My new air setup

R

Rustbuster77

Finally got this done after some delays and a different compressor. After soldering lines (3/4" copper) is there any need to clean the lines etc?

I put a ball valve shutoff prior to the Motor Guard M60 so when using general shop air, it would be bypassed. But when painting, I have a dedicated hose only used for painting.

Also used Milton High Flow quick connectors. Ingersoll first stage filtration is used for general oil and water. I took the tip of running approx 60+ feet of 3/4" copper.

Here's pics
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Looks good, but you need a drop leg to capture the bulk of the moisture before it hits the filter. Your 60' of copper will help cool the air releasing the moisture from a vapor to a liquid easily captured in a drop leg with a drain valve.
 
Won't the Ingersoll filter catch that? I was wondering about that when I set it up but assumed that the first stage filter would catch that stuff. I think there's room to add one more or I'll make room...
 
new air valve here?

That's an interesting and helpful diagram.

Part of my issue is that the area/wall where the apparatus is mounted to is a bump out into my garage of our bedroom/bathroom etc since it's a split level house. I didn't want to have the drop extending below the bump out. Do you think I could get away with terminating the drop at bottom of bump out?modified air system1.jpg
 
repipe it a little bit and add a self draining bowl on the drip leg under the new valve. I would also add a union in the new verticle pup in the attached photo.



All the piping on the wall should grade down toward the moisture drain, Hard to tell from the picture but it appears some runs have back grade on them.
 
Shine** The motor guard filter is final stage behind the ball valve, meaning when valve is closed (as in the photo) the air doesn't see the motor guard, I turn the valve on when painting only.

SOF**There's a 10' whip of flex air compressor hose with milton quick connects so essentially, that's my "union"

I can redo part of it for drip leg. I looked at your drawing and didn't understand what appears to be a jog to left (in red) on downward vertical pipe.

I did a brief test yesterday and it blew nice dry air before the Motor guard and it was pretty humid here for MN.

With a few modifications, I hope to be ready to spray epoxy either tonight or tomorrow. Gotta get started on these jobs while it's out of the 90's. I got regular activator for my UV clear.
 
This might explain the first stage of piping a little better

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it is good to have a drain trap but not a must. your moisture trap will do the same thing. it is a good idea to have a motor guard filter about a ft from the compressor.
 
I figured the motor guard was good for last stop filtration prior to the air hose for the spray gun.
 
Drain leg should be at far end of coiling portion, not at the start.
You need to let the air cool so the moisture vapor condenses back into liquid.
Your air is blowing right over that drip leg.
I was referring to putting a union before your devices for easy maintenance , instead of having to unsolder a joint to be able to tighten a leaky fitting for example.
 
thanks for the explanation, I didn't understand the true purpose of the union. I'm a self taught plumber as you can tell ;)

The main reason I had the drain leg where it was (right after compressor) is that I could catch any thing right off compressor but I'm sure you're right in that it's just blowing past it. I can either remove that one or leave it and place new one before ingersoll first stage filter as you showed in your sketch. Did I understand the jog to the left in your sketch right?
 
I put a drop right out of the compressor too, and it does catch a certain amount but not much. which was when I built the LincolnTowncar heater core condenser that works great.
What I did do with that first drop that I'm happy with was, I plumbed a hose faucet as the relief valve and now when every I need air for the Zodiac or blowing leaves off the deck or inflating air floats for the kiddies I can just hook up the garden hose and 'get er done':cool:
 
Rustbuster77;22661 said:
thanks for the explanation, I didn't understand the true purpose of the union. I'm a self taught plumber as you can tell ;)

The main reason I had the drain leg where it was (right after compressor) is that I could catch any thing right off compressor but I'm sure you're right in that it's just blowing past it. I can either remove that one or leave it and place new one before ingersoll first stage filter as you showed in your sketch. Did I understand the jog to the left in your sketch right?



Maybe this is a bit more clear, my paint program makes it near impossible to draw an isometric drawing. Basically it shows a T cut into the drop, a pup looking straight out from the wall, then a 90 looking straight down, another short pup, then a 90 looking into the existing line w union added.

Off the bottom of the Tee solder the cutoff pipe with the 45 elbow on it so it is pointing straight out from the wall, then solder a 45 street elbow in and have it point straight down. Then a short pup soldered into it going straight down passing behind the supply air line. The street 45 will move the pipe off the wall enough you can get a valve on it. .
 
Getting ready for some prep tomorrow. I'm having fun like a kid getting ready!

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Lots of good advice. My motor guard filter has been at the end where I hook my hose for 10 plus years. Never any need to put a filter close to the compressor if you have the right grade/fall and down legs in a system. I would come back a ft or two from the end of the last 90 going down to the trap and tee down with a drain leg.

PS Nothing wrong with using your air tools on the filtered air. It's good for them.
 
let me clear something up before i have to deal with a google warrior and the 50 ft to cool the air thing. the first filter should be a couple of feet from the compressor. sooner or later a compressor will start making oil vapors. now you can stop them at 2 ft or let them migrate throughout your whole air supply. eventually building up to the point that filters can barely handle it. i have had to strip out a complete shop full of air line because the former tenant used an old worn out compressor with no filter.

shine
 
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