Halogen Lights

Thanks Mike. Good question on the buckets. I assume if I mount the lamps so the bulb if flush with the outside of the bucket, it will not act as a reflector. This would require a spacer, which I have already fabricated in case I go that route. If I use a smaller spacer, or no spacer, the bulb just keeps getting deeper inside the bucket. I assume the deeper it is, the more it will choke down the contact where the light hits the metal. Do you think I am on the right thought process? Do you have any recommendations which way I should go? I will send a couple photos before you answer,.
 
First photo is mounted with outside of lamp flush with outside of reflector. Second picture is as deep as it will go without a spacer, which puts the outside of the lamp 2" in from the outside of the reflector. I can adjust by making my spacers anywhere in between. I tried to take a photo head on but too much reflection and blurrs the image. I wanted to show the space between the diameeter of the bulb compared to the diameter of the reflecter/shield. The space is 1 3/4". What do you think?
 
What limits the beam angle is the internal reflector design of the bulb. IR lamps are directional so one way to see where the edge is would be to put your hand along side of the bulb and a few inches from the glass and slowly move it forward to feel for the sudden heat transition. That will be the edge of the beam angle. Keep in mind that the beams cone angle does spread out the further away from the bulbs surface. I would say that the bulb could be seated back a few inches from the front edge of the housing and it would be fine.
 
Thanks for the help Mike. I actually have a wired socket I can plug in and determine where the edge is. Are you suggesting the heat edge be inside the reflector or at the edge of the reflector?
 
The bulbs internal reflector is what I was referring to, not the can. It looks like you have some clearance between the side of the bulb and housing can so that's not going to have any impact on the cone angle. The second photo with the bulb set back looks good.
 
Ok, I will try that. It can easily be changed anytime so thats a good starting point. Im thinking red would be way less offensive but it might be nice to use the clear just so I can shut some of the lights off and use for a work light if the light is good enough to do that. If not, then red would be a better choice.
 
Getting close to picking up light bulbs. Only one decision left, red or clear?
 
Both bulbs will put out in the IR range. The red will just filter out the light below IR (blues to green and everything in between) to give it that red look. How about a mixture of both?
 
Thanks Mike, I did consider a mixture of both. I have one of each, going to try them before I commit to color or colors. Thanks again for all your help.
 
Finished up the wiring. Just have to install the inspection cover over the wires and pick up some bulbs. Ready to test some epoxy this weekend and see how it works.
 
I went with clear bulbs because thats all I could get at Lowes and they always honor my military discount. Home Depot had the red, but they are more expensive and they only honor military discount on some items and then its always like puling teeth to get it on the items that do qualify. Lowes is always 100% 10% discount on everything and they actually act like its a pleasure to serve a member of the armed forces.
 
Very nice work! The wiring looks excellent. Is there a cover to go over the junction block? I'd be curious what the target surface temperature would be with the lights on. Do you have an infrared thermometer? Auto restoration....take 1.......*clack*...lights, camera, action!
 
Thanks for the encouragement Mike. Light bar cover installed after I took last check of everything inside. I wanted to show how much wire is involved. When I took it for a test run, it heated up from low sixties to above 80 in less than ten minutes. I backed it off about 18 inches and it seemed to heat more evenly, heading to 90 degrees. My target temp for SPI Epoxy is 80-90 degrees for at least 24 hours. I have other heat in the shop too, but I wanted something to heat the epoxy faster after an air exchange in the booth with outside temps are cold. This light is going to line up perfect for the door and fender rotaters I am building.
 
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