. You don't need to. Especially if it's only been four days. Lay out your stripes, when finished wipe everything down again with solvent based W&G remover. Then apply your basecoat following the recomedations of the TDS of your product. (Wanda?). 30 minute flash between coats is ideal.
Once you have coverage on your stripes remove the masking and let it sit for a minimum of one hour. If you can let it sit overnight (12 hours) that would be ideal. Then because it's been sitting in base for a few days, wipe it all down with solvent W&G remover if there is any doubt as to cleanliness. Let it dry and you are ready for clear.
As for clear do not fog the first coat. Spray the first coat as you want it to look. Meaning a normal wet coat. 50-75% overlap. 4:1:1 works well with Euro.
What gun are you using? Do you have any of the SPI urethane retarder? If temps are in the 90's to 100's you would be well advised to wait until you can get some and some SPI extra slow reducer.
 
Thanks Chris. The gun is an older Sata I got from a friend. 1.3. Tomorrow is 88 for a high. Should be around 72 to 75 when I spray. The next three days highs are 83, 81, 82, degrees. Whew! Been hot, and gonna get there again, but not before I'm done.

I don't have retarder, but I'll order some, because it WILL be hot again before I start on the FC 150. By July 8th mid 90's, and three days later, back in the 100's.

The Mustang really looks better than I thought it would, given my inexperience, but I'm trading time fixing for experience. But the FC Jeep needs to be even better. They are pretty rare, and this one is in exceptional shape. The three layers of paint were trashed by 50 years in the desert, but it had very little rust, and few dents.
I'm having enough fun that I might consider a newer gun. My kids and the neighbors are asking what I'm painting next, and that after looking at the mustang, lol. I've still got time to screw it up. The kid that gave us Covid wants us to do his 74 corvette next...then the other boys 71 squareback....then my almost finished airplane. Yeah....could use a gun. Suggestions?
 
The Sata's come in two distinct models, HVLP's and RP's. It could be a 2000, 3000, 4000, or 5000 they all split into either an HVLP or RP. If it's an HVLP it will spray base nice, but it won't spray clear very well. If it's an RP it will spray clear very well. If it's an HVLP 1.3 and you want to get it done, reduce the Euro 4:1:2 to allow the gun to spray it better. You would need to add an extra coat or two to allow for the reduction in millage due to the thinner coats. Try to aim for 75% overlap on your passes. Allow 15 minutes to no more than 30 minutes between coats. A good rule of thumb is to check the clear using your gloved finger. If you can drag your finger on the tape adjacent to the work and not have it stick it is ready for the next coat. Give it 5 more minutes to be sure, but never go beyond 30 minutes between coats, as you can have issues if you do so.
 
DZ,
Interesting on the Maul.
Many years ago, I sold epoxy to them as they would dope the faberic and then epoxy.
In their restro shop.
I had to stop for insurance reasons because Maul is considered a plan for hire.
That was many moons ago, and I still had a full head of hair, Lol.
Do you know if they still use the same steps? Dont matter but just curious?
Barry
 
The Sata's come in two distinct models, HVLP's and RP's. It could be a 2000, 3000, 4000, or 5000 they all split into either an HVLP or RP. If it's an HVLP it will spray base nice, but it won't spray clear very well. If it's an RP it will spray clear very well. If it's an HVLP 1.3 and you want to get it done, reduce the Euro 4:1:2 to allow the gun to spray it better. You would need to add an extra coat or two to allow for the reduction in millage due to the thinner coats. Try to aim for 75% overlap on your passes. Allow 15 minutes to no more than 30 minutes between coats. A good rule of thumb is to check the clear using your gloved finger. If you can drag your finger on the tape adjacent to the work and not have it stick it is ready for the next coat. Give it 5 more minutes to be sure, but never go beyond 30 minutes between coats, as you can have issues if you do so.
It is an early 5000 hvlp. I'll try your suggestions for the clear. The stripes went beautifully today, except for the last coat where some idiot ;) drug the hose on the hood. I pulled the tape and will sand and retape that part of the stripe tomorrow. Taping took longer than I expected, but it was still around 80 when I sprayed. Really happy .
Thanks!
 
DZ,
Interesting on the Maul.
Many years ago, I sold epoxy to them as they would dope the faberic and then epoxy.
In their restro shop.
I had to stop for insurance reasons because Maul is considered a plan for hire.
That was many moons ago, and I still had a full head of hair, Lol.
Do you know if they still use the same steps? Dont matter but just curious?
Barry
Barry, I'm not sure what Maule does. The Pitman air hangar is next door, and they make the Dragonfly Hangglider tug. These are aluminum and Stainless, covered with dacron, and painted with automotive urethane, depending upon what the customer wants. The guy who designed them is flying one in Nepal in the video I'm linking. These will land and take off in a fraction of the distance of a Maule. These a few hundred flying all over the world. The one in the vid probably is flying on 65 hp--we just test flew one with double that.

Too much fun. A fat guy can dance in one of these. Kits sell in the 35-40k range, ready built from 55 on up.
 
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