NuMetal on windshield perimeter.

naji408

naji408

New Member
New to the body seen. Just in case you want to know how new. I just bought my dream car, a 1968 Road Runner. This will be my second restoration, the first one was a 1971 Plymouth Duster, which coincidently is my first car I ever bought when I was 15. Everything was restored by me, minus the body and paint, so the Road Runner will be my first complete project.

Question for my veterans. I bought this car from a Mopar enthusiast who supposedly restore many Mopars. I’m Questioning one thing though, he used NuMetal epoxy puddy around the perimeter of the rear windshield to cover up rust some spots. The patch isn’t on the roof, but on the channel. It looks solid, but I’m timid about spraying epoxy primer over it if it isn’t going to last and/or bubble.

Has anyone tried Numetal, and should I leave it, or go the hard route and cut it out and weld strips in?
 

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I can tell you it's not common practice. Will it last? Who knows? It is a filler. That fact that it's an epoxy is a bonus but it is not something that's commonly used. Sounds like it was a band aid type of fix instead of replacing metal. Wish I could tell you something concrete but I can't. It may last for many years it may not.
Personally I never trust unknown repairs.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
I can tell you it's not common practice. Will it last? Who knows? It is a filler. That fact that it's an epoxy is a bonus but it is not something that's commonly used. Sounds like it was a band aid type of fix instead of replacing metal. Wish I could tell you something concrete but I can't. It may last for many years it may not.
Personally I never trust unknown repairs.
Click to expand...
Good point Chris.

My assumption is that the previous owner was trying to make it look as presentable as possible before selling it. How I knew he used the putty is because there was a small rust hole I was looking at in the front, and he told me about the NuMetal and swore up and down about it.

Maybe by tomorrow someone can chime in.

I’m not 100% confident in making my own patches, and welding it, but if I have to do it I will.
 
In the 3rd pic you posted it appears your missing quit a bit of the channel lip the back window rests on. If it were me it would keep me up at night... I'd replace it. The filler looks like duraglass. Just a novices .02 worth

Filler.jpeg


John
 
Apparently a wire brush is not going to cut it. Its more like JB Weld
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kco-70004

KBS NuMetal Epoxy Putty

KBS NuMetal epoxy putty is a 2-part, easy-to-use, mix-and-mold putty that mixes like clay and hardens like steel! NuMetal epoxy putty bonds to almost anything. It will cure on vertical or damp surfaces--even underwater--without shrinking or sagging! KBS NuMetal bonds, seals, fills, insulates, anchors, caulks, and waterproofs! This product is so versatile, it can be sanded, drilled, carved, primed, and painted. It will bond to almost anything--try KBS NuMetal on your autos, marine applications, home, pool, and industrial applications--the uses are endless!
 
Looks like Rage Ultra body filler by the color. Have you tried to sand it yet?
Whatever it is, I'd remove it just so you're starting from bare metal.
 
Is the primer where your tape is done by you or was it done before you bought it? I would strip it ALL back to metal 6" back from the edge as well if you don't know what's under there, if you want this to be your forever car. I would go after it with a cookie....

www.empireabrasives.com

5" x 7/8" Easy Strip and Clean Disc

5" x 7/8" Black Hawk Abrasives Easy Strip and Clean Disc allows the operator to easy remove paint, rust, corrosion, sealants, adhesives, and many other imperfections without geometrically affecting the material beneath. This 5 inch strip and clean disc is composed of silicon carbide abrasive...
www.empireabrasives.com www.empireabrasives.com
 
DanMcG said:
Looks like Rage Ultra body filler by the color. Have you tried to sand it yet?
Whatever it is, I'd remove it just so you're starting from bare metal.
Click to expand...
Sands quite easily. Don’t know if a wire brush would do it, but a dremel for sure.
 
JimKueneman said:
Is the primer where your tape is done by you or was it done before you bought it? I would strip it ALL back to metal 6" back from the edge as well if you don't know what's under there, if you want this to be your forever car. I would go after it with a cookie....

www.empireabrasives.com

5" x 7/8" Easy Strip and Clean Disc

5" x 7/8" Black Hawk Abrasives Easy Strip and Clean Disc allows the operator to easy remove paint, rust, corrosion, sealants, adhesives, and many other imperfections without geometrically affecting the material beneath. This 5 inch strip and clean disc is composed of silicon carbide abrasive...
www.empireabrasives.com www.empireabrasives.com
Click to expand...
It was prime red by the previous owner. I’m stripping down to bare metal to epoxy primer it with SPI
 
chevman said:
Apparently a wire brush is not going to cut it. Its more like JB Weld
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kco-70004

KBS NuMetal Epoxy Putty

KBS NuMetal epoxy putty is a 2-part, easy-to-use, mix-and-mold putty that mixes like clay and hardens like steel! NuMetal epoxy putty bonds to almost anything. It will cure on vertical or damp surfaces--even underwater--without shrinking or sagging! KBS NuMetal bonds, seals, fills, insulates, anchors, caulks, and waterproofs! This product is so versatile, it can be sanded, drilled, carved, primed, and painted. It will bond to almost anything--try KBS NuMetal on your autos, marine applications, home, pool, and industrial applications--the uses are endless!
Click to expand...

KBS is another POR type company, if I recall. The ad sounds like the typical snake oil marketing campaign. I much prefer New Metal to NuMetal.
 
naji408 said:
I’m starting to build up the confidence to just cut it out, and make my own patches.
Click to expand...

You've come to the right place if you need metal fabrication advice. SPI has some master metal craftsman, you can trust their knowledge. Some of those metal craftsman go by the usernames of Astronaut, Puggsy, MP&C and BigDave.

Looking forward to following along with your project.
 
MJM said:
You've come to the right place if you need metal fabrication advice. SPI has some master metal craftsman, you can trust their knowledge. Some of those metal craftsman go by the usernames of Astronaut, Puggsy, MP&C and BigDave.

Looking forward to following along with your project.
Click to expand...
Very inviting MJM, thank you. I’m going to need a lot of help.
 
Question (although I may be in the wrong section). When I do get this down to bare metal, what’s the best way to protect it from flash rusting? Should I spray build primer on it until I’m ready to apply a coat of epoxy primer? Should I put some Fluid Film on it? Ospho? If so, (besides knowing Ospho needs to be neutralized), does fluid film need to be neutralized also prior to spraying epoxy primer?
 
naji408 said:
Question (although I may be in the wrong section). When I do get this down to bare metal, what’s the best way to protect it from flash rusting? Should I spray build primer on it until I’m ready to apply a coat of epoxy primer? Should I put some Fluid Film on it? Ospho? If so, (besides knowing Ospho needs to be neutralized), does fluid film need to be neutralized also prior to spraying epoxy primer?
Click to expand...
Clean abraded metal should be shot with epoxy primer. My brand of choice is SPI. Epoxy primer can take filler within several days without sanding, or longer with sanding. If welding needs to be done, simply remove the epoxy in the weld zones. Meanwhile, all the rest of the metal remains protected. It doesn't have to be overly complicated.
 
crashtech said:
Clean abraded metal should be shot with epoxy primer. My brand of choice is SPI. Epoxy primer can take filler within several days without sanding, or longer with sanding. If welding needs to be done, simply remove the epoxy in the weld zones. Meanwhile, all the rest of the metal remains protected. It doesn't have to be overly complicated.
Click to expand...
Yea, that’s the game plan. But I won’t be able to get the 7 day window to skim coat it. I’m taking it down to bare metal at my house, then going to tow it to my repair shop and do the welds. After, hit it with 80 grit then epoxy primer it.
 
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