Lots of nibs/trash in clear.

I rarely block clear so I can’t really answer. I just sand the panel until they are gone while being careful of the edges etc.

Dom
 
CK-2 said:
I have one of the 1000 grit Meguiars banding blocks for runs etc. Would that be good?
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I haven't used one of those in years. I remember trying them, but never used them after that. Wet is OK, just harder to see when the trash is level. Any small, flat object can be used with paper wrapped around it. I used a modified paint stick for years. The advantage to the Toleblock is it is a totally flat hard rubber block, and the precut pieces are PSA so they don't move. I just use them dry so it is easy to see.
 
CK-2 said:
Ok thanks. So you just concentrate on the nibs with that Toleblock?
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Normally, sanding with 1000 will remove the nibs if you are using some type of block or pad. If you sand with 1000 and there are still a few nibs showing, you can remove those spots with the toleblock before going to the next grit
 
texasking said:
Normally, sanding with 1000 will remove the nibs if you are using some type of block or pad. If you sand with 1000 and there are still a few nibs showing, you can remove those spots with the toleblock before going to the next grit
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I sanded with 1000 grit and a hard block. The peel was gone quick just a little left in a few spots around the edges. So I stopped, figuring I didn’t want to take it all out with the first grit. But I can see a few nibs still shining. And I can tell I still have some wave when I get down and look at the panel in just the right light. I want it flat when I’m finished.
 
With a hard block, the wave will show up as orange peel in the lows, and flat on the peaks of the wave. If the block is too short, it can follow the wave instead of cutting it out. I use a piece of oak about 8" long, and you can feel the wave going away with every stroke. It feels "bumpy" at first and gradually feels smoother. With 4+4, you should be able to get fairly aggressive and block the wave out. Lots of people start with 800 or even 600 as a first grit. It cuts wave out easier, but really shouldn't be needed on a flow coat if the wave is completely cut out of the original coats, IMO.
 
I don’t have an oak block that long. Mine are short. I have the durablocks various sizes.
 
I have a buddy that does a lot of wood working and cabinet building. I’ll see if he’ll make me one.
 
texasking said:
With a hard block, the wave will show up as orange peel in the lows, and flat on the peaks of the wave. If the block is too short, it can follow the wave instead of cutting it out. I use a piece of oak about 8" long, and you can feel the wave going away with every stroke. It feels "bumpy" at first and gradually feels smoother. With 4+4, you should be able to get fairly aggressive and block the wave out. Lots of people start with 800 or even 600 as a first grit. It cuts wave out easier, but really shouldn't be needed on a flow coat if the wave is completely cut out of the original coats, IMO.
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What abrasives are you using for blocking clear? Is it PSA rolls or sheets?

Thanks,
Don
 
My buddy is going to make me an oak block today What do you use for sanding out wave where a flat rigid block won’t work? Like concaved and convexed areas?
 
CK-2 said:
My buddy is going to make me an oak block today What do you use for sanding out wave where a flat rigid block won’t work? Like concaved and convexed areas?
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Round Durablocks work for concave. Convex usually the hard block at a 45, or the Meguiars E7200 hand pad works well.
 
Some great info TK, I know Im picking up some new stuff. What brand PSA paper are you using in the 400-800 range?
 
I've tried a bunch. The sunmight green film back is my favorite, but I haven't seen any in the finer grits. The Mirka gold sucks, the Norton gold is better, the 3M gold is similar to the Norton. I haven't found a sheet roll that stands out in the finer grits, yet. I am going to order some of this next. It looks promising on paper :) https://www.finishingfocus.com/prod..._content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic
 
https://www.finishingfocus.com/prod..._content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic

Interesting. Never heard of the stuff. Looks to be German made so that is a good thing. 3M Gold is good paper but the adhesive used seems to "go bad" fairly quickly. Ends up sticking to the abrasive side of the paper as you unroll it. So you are constantly trying get it off the paper as you are sanding. Affects the finer grits most noticeably. One of the reason I switched to Sunmight. Got to question why anyone would want to use anything over 400 dry by hand though. Even 400 dry is a pain imo. Paper loads so quickly. Sunmight does makes PSA film sheet rolls up to 500 grit though.

Link to Sunmight Catalogs for anyone interested.

 
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