Motocryl

JimKueneman

JimKueneman

Mopar Nut
Hi, I have had good luck with Motocryl on interior parts so when I agreed to paint a Ford truck in SS Motocryl I did not hesitate.... I am regretting that. I have been fighting thousands of fisheye like craters (the size of pin heads mostly) in the final coats. This last time I bought a new hose, added 2 oil filters/traps and used a different compressor altogether as well as wiping it down with 710 then wiping it down with the same SPI reducer (slow) that I used to spray. It made no difference, shot the hood again today (3rd time) with different gun settings on the fluid flow on each side (2.5 and 3.0 turns out) and it quickly developed thousands of pin head sized craters on both sides.

I am about to give up and order Motobase and UC as I know I can succeed with that. Does anyone have any thoughts? Oh and I have a high end dryer (AC unit for drying air).

Jim
 
Last edited:
The only time I have seen fisheyes like that is when my activator was contaminated by moisture. I used some activator that was not sealed properly after use.
 
JimKueneman said:
Hi, I have had good luck with Motocryl on interior parts so when I agreed to paint a Ford truck in SS Motocryl I did not hesitate.... I am regretting that. I have been fighting thousands of fisheye like craters in the final coats. This last time I bought a new hose, added 2 oil filters/traps and used a different compressor altogether as well as wiping it down with 710 then wiping it down with the same SPI reducer (slow) that I used to spray. It made no difference, shot the hood again today (3rd time) with different gun settings on the fluid flow on each side (2.5 and 3.0 turns out) and it quickly developed thousands of pin head sized craters on both sides.I am about to give up and order Motobase and UC as I know I can succeed with that. Does anyone have any thoughts? Oh and I have a high end dryer (AC unit for drying air).

Jim
Click to expand...
Using 710 then Sliw reducer to wipe down? What are you using for wipes?
Are the fisheyes consistent or do you see more in one are versus another?

Most definitely get some SPI 700 and some good known clean prep wipes. Use 700 first as it is much more effective with silicone than 710.

My gut says your wipes are contaminated. Have you done anything new this time? Is this the first time with the dryer etc?

It's coming from the air supply or when you are wiping it down most likely. Changing products won't help anything till you eliminate the contamination.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Using 710 then Sliw reducer to wipe down? What are you using for wipes?
Are the fisheyes consistent or do you see more in one are versus another?

Most definitely get some SPI 700 and some good known clean prep wipes. Use 700 first as it is much more effective with silicone than 710.

My gut says your wipes are contaminated.
Click to expand...

They are from the autobody supply shop I have locally. I would have to go over to my buddies shop to get the brand. They are blue and for for this work. I have used this brand on all my other cars.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Using 710 then Sliw reducer to wipe down? What are you using for wipes?
Are the fisheyes consistent or do you see more in one are versus another?

Most definitely get some SPI 700 and some good known clean prep wipes. Use 700 first as it is much more effective with silicone than 710.

My gut says your wipes are contaminated. Have you done anything new this time? Is this the first time with the dryer etc?

It's coming from the air supply or when you are wiping it down most likely. Changing products won't help anything till you eliminate the contamination.
Click to expand...

They are _everywhere_ on _every_ panel regardless of how I wiped it down (the first time I used tack rags after 710 and that was a fail too). Yes I have some 700 as well.
 
Are you spraying all coats in one session? If you have days between coats how are you prepping/sanding the previous coats before spraying? With what grits etc?
 
It's contamination from either the air supply or something in the wipe down process.

Is this the first time using the new air dryer? Anything new or changed in your process before spraying this time?
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
It's contamination from either the air supply or something in the wipe down process.

Is this the first time using the new air dryer? Anything new or changed in your process before spraying this time?
Click to expand...

I am doing it at my buddies shop with his compressor(s) is the main difference.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Tack cloths can leave fisheyes like that from transferring residue. Likely though you would see more in one area versus another. If it's very even and everywhere, air supply is the most likely culprit.
Click to expand...


I have not seen anything like this with the 2k and epoxy up to this point.... It is baffling (and frustrating) me to no end.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
I'd be looking at the air supply after re-reading your first post. Sounds like oil from the compressor or water. Have you sprayed anything at your buddy's shop prior to this?
Click to expand...

No, this is a first. I added the oil traps and I didn't see anything in them today (only shot the hood as a test).
 
JimKueneman said:
No, this is a first. I added the oil traps and I didn't see anything in them today (only shot the hood as a test).
Click to expand...
Well it's likely that the air supply is your source of contamination.
If there is enough blowby with the compressor then the typical oil coalescer won't get it all.

Do you have a dryer attached to the compressor? If not how are you controlling the water?
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Well it's likely that the air supply is your source of contamination.
If there is enough blowby with the compressor then the typical oil coalescer won't get it all.

Do you have a dryer attached to the compressor? If not how are you controlling the water?
Click to expand...

I have a high end AC type dryer ($1000+) again I would have to go over and look at the brand. Remember our humidity here is like 5% right now so that plus the dryer I doubt the lack of dry air is the issue.
 
I can in an hour or so. Getting ready to eat supper.

Normal non dryer setup. Compressor. Then 50 ft of piping before first filter which is the water coalescer. Then oil, then dessicant dryer. Traps before the filters and after. If the minimum amount of feet before the filters is not observed then condensate can form after the water coalescer or the dessicant dryer saturates in short order sending water vapor downstream. Water vapor condensating in the line or hose looks like pinholes.

If you use a dryer then it needs to be far enough away for the air to cool to the rated max inlet temp of the dryer. If not condensate can form downstream as it cools. Even there in AZ.

Honestly it can take time to sort airline issues. Might be easier to have your buddy Truck it to your place.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
I can in an hour or so. Getting ready to eat supper.

Normal non dryer setup. Compressor. Then 50 ft of piping before first filter which is the water coalescer. Then oil, then dessicant dryer. Traps before the filters and after. If the minimum amount of feet before the filters is not observed then condensate can form after the water coalescer or the dessicant dryer saturates in short order sending water vapor downstream. Water vapor condensating in the line or hose looks like pinholes.

If you use a dryer then it needs to be far enough away for the air to cool to the rated max inlet temp of the dryer. If not condensate can form downstream as it cools. Even there in AZ.

Honestly it can take time to sort airline issues. Might be easier to have your buddy Truck it to your place.
Click to expand...

When you are available give me a call. I have a nice dryer and the overall setup is nearly identical to what it is at home (took all my hoses, ect to his house) so I don't think its water but I may have been wrong once before in my life.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top