Oil in Lines

Joe in NY

Promoted Users
The rings went bad on my reciprocating air compressor and when I drained it I got some milky tan oil/water mixture. I'm in the process of rebuilding it but I was planning to do some painting soon. I'm aware of the various oil/moisture filters available but is there anything else I can do the remove the contamination that must be throughout my air lines?
 
Started with a mcmaster carr, 5164K76 Its a clear case with a bag of filter media that you can see changes, but they went up to 260.00 each and stopped selling the bag you put inside.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WZYKAE/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those have a replaceable filter, dont know if its based for oil, but I went to these just because the plastic ones got so expensive. I have heard of guys throw lacquer thinner in the line and blow it out, but never saw that cause more than problems.
 
One shop told me they flush their lines with simple green and purple power, than hooked hose up after setting a while and let it run.
Also heard of reducers/thinners being used.
 
I've been thinking along the lines of flushing the system with something. My current thinking is to remove the bung in the side of the tank and spray purple power or simple green on the inside walls as much as I can reach (I'm not crazy about the idea of atomizing something as explosive as a reducer/thinner). Then pouring the cleaning solution into the bung hole. Replace the bung, disconnect the outlet hose that feeds the air lines and plug that at the tank. Then open the drain on the bottom of the tank to flush that. Then pour more cleaning solution into the tank and connect the tanks drain port on the bottom to feed the lines. Use minimal flow and pressure to move the liquid through the lines. I'm thinking it'll probably have to be done a couple of times to really get it clean. When I'm done I'll install a good oil/moisture filter system. I should probably bypass the pressure regulator and existing filters.
 
My compressor is 21 years old and I do see some water/oil come of the of drain. It is a tall 60 gallon vertical tank so the heavier oil should collect at the tanks bottom while the air exits the top. But, oil in an aerosol form will exit the tank and collect in the pipes, even with a compressor not worn (rings are not 100% sealing). So, between purposely installed 90 degree elbows/traps to help collect the heavier contaminants in the pipes and using Motor Guard filters, I have had no contamination issues. I use the M60 & MC100 filters on the regulators output to the hose and on the spray gun and air chuck, I use the D-12 filters. I'm a hobbyist so I don't need to replace the filter media often.
 
I've been thinking along the lines of flushing the system with something. My current thinking is to remove the bung in the side of the tank and spray purple power or simple green on the inside walls as much as I can reach (I'm not crazy about the idea of atomizing something as explosive as a reducer/thinner). Then pouring the cleaning solution into the bung hole. Replace the bung, disconnect the outlet hose that feeds the air lines and plug that at the tank. Then open the drain on the bottom of the tank to flush that. Then pour more cleaning solution into the tank and connect the tanks drain port on the bottom to feed the lines. Use minimal flow and pressure to move the liquid through the lines. I'm thinking it'll probably have to be done a couple of times to really get it clean. When I'm done I'll install a good oil/moisture filter system. I should probably bypass the pressure regulator and existing filters.
with what you wrote, maybe backwards would be better. Every time we lose a compressor here, we always keep the tank to build volume. If you fill that tank with what you want to use and let that fill with air, then close it off while the air drains from the rest of the system, open it and back flush the lines back to the tank. I just say it causes more trouble because eventually whatever you use is gonna come out when you dont want it to so bulking on filters is probably better.
 
I never did this or know if it'll cause tank rust issues but..

Disconnect tank input,
Connect garden hose to bottom drain with valve off/closed,
Pour simple green or purple stuff or something milder dawn? into tank,
Turn on garden hose & fill to top,
Drain thru garden hose.
Repeat & this time connect pump line to force it out.
Once clean, do it one more time & drain thru airlines/hose.
Maybe a couple more with just water thru it all & let it blow air till cows come home.
No filters of course. When dry, blow a little more with filters installed to catch any particles.
 
The problem is not knowing what is in the purple or green stuff. Most cleaners work due to surfactants breaking the grease apart and not allowing them to stick again until they are rinsed. I would almost suggest grease and wax remover you would use during your paint process if Barry can supply 5 gallon pails.
 
True about green purple stuff. I used purple on factory painted oil pan once & it dulled but not blistered it.
Might not want that going thru copper lines ect. Possibly create powder.
Plain water with/without dawn maybe enough.
 
Anotheridiot, I'm not sure what you're proposing. I only have the one compressor tank. I have the tank itself clean. There are two good sized bungs on it and I was able to get in there and clean it with a gallon of a Zep de-greasing product and scrub with a stick and rag. What didn't drain out I vacuumed. I re-plumbed the outlet to include a new drop right at the compressor. I'm going to put together a set of Motorguard filters like MikeS suggested and use that as a dedicated paint line. None of the air for painting will go through the existing lines. I also added an industrial coalescing filter to the current lines. I think I'm going to get the compressor back together and just run the lines open and see if they clear out before I try flushing them. Thanks for everyone’s input.
 
Just getting an air source on the opposite side of the line so you push the gunk back towards the tank. Sounded like you wanted to back flush the lines.
 
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