Having a hell of a time stripping paint

Okay so tomorrow I want to get the bumper completely ready to paint and the fender off the car ready to paint.

I have a few questions here and I'll post a bunch of pictures. First question I have is what am I going to paint inside. I have two options one is that big tent which I can cover up with plastic and make it into a closed area. The problem with that is I'm in the middle of redoing a bathroom so there's crap everywhere and I'm going to have to clean it real good on the floor.
The second option is I have a small shed which I use to store stuff I can empty that out and paint in there.

Now as for all the damage on the car that I want to fix. Obviously there's the bumper, I redid my headlights and cleared them. With the bumper off and headlights out I can easily take out my fender . Paint the fender and the bumper and put it back on and be done with it along with the headlights.

now I still have my hood which I can take off without taking anything else off.
And here comes where I need help on planning
On the left side of the car is the fender I'm going to take off that I want to re do,
Right after the fender is the door and there's a scratch on the door
Right after the door is a small rust spot along The gas tank is just a little chip there.
Then at the bottom of the gas tank , on the rear fender, is like a plastic piece . It's more like a film that's all scratched up and I want to take that off I'm not sure why that's there
Now the right side rear fender well is all rusted and I'm going to have to fix that.
The issue is the hood the front fender and the bumper I could do either in the shed or the tent covered.
The rest of the stuff I'm going to have to do outside piece by piece. Am I going to have a problem with paint not looking matched up. Am I going to have to blend? How do I approach this
 

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Heres another question I have . To fill in scratches i have 3 products, which one should I use
I have a one part glaze putty
I have filler for plastic that's made for plastic but the only problem is I think the hardener had a pinhole in it and there was liquid leaking out of it so I don't know if it's going to work
And I have a normal filler which I have to check if it's good for plastic
 

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Ok scratch all the previous questions. I need to know this if possible . The bumpers sprayed with epoxy primer from a few days ago. I did my body work. I sanded it down with 400.
The tech sheet for the primer says if its been sitting for 24 hrs which it has , I have to scuff it up and reshoot it. Will the primer hold with 400?
The tech sheet also says wait an hour after shooting a primer, and then I could apply my base.

So where I am right now with 400 can I clean it shoot it with epoxy, Wait an hour and shoot it with base then clear
 
Epoxy as a sealer, yes.
Actually I've been confused about this. This is an epoxy primer / sealer. They gave me activator I believe how does it work to make it a sealer and what is the difference.
 
Actually I've been confused about this. This is an epoxy primer / sealer. They gave me activator I believe how does it work to make it a sealer and what is the difference.
You need a Technical Data Sheet(TDS) for the product you are using. Since you have not said what you are using, there is no way we can answer your questions correctly. Epoxy is not epoxy any more than a Fiat is a Ferrari.
 
Here is what I did today besides a little bit of body work on the bumper. I didn't have any 6-in 80 grit. I threw a 5-in on there and used it a little bit. Then I did the rest by hand with 80 on a block. The first thing I did was hit it with the air hose and it flaked off like crazy. Between air and the razor I got about half of it off. now when I started hitting it with the sand there everything looked the same how do I tell where there's paint left? Do I really have to go down to bare metal throughout the whole hood? By looking at the picture what do you guys think
 

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Here is the TDS . I just want to make sure I don't have to redo this all over again or I'm going to literally cry
 

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The epoxy you are using looks to be more like something a speed collision shop would use rather than a restoration shop and not one most of us would be familiar with. Better epoxies take a lot longer to cure. Hopefully it's good enough though.
On the hood, honestly if you strip ALL the newly applied coatings and get the rest sanded down with finer grits, should be just fine.
Also do me a favor and don't use any of that 1 part glaze crap. ever.
 
The epoxy you are using looks to be more like something a speed collision shop would use rather than a restoration shop and not one most of us would be familiar with. Better epoxies take a lot longer to cure. Hopefully it's good enough though.
On the hood, honestly if you strip ALL the newly applied coatings and get the rest sanded down with finer grits, should be just fine.
Also do me a favor and don't use any of that 1 part glaze crap. ever.
Yeah I'm not going to use the one part glaze I'll just use the filler if I have to.
So with the hood you see how it's all different colors and it looks like there's water spots. I'm thinking those spots mean something do I have to keep sanding down on those areas.
After I get those areas clean , I'm guessing I should spray epoxy primer on it Wait 24 hours and work my way up to 400?
 
There's helpful...then there's teaching a refinish course online. Kudos to TexasKing for helping this guy out. You are a better man than I TK. Seriously.

And Sicilang....the least you could do for all this free help is to use some SPI products.
 
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