New Paint Repair

ninedrvr

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I painted the unibody about a week ago. SPI epoxy primer used as a sealer mixed 1/1/1. 3 coats motobase activated 1 oz to 1 qt. 4 coats universal clear. Then this happens on the right quarter panel.

I've been following the recommendations on this website for a while. I have a pretty good idea on the repair procedure if this was old paint. Is there any differences when dealing with a new paint job?
 

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At the risk of answering every thread lately (I'm really not a know it all:)) I'll go ahead and give you my thoughts.
First you are going to have to feather that out some. Safest way would be to do it by hand. You can do it with a DA as well but if you don't have a lot of experience I'd recommend you do it by hand. 180 grit sand it until it feathers out.
If you have reached bare metal when doing so then you would want to use some epoxy on the bare metal. One coat would be enough. If you haven't hit metal than easiest way is to apply some poly glaze over the area (after you feather it out some) and block it down. Same procedure if you epoxy, only you glaze over the epoxy.
Once you have it blocked down then either epoxy or 2K urethane primer over the glaze/sanded area. Then block the primer down. If you have any sand thrus reapply primer and re-block. Then sand the entire panel with 600- 800 wet. 800 if you don't have alot of experince, if you feel confident you can sand carefully 600 would work as well. You just want to sand enough to get the texture out and flatten the clear.
Once you've sanded it, then washed and masked off the panel, you can go one of two ways. Either spot in some epoxy as a sealer or spray your base directly over the repair. If you have no sand thrus, only primer and sanded clear it is easier to base directly over. No risk of having the sealer edges show thru if not properly applied. Apply your base in the repair area. First coat should be over the repair area extend each subsequent coat out a little further. No hard stop or start areas. Your gun should be moving momentarily before you pull the trigger to start a coat and when you end it. Practice this before you do it on the panel. Being it's a solid and from the same batch of color it should blend fine provided you don't have a hard stop or start areas. Three coats should do it. If you are having issues seeing the edges you can reduce your RTS base with RTS Intercoat (SPI) 1:1 and spray another coat extending out a little farther.
Once you have the color on there clear the entire panel. Ask any questions if you have them.:)
 
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Should go without saying that you want to keep the repair area as small as possible. Also don't prime it and leave hard edges on the primer. Mask it large enough so that you don't do that.
 
The clear is where things get muddy for me. Where do I end the clear on a quarter panel?
With that car I would do the entire quarter. As long as you have clean break lines (seams) you want to do the entire panel, not spot in clear. Spotting in clear will result in eventually down the road those edges showing.
 
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Back mask (soft edge) the seams and the drop off to the trunk opening?
You can hard mask the seams. Or you could back mask. Just depends on how clean and defined the seams are. Is there a seam at the top of the trunk opening? I'm having a hard time visualizing your car.....69 correct?
 
The quarter also forms the trunk gutter. It has a soft seam between the quarter and the filler panel.
 

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The quarter also forms the trunk gutter. It has a soft seam between the quarter and the filler panel.
That would be a good candidate for backmasking. After you cut and buff (I'm assuming) it will be unnoticeable.
 
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