Iwata LPH400 cap for metallic

John Milner

John Milner

Promoted Users
I have an Iwata LPH400 that I'm going to be painting my car with. It has a 1.4 tip and a chrome cap. As I understand, the chrome cap works well for clear. What is everyone's favorite cap for a metallic basecoat? I'm considering ordering one to have on hand when I go to paint my car.
 
Everyone does not have a favorite. I use a Tekna Copper for base and an LPH400 for clear. I had a purple cap for the LPH and it proved to be very finicky so I got rid of it after trying for way too long to get it to work. The stock chrome cap was actually better than the specialty cap, imo. My advice would be to go ahead and use the stock cap to try to spray whatever color you intend to use on a fairly large scrap panel. It could be that you won't need to buy anything else.
 
I have the LPH400 with the silver cap.
Used it to paint a number of vehicles with metallic paint. Like Crash, I also have the Tekna Copper and it is a great gun for spraying base and clear as well, however I seem to end up grabbing the LPH400 most of the time.

The LPH400 has a smaller fan (spray pattern) and needs to be held about 4" from the panel. You will also need a slow steady hand when spraying with it.

The Tekna has a much larger fan and requires moving slightly faster. Whatever gun you use, getting it set up properly (pattern, air, fluid) and consistent distance from the panel and spraying speed is the key.

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I've used the silver cap on the LPH400 for metallic, then read where I think the orange cap was meant for metallics, so bought one and used it on the next metallic job. Can't say I saw much of a difference, but then I only paint a couple cars a year. Like others said, I would try the silver cap and see how you like. Then maybe the orange.
 
Did a little research on purple versus orange caps since the orange wasn’t available when I bought the purple. The purple is recommended for difficult metallics and pearls and has a reputation for being difficult to use. The orange is for all other bases including metallics.

I hope I don’t jinx myself with the purple cap now… :)

Don
 
dhutton01 said:
Did a little research on purple versus orange caps since the orange wasn’t available when I bought the purple. The purple is recommended for difficult metallics and pearls and has a reputation for being difficult to use. The orange is for all other bases including metallics.

I hope I don’t jinx myself with the purple cap now… :)

Don
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Most of the reviews I read from people who changed out the silver cap, were like ksungela's. They didn't notice that much difference or they complained of the colored caps being more difficult to use. Can't say personally since I never had any trouble with the silver cap.
 
Thank you all for the replies. I hope my car turns out half as nice as the ones posted in this thread. All of your cars look great. I’m a “back yard hack” as well. I just want to give myself the best shot at doing a decent job on this car.
 
Regardless of cap - I’ve never been able to avoid tiger stripes . I’m not a pro by any means ! I always do a “orientation “ - “ drop “ coat . Never had a problem with the silver cap doing it this way
 
Tiger stripes are usually caused by three things:
1. Not having the gun set up right. You need a full fan pattern with complete coverage and no light or heavy spots in it.
2. Tipping the gun so it is not perpendicular to the surface. This usually happens when stretching to reach the center of a hood, roof or trunk lid.
3. Inconsistent overlap. I like 50% since it is easier for me to maintain. Keeping the tip centered on the edge of the preceding pass. Whatever overlap you prefer it must remain constant throughout the process.

Some base coats suggest a drop coat, however I generally find it unnecessary if I pay attention to the above.
 
Spraying too wet and inconsistent overlap are the two primary reasons for striping or mottling.
Solvent basecoats and drop coats do not work very well IMO. Far better thing to do is reduce RTS base with a blender 1:1 and spray one or two coats. You can get blender from any paint manufacturer or you can use SPI Intercoat as blender.
With a drop coat done wrong you can end up putting dry spray over the entire area you are trying to correct and screw it up. Blender simply dilutes the metallic which allows the metallic to even out. Simple and very effective. No guessing like with a dropcoat. Only way I would recommend to any novice or intermediate level painter.
 
Problem with a drop coat and solvent base is getting the base to stay open long enough for it to work. I've never had any luck with it and when I discovered blenders I never have done it since.
With proper techniques modern basecoats are very easy to apply and almost never have issues with tiger striping or mottling.
Some keys to success. Don't spray too wet. Light medium to at most medium coats. 50 to preferably 75% overlap, correct gun angle, and spray in straight lines.
 
The old Sikkens Autobase tech info from the late 80's had a drop coat as mandatory for metallics. It definitely won't work unless the reducer is slow enough. Also it has to be done immediately when the panel is sprayed, wet on wet, no coming back to it later and thinking it will work. This can be a big challenge in very hot weather because you have to have very slow reducers.
 
Yeah I should add that both the quality and speed of reducer plays a huge role in how base sprays and lays out.
You never want to use fast, and even a medium should not be used in Temps above 65 max. Even then only for panel work not overalls. Slow or very slow is all I will use. And SPI's reducer is the best I've ever used bar none.
 
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Slow learner lol said:
Great advice. So chris are u taking your rts base and mixing with reduced intercoat or straight blender
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If you are using SPI Intercoat you would reduce it per the instructions. Then mix it with your RTS basecoat. Most of the blenders other paint manufacturers sell are usually RTS, but you would want to refer to the TDS of the product you are using for complete instructions.
 
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John Milner said:
......I’m a “back yard hack” as well. I just want to give myself the best shot at doing a decent job on this car.
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A few years back I had bought Iwata guns, after having extensively used the Sata NR95. I found myself not readily capable of using the Iwata gun as it is a slower application and my motor skills had become "programmed" to the Sata's faster application. Sold the Iwata's and went back to Sata. Please understand I'm not pushing one product over the other, but depending on how you spray, one of these two brand paint guns may play nicer with your style of paint application for better results..
 
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