Marking low spots for filler?

Dean Jenkins

Dean Jenkins

Promoted Users
Is there a marker that can be used for marking low spots etc for filler?
I worry a pencil or sharpie will contaminate the filler.

Once the filler is mixed it would be nice to have the areas clearly outlined and then quickly get to spreading.

I know some guys use tape, I've tried that and it is a hassle with gloves on, even leaving an end sticking up.

I've also heard about using a grinder or sandpaper to mark the area. That's what I'll do unless there is a cool marker of some kind, which would be really nice.
 
I've seen sharpie marks bleed through filler and urethane primer before. Would be ok as long as you don't apply any filler over the sharpie marks. Tape would be the safest though. Being you are wearing gloves leave the end sticking up and fold over on itself. That way it won't stick to your gloves when you pull it off.
 
I think its a gamble to use a sharpie anywhere it might bleed.
Saw a video recently with some good tips that might help you with the low areas, but in the metal working stage, its just as important to work the high areas down as well as possible, as it is working the low areas up. You don't want to use filler to bring the majority of the panels up to match the high areas.

Not saying everything this guy does is right, but there are some good tips there for what you are doing.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
I've seen sharpie marks bleed through filler and urethane primer before. Would be ok as long as you don't apply any filler over the sharpie marks. Tape would be the safest though. Being you are wearing gloves leave the end sticking up and fold over on itself. That way it won't stick to your gloves when you pull it off.
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Tape it is.
As you can see, there are are few spots marked to address. Mostly pin holes and very minor lows. This is after a full skim coat and then a 2nd round.
Very minor stuff now.
20220302_173110.jpg


After these spots are filled, quick block with 180, epoxy coat since there is a lot of bare metal, and then slick sand and 220.

I keep reminding myself the final finish will be bedliner, which is pretty forgiving.
 
Man, I would not do Slick Sand on that unless you hate yourself. That would be so much sanding, and the crust SS makes takes a bit to block through. If you're doing bedliner anyways, why not just several coats of epoxy (until it's no longer being soaked up by the filler) and go straight to bedliner?
 
Lizer said:
Man, I would not do Slick Sand on that unless you hate yourself. That would be so much sanding, and the crust SS makes takes a bit to block through. If you're doing bedliner anyways, why not just several coats of epoxy (until it's no longer being soaked up by the filler) and go straight to bedliner?
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Interesting.
I've found the slick sand pretty easy to work with. And it seems like this is exactly what it was made for, a panel that needs a lot of leveling.
I also like how there is a big color contrast with it for lows and highs, built in guide coat.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
Tape it is.
As you can see, there are are few spots marked to address. Mostly pin holes and very minor lows. This is after a full skim coat and then a 2nd round.
Very minor stuff now.
View attachment 19861

After these spots are filled, quick block with 180, epoxy coat since there is a lot of bare metal, and then slick sand and 220.

I keep reminding myself the final finish will be bedliner, which is pretty forgiving.
Click to expand...
You're going through all of that and you're going to spray bed liner over it???!!!
 
How ridiculous is this?
I'm going to spray U-Pol Raptor for the bedliner.
I have their Vari Nozzle gun. The instructions were vary vague "adjust fluid nozzle, pressure, distance to get desired texture."
I took some MDF, primered it, gridded it off and shot 45 permutations to find the "perfect" settings for the "perfect" texture.
20220303_130347.jpg
 
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