Just sprayed Feather Fill so...

Max

Member
As it cures, my plan was to go 400 grit and then.. I have regular SPI 2K available or could go straight to an epoxy sealer then most likely single stage on Sunday.

Is there a reason to spray 2K before the sealer or does this all just depend on the finish I achieve after sanding the Feather Fill that determines that?
 
Different products are used because they sand easier. I always sanded feather fill with 120 and then switched to 180, then move onto something easier to sand like epoxy or 2k primer for finer grits.

If this is your initial sanding and you are blocking something flat you really want to stay at 180 or courser to start.
 
Thanks for the reply but not a grit or sanding question. I've already sprayed epoxy and done light filler work. I only use Feather Fill if i'm able to sand with 400 afterwards. I'm asking about whether to use Regular 2K after Feather Fill and before epoxy sealer.

I've found bits & pieces of info digging through the forum but felt best to just ask the direct question.
 
Thanks for the reply but not a grit or sanding question. I've already sprayed epoxy and done light filler work. I only use Feather Fill if i'm able to sand with 400 afterwards. I'm asking about whether to use Regular 2K after Feather Fill and before epoxy sealer.

I've found bits & pieces of info digging through the forum but felt best to just ask the direct question.

Max, sounds like this is you are pretty new to this. I can tell by the questions you are asking. So I'll try to clarify some things for you. First, the condition of the surface of the panel after you get done sanding determines what steps you do next. Oh and 400 is WAY too fine a grit to start sanding poly primer with.

The reasons to use primer are to adhere to bare metal and provide corrosion protection. Epoxy is primarily used for this. Then 2K Urethane and Poly Primers are used for build. (Not neccesarily in combination.) To fill and build millage (thickness) so that you can block (sand) out any small imperfections in the panel. The idea with using poly primer is to fill and build. You then block the "fill and build" done using a relatively coarse grit. This is done for two reasons, one it is faster, but more importantly using a coarser grit like 180 dry (not wet or dry paper) on a long block to start, helps level the surface far better than when using finer grits. Using something like 400 grit will result in a much more wavy surface than using a coarser grit. Especially with a build primer like poly primer.
After blocking the poly (with a guide coat) you would look at the panel and see if there are any low spots remaining, or highs, pinholes etc. The condition of the surface determines what your next step would be. Sometimes that means more poly to fill and build more or some like using 2K Urethane at that point. Or if there is enough material on your panel you simply go through the grits (180 dry, 320 dry 600 wet for example) and then seal.
So to restate, after you get done sanding the panel, the condition it's in determines what you do next. Apply more build primer (2K Urethane or Poly), apply a final couple of coats of epoxy to cover any metal sand throughs and fill sand scratches, or simply go through the grits on the existing surface, to ready the panel for sealer.
 
Good stuff appreciate it. New sorta. I don't do this for a living but have restored various things in the past. I always come to a new situation tho and try to avoid having to erase (sand) efforts that took time. Replies are exactly what I was thinking and looking for. When I started doing my own paint & bodywork, I had good, clean, flat metal to work with. Since then, I seem to be getting more things in worse shape.

I'm still working on a gas pump. The main outside panels were ok but pitted quite a bit from rust. I had them blasted and epoxied before I scuffed and took care of metalwork - welding and hammering dents. After filler I epoxied since I did have sand throughs and to seal the filler. I'm using Feather Fill to level off the rest of the pitted areas so i'm following their p-sheet which says 400-600 and seems to be working fine. Put 3 good coats of poly on and 3 hrs later blocked smooth with 400 dry. I'm happy with it so far.

First time I used the Feather Fill on the top cap for the same reasons, I went back to 220 dry and quickly hit the pitted areas again. Since then i've put one additional coat on and leveled everything with 400 so I don't hit metal again so fast. And yes i'm using a guide coat but only on the main flat areas. This isn't something i'm putting in a show. Just real good practice to get the steps down, learn flash & cure times in this #&$% heat and have better understanding when it comes to a few other more important things I have parked that have wheels & motors on them.
 
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