Newbee questions.

A

Anorexicvega

I've been reading and absorbing as much info as i can on this forum. I read Barry's the perfect paint job and it says to use epoxy as sealer before the basecoat. Why not use sealer and in what conditions or applications should sealer be used?
 
In simple terms when doing things , there can be ok, good, better ,best or what not. The biggest plus to using thinned epoxy as a sealer just before paint is getting maximum adhesion, ie, less future rock chips. I did a pretty nice bc/cc paint job for myself in the late 90's that the Dupont sealer I used is the weak link where chips chip down to. So if you like rock chips, skip the epoxy.:rolleyes:
The perfect paint job is a general write up geared towards the optimum restoration sort of paint job, not the fastest can get by methods. DA sanding raw metal, not da sanding old paint with sharp 80m grit paper is the optimum starting point where needed. Epoxy is the best starting point for raw metal and it can be used as the only primer filler in place of 2k stuff if you want the absolute best, just takes longer. Again, talking absolute, nothing wrong with good 2k primer & some spray poly primer as long as not overused.
Sealers other function is to block from seeing through old & or built up layers or different colors. Some colors such as black single stage may not need much hiding assistance, but still benefit from the extra bond on a uniform surface done with the best primer available.
 
Can epoxy be exposed to the elements? I inheritated a car that was tore apart for 20 yrs, i have it stripped to bare metal. I'd like to do the whole car in epoxy, paint the inner parts of everything and put it together and work on the body as i get time.
 
It's fine exposed. I know the black has some uv protection in it since it's so popular for a final coating for suspension, frames, under hood areas & many products.
Only thing I'll add towards time is that if a part sits for an extremely long time, it's best to scuff & hit with a fresh coat for best bonding with body fillers or other primers.
 
jlcustomz said:
It's fine exposed. I know the black has some uv protection in it since it's so popular for a final coating for suspension, frames, under hood areas & many products.
Only thing I'll add towards time is that if a part sits for an extremely long time, it's best to scuff & hit with a fresh coat for best bonding with body fillers or other primers.
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I'm going to use white. I read that about epoxy sitting or not painted, it needs a fresh coat every 2-5 yrs.
 
Anorexicvega said:
I'm going to use white. I read that about epoxy sitting or not painted, it needs a fresh coat every 2-5 yrs.
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Depends, if you're referring to parts out in the sun every day, maybe but I think you're referring to pieces stored inside or other parts not exposed to UV, then no recoat needed.
 
Barry, my plan is too strip the car to bare metal, white epoxy the whole car, paint the door jambs, under hood, trunk, any areas that get covered when bolting sheetmetal on. Then put the car together and do the body work as i drive it and get time. My dad gave me this car and i watched it sit for 20 yrs in the garage on a rotisserie. I want to drive it.
 
Got it, when you activate the white epoxy, leave in mixing a cup for 4 hours min or overnight, then stir pour in gun and shoot.
This will help us last longer.

You will be sanding with 180 and re-epoxying any panel to do any work with your plan,
keep that in mind but the white under this plan could be excellent for ten years even if no action is planned.

Do three coats for this plan.
 
Barry said:
Got it, when you activate the white epoxy, leave in mixing a cup for 4 hours min or over night, than stir poir in gun and shoot.
This will help us last longer.

You will be sanding with 180 and re-epoxying any panel to do any work with your plan,
keep that in mind but the white under this plan could be excellent for ten years even if no action is planned.

Do three coats for this plan.
Click to expand...
Thanks Barry!
 
Barry said:
Got it, when you activate the white epoxy, leave in mixing a cup for 4 hours min or overnight, then stir pour in gun and shoot.
This will help us last longer.

You will be sanding with 180 and re-epoxying any panel to do any work with your plan,
keep that in mind but the white under this plan could be excellent for ten years even if no action is planned.

Do three coats for this plan.
Click to expand...
:D
I thought we were supposed to call a doctor if it lasts more than 4 hours.
 
Barry, after the epoxy sits for four hours/overnight, does the top skim over? If it does, does that get mixed back in or removed?
 
One thing to keep in mind is going snow blind spraying white. It is very easy to spray it too heavy and get some runs - guess how I know that.
My eyes still hurt when I think about it. LOL
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
One thing to keep in mind is going snow blind spraying white. It is very easy to spray it too heavy and get some runs - guess how I know that.
My eyes still hurt when I think about it. LOL
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Lol...funny you mention this, a month ago i sprayed the top of a 65 chevy cab and i had this exact problem, poor lighting didnt help the situation.
 
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