Information Overload!!

[aldefed]

Hello guys,
I'm getting ready to work on a project that has been on hold for 15 years. It's a 1955 Thunderbird and am trying to figure out the best process to use. There are now so many types of products and different manufacturers, I am having a hard time deciding what to do.

The shell of the car will be mounted on a rotisserie and will be sandblasted back to bare steel. Since this is not what I do for a living, it takes me awhile to finish each step and I need a process that will be forgiving. My initial plan is to use SPI epoxy on the bare steel and do any filler work on top of that. Since I will be working out of the recoat windows much of the time, is it best to use epoxy, filler and then more epoxy on top of that until I am close to flat? Is there a limit to the number of coats of epoxy that can be applied? At that point, would I want to switch to 2K urethane primer/surfacer to do the final block sanding?

A second question, the doors, hood and truck lid were sandblasted, then sprayed with acid etch primer and then sprayed with urethane primer/surfacer. I did these 15 years ago and other than being dirty, look the same as the day I painted them. What do I need to do to these panels to start working on them again?

Thanks for the help,
Al

 

[DavidL]

I’m a weekend warrior too, here are my thoughts. After spraying the epoxy over the prepped steel, apply filler to the known low spots and block. I like to try to get the filler applied and sanded out within the 7 day window then respray epoxy over the filler and any bare spots I caused. This step helps me because I can see how the filler work looks and gives me a chance to fix anything I’m not happy with as well as protects the filler from any accidental contamination . FYI, the filler will soak up the epoxy on the first coat. A second coat 30 minutes later will look more normal.

If you don’t get a chance to apply filler to the epoxy within 7 days just sand the area with 180 then apply the filler.

There is no limit to the number of coats of epoxy. Once your happy with the filler work then you can go right to 2k primer. However I’ve learned that applying a polyester primer like slick sand and blocking that flat before moving on to 2k is a nice time saver as I can use a more aggressive grit to get the panels really flat without sanding through and having to reapply primer. Then I use 2k over that blocking with finer grits.

Someone with more experience can chime in about the already primed doors, but if you used a high quality primer I’d start but washing them real good with dawn dish soap. If they need any filler work I’d sand the primer off in those spots, epoxy and then apply filler over the epoxy. For areas that don’t need filler work I’d sand them down with 180 and use a maroon scotchbrite on the nooks and crannies and apply a coat of epoxy as a sealer then proceed to polyester primer or 2k.

 

[aldefed]

The sprayed panels were done using martin senour products. Trio prime self etching primer and tint/prime surfacer. I had a comment that the surfacer will absorb contaminates after that much time and should be removed. I'm considering doing that anyways buy just wanted peoples thoughts.

 

[elwood]

I would take the primed parts down to metal. You are right about the possibility that it could have been contaminated with something. Urethane primer could have also absorbed moisture thru the years. It's easier to fix it now than after it's painted. Start with clean 80 grit prepped bare metal and use epoxy on it. No etching primer needed with SPI epoxy. Do any body filler over the epoxy and sandwich your filler with more epoxy when complete. That will be a solid foundation for your paint job.

 

[Barry]

The sprayed panels were done using martin senour products. Trio prime self etching primer and tint/prime surfacer. I had a comment that the surfacer will absorb contaminates after that much time and should be removed. I'm considering doing that anyways buy just wanted peoples thoughts.

Etching primer has no business being within a 100 yards of a restoration.

Back to bare metal.

Same the confusion and follow the perfect paint job in the catalog.

 

[crashtech]

Hello guys,
I'm getting ready to work on a project that has been on hold for 15 years. It's a 1955 Thunderbird and am trying to figure out the best process to use. There are now so many types of products and different manufacturers, I am having a hard time deciding what to do. The shell of the car will be mounted on a rotisserie and will be sandblasted back to bare steel. Since this is not what I do for a living, it takes me awhile to finish each step and I need a process that will be forgiving. My initial plan is to use SPI epoxy on the bare steel and do any filler work on top of that. Since I will be working out of the recoat windows much of the time, is it best to use epoxy, filler and then more epoxy on top of that until I am close to flat?

I think that is a good plan, it is what we do at my shop.

Is there a limit to the number of coats of epoxy that can be applied?

We haven't found the limit, if it exists.

At that point, would I want to switch to 2K urethane primer/surfacer to do the final block sanding?

You can if you want, 2K builds more and sands a bit easier.

A second question, the doors, hood and truck lid were sandblasted, then sprayed with acid etch primer and then sprayed with urethane primer/surfacer. I did these 15 years ago and other than being dirty, look the same as the day I painted them. What do I need to do to these panels to start working on them again?

I also think these need to go back to metal, unfortunately.

 

[aldefed]

Thank you for all the feedback. So I'll be stripping everything back to bare steel and using the epoxy primer. I'm sure I'll have other questions when I get further along. Now it's time to start ordering supplies.