Jeep Wrangler tub bottom sprayed with SPI bedliner

H

HIG

Zack and I have finally finished welding the patch panels into the floor and makings some misc. patch panels that were needed. We sprayed the final coat of epoxy on the bottom of the tub yesterday and used the bedliner for the first time today. I was very happy with the way everything went of but course I had a question and wasn't sure how long to wait between coats so I called the tech line and as always Barry was very helpful and told me to start spraying it on and stop when it's gone. (I could wait if I wanted to but didn't need to).

Here's the some pics:

Epoxied:



1 gallon of bedliner:





Here's a few before shots:


Driverside done:




I am so Thankful for the great products SPI sells and the service they provide and also for this site where I know I can find great information from knowledgeable people, no snake oils BS just the proper way to do it.

Now the next big question is if we spray the inside of the tub black or mix SPI red base into it to match the exterior. :)

Thanks again, Steve
 
Nice job and the red mixed with the liner will match but have less shine.
 
HIG, did you use seam sealer over your welds or seams before your sprayed the bed liner?
 
We used seam sealer over any open joint, such as where the the braces were.

Steve
 
I just tried Lord Fusor 805 and it did not stick well to the epoxy. You can start on the edge where its feathered out and just "roll it off". Looks like a couple hours removing it tommorow, cleaning with 700 and trying something else. What seam sealer did you use Steve?
 
Good question, I was told epoxy first then seam seal. If you use a seam sealer for bare metal, seam seal first. If you use a seam sealer that requires epxoy first, you do it that way. Lord Fusor is for bare metal, but my supplier said it could be used over epoxy. Now I am doubting that. I took him at his word but did not confirm on tech...my screw up. I will have to confirm that, might be what went wrong.
 
Outlaw;40184 said:
I just tried Lord Fusor 805 and it did not stick well to the epoxy. You can start on the edge where its feathered out and just "roll it off". Looks like a couple hours removing it tommorow, cleaning with 700 and trying something else. What seam sealer did you use Steve?
Click to expand...

We just used seam sealer from NAPA, I'm not sure what it was - sorry to hear about your problems.

Steve
 
Not too serious, I actually did not do all the seams because I wanted confirmation it would work before I did them all. I am going to try and find some Lord Fusor 800EZ and if thats not successful, I will give the NAPA seam sealer a shot. Next time, Im going to scuff regardless of the minimum window. Thanks HIG. Your project looks pretty awesome.
 
HIG...I checked NAPA on line and it looks like they sell the 3M seam sealers. Any idea which one you used? Did you use it over SPI Epoxy?
 
Outlaw;40230 said:
HIG...I checked NAPA on line and it looks like they sell the 3M seam sealers. Any idea which one you used? Did you use it over SPI Epoxy?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure, I could check tonight but it wasn't 3M. Hopefully some of the more experienced guys can add their advice of what they've used over SPI epoxy and under their bedliner.

Steve
 
Im really happy with the Fusor 800 DTM. It has a lot of body and it sticks real well. According to my jobber, its the replacement for 800 EZ which has been reported as a good product to use with SPI Fusor. The Fusor 805 may have also worked if I would have scuffed the epoxy before I applied it. I assumed the open window of the epoxy would be compatible with the application of Fusor 805. Its not! Regardless of whether or not the Fusor 805 would have worked with scuffing before application, its a thin rubbery product that stays too flexible for a base under SPI Bedliner (IMO). 800DTM (direct to metal) also works over scuffed epoxy. I would have preferred 803DTM because its black rather than neutral (800DTM). The neutral is not clear as I expected, its kind of a tan beige.

The pattern on the GEO gun takes a little to get used to. When you are working on an area like the bottom of a floor pan, its already a bit of a challenge to catch all the angles. When you add the round spray pattern of the GEO gun, its even more challenging. First time with a GEO gun on something like a wheel house might be easier to get the feel of the GEO gun.

I honestly believe the two part seam sealers are superior to the single part, but there are just too many issues for me with the two part. I have yet to find a Lord Fusor product on the shelf that is not past the expiration date. When you call them, they will tell you to try it before you use it. There goes a mixer tip and a mixer tip full of the product just to see if its going to harden up. While I was using a panel adhesive, the two part product hardened in the tip...before I was done. I was trying to get it out for another area and it hardened enough in the tip that the pressure I was putting on the gun handle blew the whole side of one of the tubes out. This was not hours or days later, it was very close to the kick time of the product.

I concluded that if you need more than the kick time of the product for additional applications, you need to remove the mixer tip and start new.

Another product I would look into is "Tiger Seal". Its made by U-Pol and my supplier said he swears U-Pol makes Lord Fusor 800DTM and 803DTM. Same price.

That gets kinda spendy.
 
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[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;40187]Should you seam seal and then epoxy or epoxy and then seam seal?[/QUOTE] I always epoxy under and over seam sealer regardless of what is being applied over it. The time's I've done this before bedliner it has worked very well. 3M's Ultrapro urethane sealers have always worked well along with the copies, I've seen failures with some of the 2K sealers and almost all of the sovent and water based sealers.
 
What I really like about 3M is the availability. Is the one you referenced (Ureathane sealant adhesive) good for adhering metal to metal? I have a location inside the cab on the floor board where I want to attach a metal corner stip to the edge of the floor. It will be covered with epoxy, sound deadner like dynomat or similar, and carpet.
 
Bob, The only place I can find the 3M seam sealer adhesive you referenced in your post is in your post. I googled 3m Seam Sealer and Adhesive 7627 but have yet to find it. Am I looking for the right thing?
 
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