I want to create the "Best Sanding Blocks Ever"

Working in tandem with another, do it long enough and you know what the other is thinking and doing without asking or being told. :)

John
 
I think a few longer blocks would sell very well. I don't use them very often but they Have their place

 

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It wasn't too bad once we got into the right rhythm. The car was a complete basket case. And to top it off the customer wanted it black.



If Dean would make a few blocks longer than the 40" linear blocks that I have I'd buy them!
 
Guys using blocks that long is compensation for not knowing how to properly block a panel. If you know how to block you really don't need anything longer than a 17" or so block. Only reason to use longer is on something like a boat and that would be to speed up the process, not to get it straighter.
 
I'm comfortable doing the panels with a maximum 16" block. My car will be done with those before the longer blocks are available.
But, I hear the customers and if you want longer blocks, I'll deliver them.

As I said earlier in this thread, the costs go up exponentially for longer blocks.
And I'm doing everything I can to keep the price affordable for everyone, and still have a decent profit margin.

What about this idea, create a "connector" so that blocks can be locked together to form longer blocks.
This is a very rough sketch, but the idea is that I would ship 8" and 16" and have a method to securely connect them into a 24" unit.
Would probably have 24" steel rods that go through both units so they are truly unified.

combine blocks idea.jpg


Thoughts?
 
Dean Jenkins said:
I'm comfortable doing the panels with a maximum 16" block. My car will be done with those before the longer blocks are available.
But, I hear the customers and if you want longer blocks, I'll deliver them.

As I said earlier in this thread, the costs go up exponentially for longer blocks.
And I'm doing everything I can to keep the price affordable for everyone, and still have a decent profit margin.

What about this idea, create a "connector" so that blocks can be locked together to form longer blocks.
This is a very rough sketch, but the idea is that I would ship 8" and 16" and have a method to securely connect them into a 24" unit.
Would probably have 24" steel rods that go through both units so they are truly unified.

View attachment 23518

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
IMO no matter how precisely the holes are located and how stiff the rods, there is always going to be a transition between two joined blocks that will not translate to the same performance as a single block. There will be a slight variance between those two surfaces and it will be compounded by the fact that the joint will have movement in several directions. Maybe if you linked the two with a thin acrylic strip along the bottom…
 
I can understand that some may not use a longer block, but for this car it sure helped. The quarters were gone around 6" above the wheel arch from the door jamb to the tail light.

The quarters are edsel specific. It was the only year of this body style. The closest panels I found fit a galaxy or starliner but were terrible quality and not even close. So I made 3 panels to complete each side. Wheel arch, in front of the wheel arch, and another behind the wheel arch.

It may have been over compensation but the quarters were bodyworked and only primed once before painting and the car came out straight
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Guys using blocks that long is compensation for not knowing how to properly block a panel.
Click to expand...

And, that's a 100% rigid/straight block. That door isn't flat, even if they got the transition to the fender sorted out. The front ~2" of those doors roll in pretty deep, but the rest of the skin is still rounded a bit front to back. That's why the whole door is filler colored with no metal showing... it needs a lot of filler everywhere to make it block flat if you're using a really long rigid block like that. It's going to look unnaturally flat and it's more work to build all of the low areas up with filler than doing a normal skim and using a block that can flex just enough to match the natural slight front to back curve.


I have a 26" block that I use for bed sides and across the fender to door when blocking it all as one piece. The block needs to be long enough to bridge across the low spots so you're only cutting the high spots down and not making the lows any lower. Using aluminum c-channel to check the overall shape before bodywork starts ensures that the panel shape is correct, then you're not worrying about if the block is long enough to bridge big low areas. After the overall shape is corrected then blocking is mostly just taking the smaller highs/lows out.


0uKIOr6h.jpg


aYrnYPuh.jpg
 
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Dean Jenkins said:
I'm comfortable doing the panels with a maximum 16" block. My car will be done with those before the longer blocks are available.
But, I hear the customers and if you want longer blocks, I'll deliver them.

As I said earlier in this thread, the costs go up exponentially for longer blocks.
And I'm doing everything I can to keep the price affordable for everyone, and still have a decent profit margin.

What about this idea, create a "connector" so that blocks can be locked together to form longer blocks.
This is a very rough sketch, but the idea is that I would ship 8" and 16" and have a method to securely connect them into a 24" unit.
Would probably have 24" steel rods that go through both units so they are truly unified.

View attachment 23518

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I honestly don’t think that will work. It will flex at the joint.

Don
 
I still use my sanding blocks from 45 years ago ( 6" 3M rubber one with the nails in it, similar 8 1/2" long Snap-On one , and the old style Hutchins one that takes the 16" precut sheets). My continued use of them is an acknowledgment of their limitations and they work for me.

I plan on buying an introductory set from the original poster when they come to be available. I would be interested and buy a 24" one-piece block if made and marketed. Cost really is not that important to me if my physical ability actually allows me to use it effectively--sitting on the floor doing a quarter panel or door on the car isn't fun or easy like it was at 25. I don't want to buy a 36" block (with advanced age) only to discover--yeah, I can use for 2 minutes overhead before having to stop and take break. Someone borrowed my long AFS ones and didn't return them some years ago. My understanding is that business died with the owner--not so long ago. Kind of a shame that continuity was not maintained by the heirs or the assets taken over by a new person to do something with. That implies to me it might have been more of a hobby than an on-going concern with consistent cash flow.

Like flashlights--a person likely can never have too many sanding blocks. The longest block I have custom made and used was contoured and 26" long successfully. For me--the sandpaper became the limiting element for problems with either staying together on the block or making consistent contact with the surface for my strength, endurance level and arm length even with PSA. Over-reaching with a really long block on a ladder can be a concern. I think whether or not "long blocks" will be viable from a marketing perspective depends on the height, weight, arm length, and physical shape of the user to actually be able to use them for more than a brief moment in the awkward positions a person tends to find themselves in doing automotive bodywork. Like an 8' Starrett machinist straight edge--they get use once in a while in comparison to the shorter ones.
 
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Hi guys new to the forum from over here in Australia! Happy new year to you all. Woke up this morning and decided I needed some new sanding blocks. I've evolved from Durablocks to Melomotive Splines over last few years doing resto work. Was about to buy some Linear or Lucky Matt blocks as felt there was no other option and like everyone else, probably just use or adapt what I have to make do although not ideal. Looking forward to when blocks are available and hoping you can ship to Australia. Looks like a great deal and product anyway, thanks for your research and development. Have a bunch of cars in line to restore so looking forward to giving these blocks a good workout. I agree with the suggestions put forward on the design so far.
 
spare time restos said:
Hi guys new to the forum from over here in Australia! Happy new year to you all. Woke up this morning and decided I needed some new sanding blocks. I've evolved from Durablocks to Melomotive Splines over last few years doing resto work. Was about to buy some Linear or Lucky Matt blocks as felt there was no other option and like everyone else, probably just use or adapt what I have to make do although not ideal. Looking forward to when blocks are available and hoping you can ship to Australia. Looks like a great deal and product anyway, thanks for your research and development. Have a bunch of cars in line to restore so looking forward to giving these blocks a good workout. I agree with the suggestions put forward on the design so far.
Click to expand...
I'll do my best to ship you a set, to Australia. Hopefully the shipping cost is not over the top.
 
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