Oh No

El Toro

Member
Have a Mercedes hood with a few chips on the front edge.Feathered them out to bare metal and 180 the rest as hood has a poor repaint. Shot epoxy on the complete hood. Mixed 1 to 1 with a splash of med. reducer and induction of 1 hr. just a lot of fish eyes over most of the hood. Of course SPI epoxy and reducer. Have used SPI for years and never had this reaction. Asking opinions of some of you what should I do. Plan was to spray a few coats of 2K primer over the epoxy wet sand and then to base as I have done for years. Also my shop is in the high 60's temp wise. Thanks
 
Shine is correct as usual. Sprayed too wet will bring what look like fisheyes. I've done it more than I care to talk about. Sprayed like a medium base coat should correct this.
 
Also, if that car was painted before with fish eye remover then you'll
probably have to use it too.
Or if a good wax job was on it.
 
1st coat shot way to wet .
Probably right I used a one of my DeVibiss primer guns w/ 1.5 set up. I did clean very good before sanding. Should I buzz it down and another coat of epoxy? Don't even have fish eye eliminator in my shop
 
Probably right I used a one of my DeVibiss primer guns w/ 1.5 set up. I did clean very good before sanding. Should I buzz it down and another coat of epoxy? Don't even have fish eye eliminator in my shop

It's not actually fisheyes, it's cratering which looks like fisheyes. Comes from as Shine said too wet a first coat. No need to worry about contamination. From the description of the job I would just proceed to 2k and proceed as normal. At most maybe one more coat of 2k, 3, instead of 2, that sort of thing. Worst case you re-prime and re-block.:)
 
I had a few of these as well recently, I had planned to knock them down and re-coat, but your saying build it up with 2k? Im new to the game, but wouldn't there still be a small divot where the "fisheye" is?
 
Sanded the epoxy down a little to level out the cratering some then 3 wet coats of 2K primer 15 min flash between coats. Blocked dry w/320 -400 then 600 dry sealed and then to base / clear. Looks great. May add gave it plenty of time and heat.
 
again...maybe stupid question...but is this one of those things you wont see until later? Or does the 2K just fill anything at that level? I remember reading in the old days that paint and bondo had a drying/shrinkage factor. sometimes it looks good wet, but after it fully drys it would recede a bit.
 
Back
Top