Need help removing seam sealer

cllong1

cllong1

Promoted Users
Hey Guys, I need to know how to or what tool to use to get seam sealer, not sure thats what it is in the drip rail channel on the roof. Im not sure what this stuff is but hard and cracked in the nook and crannies on both sides in the channel. Im not sure if a dremmel tool is small and strong enough to squeeze off in there.
 
I like the cookie discs too. Right size wire wheel brush will do it too. If you can get to it with a wire wheel brush on your drill that'll eat most seam sealers up. Sometimes you just look around at what you have in the shop and come up with a solution. I've used the hammer and chisel before as well.
 
does any body know what that stuff is in that drip rail is it some of seam or weld sealer, not that it really matters?
 
It is seam sealer, used to keep moisture from getting between the panels. I'm not sure exactly what material they used back then, but it does get dry and hard. That is why a chisel is sometimes the best method. It will just chip off in chunks, or not :)
 
okay, so im assuming to stay away from autozone and get some 3M, I just want to did it correctly
 
I will probably get the roloc and 3M seam sealer, didn't know that it needed re-sealing after removal.
 
Understood, so will it it be ok to let the seam sealer set and dry until I come back and spray 2k primer over the body. So Basically, epoxy bare metal, , seam sealer then 2k primer on top of seam sealer. Just wanting correct order
 
The sealer will have a cure time / recoat window. If you run out of the window it needs sanded or scuffed before you proceed, this varies on the sealer so check the tds for the specific sealer your using.

I always put epoxy over my sealer, but that isn't technically necessary I dont think.
 
Sprint, to clarify, you'd put epoxy on bare metal and sanded old finish as a base first right? Then seam sealer, bodywork and another coat of epoxy?
 
Yes, to clarify, always start with epoxy on bare metal first, then seam sealer making sure to stay in the recoat window of the epoxy. After seam sealer I went to another coat of epoxy on top of and within the seam sealer recoat window, or if out of the seam sealer recoat window sand/scuff it and then epoxy. It doesnt hurt to sand/scuff either way, and you can sometimes smooth it out a little more if needed.

I usually went this way with another coat of epoxy on top of the seam sealer because I was usually at the point of putting another coat of epoxy on anyhow. I would do any filler work, seam seal, and then seal it all off with epoxy and move on to 2k or poly primer.

Another thing, make sure you have your stuff in order. Have a process thought out thoroughly when it comes time to put sealer on and smooth it out, it sets up quicker then you think. A filler spreader works really good to smooth, and if needed can be trimmed to fit specific areas.
 
With the 2 part seam sealers you should get extra tips because you'll generally need more tips for a cartridge than the two supplied. You can get extra bags of them. External seams I like to wait until I'm ready for sealer and then seam those areas and then seal. Getting it to look nice is a bit of an art as much as it is a skill. You can use some lacquer thinner to help smooth it just like you would with regular one part SS, and to clean up any errant SS. I use my finger when doing it as much as anything else. You want to try and get the edges completely smooth, if not they will be noticeable after painting. Acid brushes work real good for some areas, not as good in others. If you are not real confident about your ability to get it on, seaming after your first coats of epoxy give you the ability to sand it down and make adjustments if it doesn't look as good as you'd like.

I'd also only recommend using 2 part seam sealer. Just so much better than the old one part stuff. And if using 2 part take into account your working time is limited and is even less so on a hot day.
 
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