Oh wow, think I'll go through that much? You're talking the 2k primer and what...paint? Or Epoxy? I'd definitely rather have too much than have to make another quick order on a time crunch. I'm slowly setting up to fiddle with an old car or two pretty much constantly from here on, so it'll get used.
New here, about ready to order and I have questions/clarifications
- Thread starter Pacfanweb
- Start date
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
I honestly think you will use two gallons of each. But you could order a gallon of epoxy to start and see how far it goes.
Don
DanMcG
Promoted Users
I think Don is right, I'm doing the same truck, I'm almost done with the second gallon of epoxy and ordered a third, I'll probably use half of that. and I bought 1.5 gallons of Automotive Arts SS 2:1+10% hoping to do two coats, but it was suggested that I go 3-4 coats if I want to cut and buff it, so I'll be ordering more of that too.
Good to know. I'm doing just the bed for now. Need to coat the sides, and the outside of the front wall with paint, and the sides, cargo area and front wall with epoxy.
Underside was done 2 years ago with POR. I know that seems to be a dirty word here, but it's on there solid and isn't going to peel off. Got a Jeep CJ frame done with it over 10 years ago and I'm not sure you could sand blast it off. You'd have to work at it, that's for sure. I read the horror story of it peeling off someone's job, that was surely a bad experience. Had to be something else to the story, or just a bad batch of the product. I know too many people that have used it successfully for it to be all bad.
Knowing what I know now, I'd use SPI epoxy on the underside if it wasn't already coated, but that ship has sailed, so I'll just leave it. It'd be a huge job to get it back off, anyway.
So I'm thinking I'll get 2 gallons of epoxy for now, and 2 gallons of 2k, with their respective activators and some reducer for that last coat of epoxy.
2 gallons of paint as well, I guess.
Any more thoughts on spraying clear over the SS black? Wondering how common that is.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Big question for me is "why?" Unless there are graphics to bury I would leave the SS as final topcoat. The color and gloss of the SS is outstanding.
Well, the "why" is what I was trying to find out. I know some people do it and love it. It says in the instructions that it can be done, so clearly some prefer it. I was just trying to figure out what the advantages / disadvantages were. I'm sort of inclined to put three or four coats of single stage on there and be done with it after I cut and buff.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
This topic has been discussed many times and there are several threads. Here is one that you might find interesting:
Which SPI Black provides.....
.......the deepest show car shine, single stage or base coat / clear coat? Thank you,
www.spiuserforum.com
Yep, I've read that thread. Notable in there was the guy who used clear on parts and no clear in some places on the same car and said it didn't look any different.
RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
A little....
Should be getting some 710 solvent g&wr because you really need it more than the 700.
Rule of thumb is ,
700 First bare metal,plastics and general cleaning.
710 After you apply Epoxy till the End.
700 does not agree with primers and paint at all.
Read,Reread "The perfect paint job".....
Rule of thumb is ,
700 First bare metal,plastics and general cleaning.
710 After you apply Epoxy till the End.
700 does not agree with primers and paint at all.
Read,Reread "The perfect paint job".....
Already have some solvent based, just needed the water based.
And I read the perfect paint job and I don't recall seeing anything but waterborne mentioned
I didn’t see anything in there about 710 either. All I used was 700… hope I didn’t do it wrong.
700 has acetone and alcohol and whatever else Barry adds and is extremely harsh compared to 710.
Base paint especially can be actually wiped off with 700 along with a lot of other complications.
I'm surprised this isn't mentioned in the perfect paint job manifesto but Nobody I'm aware of around Here uses 700 much after applying Epoxy,Except on cured Clear after,during blocking.
It's an Excellent cleaner for nasty,greasy,filthy things but general opinion is not on paint work after epoxy is applied. 710 to the end.
Lot of threads on this. A Lot of them.
Base paint especially can be actually wiped off with 700 along with a lot of other complications.
I'm surprised this isn't mentioned in the perfect paint job manifesto but Nobody I'm aware of around Here uses 700 much after applying Epoxy,Except on cured Clear after,during blocking.
It's an Excellent cleaner for nasty,greasy,filthy things but general opinion is not on paint work after epoxy is applied. 710 to the end.
Lot of threads on this. A Lot of them.
I have a new gallon of Prep All solvent-based W&G remover I bought locally awhile back. Phone rep for SPI said it should be fine, and recommended the 700 for the bare metal before epoxy.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I actually have a little data that might be partially relevant. We just did a 1999 Silverado Crew Cab, cab only as it was going to get a flat bed. So the material use does not include the bed, which would be a lot more because beds are typically the roughest part:
Epoxy: 241 oz.
Urethane Primer: 73 oz. (only the sides needed this)
Base coat: 83 oz. (it was black, and coverage was achieved in 1.5 coats)
Euro Clear: 137 oz. (only 2 coats)
I never used to track actual material usage, but it's gotten too expensive. This was about $1000 worth of material (not all SPI, or would have been less).
Epoxy: 241 oz.
Urethane Primer: 73 oz. (only the sides needed this)
Base coat: 83 oz. (it was black, and coverage was achieved in 1.5 coats)
Euro Clear: 137 oz. (only 2 coats)
I never used to track actual material usage, but it's gotten too expensive. This was about $1000 worth of material (not all SPI, or would have been less).