Options for Matte/Satin Finish

Milligan

New Member
I saw older threads about the SPI flattener product and a matte SS line that used to be available. I didn’t see them on the website so I sent an email to Andy today and he notified me that they were no longer offered.

I’m renovating a 73 Mustang. I plan to do it in SPI white. I’m not sure between SS or base/Euro clear. I also plan to do hood stripes, the rear bumper, the rockers, and a few other trim pieces in Satin/Matte black. I’m not sure how to get the low luster sheen I am looking for with the current products offered through SPI. Would you guys give me some guidance on this? Maybe simply use the epoxy primer with a long induction?

I’m also wondering how to do a different sheen stripe on a gloss hood. Normally you’d prime, seal, base, intercoat (optional), mask for stripes, spray stripe, then continue to clear. But with a different sheen I’m guess I do the stripes after the clear. But I’m unsure how to not have a defined masking line if I do that. Maybe I simply mask the stripe area after the final clear and then do a single matte clear pass over the stripe? Then gingerly buff the line out? Maybe just use vinyl? Not quite sure which direction to go in. I’m looking for the “normal” way to do it from the pros.

Lastly, Ford blessed the 73 Mustang with a large plastic bumper…. I know it was one of the first attempts from car manufacturers to make plastic bumpers so a lot of what I’ve read about painting plastic bumpers may not be applicable to me. Do I prep that plastic the same as as metal? DA80 grit then epoxy? Adhesive promoter? The plastic seems softer/rubbery compared to modern plastics.

To recap:

1: Matte/Satin options from SPI? If not, what would you recommend?
2: Best practices for doing matte/satin stripes?
3: 73 Mustang plastic bumper prep, adhesion promoter?

Thanks guys! I have a lot to learn and am very grateful for this forum and its resources.
 
Ya, you're going to have an edge. Can't buff matte. The matte is done after the gloss. I would much rather use paint than vinyl, as you will end up with an edge either way. Trash in the paint can't be buffed, but large pieces of vinyl have there own imperfections. Do not use 80# on plastic, it will make a furry mess. 180#, then water sand with 320# before primer. Cut off a small sliver of the plastic, and see if it floats. If it does, use adhesion promoter. If it sinks, straight to epoxy after cleaning with 700. You could clear the whole hood after applying the black, then go back and spray matte clear over just the black. A smaller edge that way, but still an edge. 2 coats are required for longevity purposes.
 
First time I used the SPI matte was an overall on a C5 Vette. I was impressed with how nice it laid out. Too bad that they are not making it anymore Demand just isn't there for the stuff. The car I did was the only matte overall I've done.
Hopefully JimC will respond. He could recommend a flattener. Utech is what he uses IIRC. And if anyone can do it without an edge it would be Jim, but like the boys said above it's pretty much impossible.
 
Does the flattening agent go bad over time? I have 2 quarts of it on my shelf still.
 
Are you saying SPI is not making the Matte clear anymore? I bought a gal back in the late fall and just sprayed a 96 Bronco removeable roof/cap on Monday and same here layed out great and customer very happy with results on this restoration..Will this be permanet decision ?
 
The matte clear and matte black are gone from the price list. I thought only the flattener was discontinued but apparently they all were. Disappointing.

Don
 
i really hate to write this since spi makes such great products but i am happy to see the matte clear and flattener no longer listed on their website. the matte clear had issues. it should only have been used on show cars or interior items that dont see uv or weather. over time it gets super cloudy/milky. i have some things that were done where it got so cloudy you couldnt see the base color or metallic anymore. it was not a bad batch or anything. i have been using the matte clear since it came out and every job i ever did with it over the years had this issue. if its an exterior item then you will see it start within the first six mos. the one great thing was that their matte products were the easiest to spray without striping of anything matte i have ever sprayed from any company. the stuff was beautiful. it was just a show car only product and would have been fine if it was labeled as such. the matte black i never had an issue with because of course its not clear so you could never tell it was getting cloudy. that always stayed looking good in my experience. @eltoro, if that was done in matte clear i would scuff it and shoot it with any of the spi clears with a different flattener added to it. utech makes 2 flatteners. 890 which is good for clear or basically anything. you wont have any of the issues above. i usually use universal clear. they also make f100 flattener. this is for ss only. dont mix it into clearcoat.
 
The matte clear and matte black are gone from the price list. I thought only the flattener was discontinued but apparently they all were. Disappointing.

Don
Disappointing for sure. The matte black was really nice.

Another great option for the hotrod black is the XL matte black.
 
I just used a satin single stage paint- gonna have an edge - can’t avoid it but the factory had an edge too
 

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I just used a satin single stage paint- gonna have an edge - can’t avoid it but the factory had an edge too

That looks great. I actually think the matte SS looks better than having the black buried in the clear and a clear coat edge. That looks like what they’d do from the factory. Thanks for the pic. Do you mind recommending the product you used?

Didn't know about the matte black being gone.:mad:

That was the first one that came up during my search. I was excited to see the product then noticed it wasn’t in the list. A matte SS seems like it would be the best option for me after giving it some thought.

i really hate to write this since spi makes such great products but i am happy to see the matte clear and flattener no longer listed on their website. the matte clear had issues. it should only have been used on show cars or interior items that dont see uv or weather. over time it gets super cloudy/milky. i have some things that were done where it got so cloudy you couldnt see the base color or metallic anymore. it was not a bad batch or anything. i have been using the matte clear since it came out and every job i ever did with it over the years had this issue. if its an exterior item then you will see it start within the first six mos. the one great thing was that their matte products were the easiest to spray without striping of anything matte i have ever sprayed from any company. the stuff was beautiful. it was just a show car only product and would have been fine if it was labeled as such. the matte black i never had an issue with because of course its not clear so you could never tell it was getting cloudy. that always stayed looking good in my experience. @eltoro, if that was done in matte clear i would scuff it and shoot it with any of the spi clears with a different flattener added to it. utech makes 2 flatteners. 890 which is good for clear or basically anything. you wont have any of the issues above. i usually use universal clear. they also make f100 flattener. this is for ss only. dont mix it into clearcoat.

Thanks for the first hand experience. The intentions for this car is to be a driver, but not a daily or anything. It will be garaged when not in use. It won’t be hidden nearly year-round like a show car so it will need adequate UV protection.

I have used SEM hotrod black for flat stripes etc in the past. It lays out very nice. Price is a little high though.

Don


Is this the paint you are talking about? Price is a bit steep but its for small pieces so shouldn’t be too bad.

Are you saying SPI is not making the Matte clear anymore? I bought a gal back in the late fall and just sprayed a 96 Bronco removeable roof/cap on Monday and same here layed out great and customer very happy with results on this restoration..Will this be permanet decision ?

I’m only relaying what I was told from SPI in an email. Perhaps one of their representatives could chime in and let us know if it is a supply issue or a product decision.

First time I used the SPI matte was an overall on a C5 Vette. I was impressed with how nice it laid out. Too bad that they are not making it anymore Demand just isn't there for the stuff. The car I did was the only matte overall I've done.
Hopefully JimC will respond. He could recommend a flattener. Utech is what he uses IIRC. And if anyone can do it without an edge it would be Jim, but like the boys said above it's pretty much impossible.

Thanks for the advice! I’m okay with a slight edge now after seeing Dave’s picture. That looks like a factory job.

Ya, you're going to have an edge. Can't buff matte. The matte is done after the gloss. I would much rather use paint than vinyl, as you will end up with an edge either way. Trash in the paint can't be buffed, but large pieces of vinyl have there own imperfections. Do not use 80# on plastic, it will make a furry mess. 180#, then water sand with 320# before primer. Cut off a small sliver of the plastic, and see if it floats. If it does, use adhesion promoter. If it sinks, straight to epoxy after cleaning with 700. You could clear the whole hood after applying the black, then go back and spray matte clear over just the black. A smaller edge that way, but still an edge. 2 coats are required for longevity purposes.

Thanks for the advice on the bumper and the stripe. I’m thinking there are two ways I can go. Do the entire hood white, then clear it. Then do a SS satin/matte black for the stripe. Or I could lay the black over the white then clear, then mask and do the matte clear. Either approach seems sound and gives me the results I want. I think the SS matte route would be “easier” since I do not have to worry about an intercoat.

Thanks for the tips guys! I noticed no one recommended using the epoxy with a long induction time. The hood is probably not the best spot for the epoxy due to UV?
 
I used some ppg paint - don’t really know - my jobber said “ try this”. I know I played with the reducer a bit for proper sheen but not much AND played with the number of coats cause that will make a difference too
 
I've used this per the customer requests in the past and I really liked the finish along with SPI. SEM Hotrod black, while it is nice is abit pricey IMO.

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