This is just a question so don't crucify me. I was at a ppg seminar and they were talking about painting new e-coated pieces and how you do not have to sand. Just clean, seal and shoot. They recommended this over actually scuffing the piece. I was just curious if this was also an option for Spi epoxy and Spi 2k sealer? I'm NOT referring to resto work what so ever!!! I'm talking about your daily driver type paint work.
new e-coated parts...
- Thread starter OJ86
- Start date
J
jeremyb
Maybe Barry will correct if I am wrong but has more to do with the product going over the e-coated pieces. The Turbo Primer says it right on the can "Can be used on un-sanded ecoat."
I was always told it is mainly for trimming out and to atleast red scotch the outside of the panel before sealer and paint.
Even if they say it is fine of the outside, I will still scuff. How long does it honestly take? A few more minutes of prep for peace of mind. :encouragement:
I was always told it is mainly for trimming out and to atleast red scotch the outside of the panel before sealer and paint.
Even if they say it is fine of the outside, I will still scuff. How long does it honestly take? A few more minutes of prep for peace of mind. :encouragement:
jeremyb;32856 said:
I agree, it use to be years ago Spies, SPI, Glasuit and Global all said clean and certain product would adhere just fine, like the spi sealer, epoxy and all three primers, however the e coating process was changed about 5 years ago and now 70% of the American plants have gone to the new process, thank you EPA.
Problem is you cannot tell or test to know witch one is witch and if you get the new process you will only get about 50% adhesion, so we only recommend this on inside of hood, fenders and the outside parts you sand, to be safe.
orangejuiced86;32863 said:
We always polite on here!
Also let me explain something, 2-5 times a day a guy will call me and say i have a stupid question.
I try to explain, there is no such thing as a stupid question, unless you don't ask and then call me and I have to say start over because you did not call and ask that stupid question.
Had one yesterday, guy chewed me out for not having on the label that the products needed mixing with a paint stick, after I told him you must.
That one statement hit me wrong at first, then I realized and told him, that no paint company does say use a mixing stick as the product is made for professional use and it is Ass-u-med that everyone knows, plus there is just not room to post everything on the label. Was it a dumb statement he made? NO! This was his first time with automotive paint and here nor there but I'm glad he did call first before using the product. NO SUCH thing as a stupid question, in my book!
S
Senile Old Fart
I have been purchasing a number or replacements parts for early Mustangs. I have noticed that some suppliers say the coating on their product is lacquer, others say e coat, and now there is one supplier with weld thru primer.
My question is : If rubbed with a lacquer saturated cloth and the product does not come off is it safe to scuff and shoot epoxy?
I have also read on here that some member(s) here have removed the supplied coating and found rusted metal under the coating.
The question I have here is : In this situation the coating passes the test in question 1, will scuff and epoxy seal it up and then the hidden rust become a problem at a later date?
Thanks
My question is : If rubbed with a lacquer saturated cloth and the product does not come off is it safe to scuff and shoot epoxy?
I have also read on here that some member(s) here have removed the supplied coating and found rusted metal under the coating.
The question I have here is : In this situation the coating passes the test in question 1, will scuff and epoxy seal it up and then the hidden rust become a problem at a later date?
Thanks
Senile Old Fart;32865 said:I have been purchasing a number or replacements parts for early Mustangs. I have noticed that some suppliers say the coating on their product is lacquer, others say e coat, and now there is one supplier with weld thru primer.
My question is : If rubbed with a lacquer saturated cloth and the product does not come off is it safe to scuff and shoot epoxy?
I have also read on here that some member(s) here have removed the supplied coating and found rusted metal under the coating.
The question I have here is : In this situation the coating passes the test in question 1, will scuff and epoxy seal it up and then the hidden rust become a problem at a later date?
Thanks
The solvent test is always the best test but when you come to repo of old parts a lot of the time the seller has no clue what is on them.
I have heard of vary few that were lacquer and after the shop bitches, newer parts seem to be done right, now if lacquer, I could see where there may be a rusting issue but if epoxy the procedure is different and I would not strip unless the coating was bad because we cannot duplicate the cleaning process that is done in an e-coating plant.
Some shops do automatically strip as they have been burned before, so this is one of those questions with no right answer.
B
bomccorkle
I have run into that too SOF. I have had varying degrees of ability e-coat as well. For instance I skinned the drivers door and not a chip one the whole perimeter where I had hammered it down. On the passengers side the stuff was flaking off 2 inches from where I had gotten at it with a hammer.....
B
bomccorkle
I have run into that too SOF. I have had varying degrees of ability e-coat as well. For instance I skinned the drivers door and not a chip one the whole perimeter where I had hammered it down. On the passengers side the stuff was flaking off 2 inches from where I had gotten at it with a hammer.....
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jeremyb
People often get the two confused. The stuff they are applying to reproduction panels on restos is....well whatever they have in a 55 gal drum they can get the cheapest (just a guess! LOL).
Totally different than what is on new oem parts for late models used in collision repair.
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People often get the two confused. The stuff they are applying to reproduction panels on restos is....well whatever they have in a 55 gal drum they can get the cheapest (just a guess! LOL).
Totally different than what is on new oem parts for late models used in collision repair.
Totally different than what is on new oem parts for late models used in collision repair.
- - - Updated - - -
People often get the two confused. The stuff they are applying to reproduction panels on restos is....well whatever they have in a 55 gal drum they can get the cheapest (just a guess! LOL).
Totally different than what is on new oem parts for late models used in collision repair.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
Yes, in many cases it's a good idea to remove the coating from restoration type parts as completely as possible, though it seems that more of those kinds of parts are possibly being produced at factories that also do parts for normal collision repair. As far as I have seen, most aftermarket crash parts for late model vehicles have an e-coat that is very similar to the OE.
There's nothing better than a good factory e-coat, and nothing worse than a bad factory primer job, lol.
There's nothing better than a good factory e-coat, and nothing worse than a bad factory primer job, lol.
anotheridiot
Member
fresh e coat is an excellent primer and like most primers are best a certain time after the e coat is applied. Main thing to remember, is most e coated replacement parts you can buy are overseas made, been on a boat for 6 weeks, in a dock for a few months, checked by the bigger dollar places first like goodmark, then returned and sold to the lesser stores. My guess is any e coat replacement part you get might have been coated 6 month ago. You need to get all that after stuff off by a good cleaning.