Paint prep question after previous owner start.

R

RWT

My project is a 1954 Ford F100 pickup mostly stock restoration. The truck was in pieces when I bought it. I've completed the frame and drive train work and have been working on individual body panels in preparation for painting. With no prior experience in auto body work it's been a challenge but generally the results are good so far. I'm ready to begin work on the cab and need some help. The previous owner had a body shop do some work on the cab only. I'm guessing the work was done in the early 1990's. The cab body work is done. The interior, door jambs, window jambs, and firewall are finish painted with (I believe) old school acrylic enamel. The remainder of the cab is in a mustard yellow primer.

My plan is paint the truck inside and out with SPI Medium Red BC/CC. My question is, how should I proceed on the partially complete cab? Do I need to epoxy over everything first or can I go directly to 2K primer? What sanding steps are needed to rough up the existing finished paint before covering?
Thank you
Bob
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I would scuff up the new finish with a red scuff pad then apply a sealer coat of epoxy primer.
Then you can do whatever you want.
If some areas are easy to sand you can sand it instead of the scuff pad, I'd use 320
 
I appreciate your advise JC. Yesterday I used some 320 on a test area of the finished red and was surprised when there was no red dust on the paper. Guess I was wrong about it being enamel.
Should I continue the same prep process?
Is the sealer epoxy coat applied as reduced epoxy or regular un-reduced?
Thanks again
Bob
 
You do realize that the early 90's was almost 30 years ago? (not being a smart ass) That's a looong time for something sitting in primer (probably PPG K200 urethane judging from the look and the time period). Has it been indoors since? Urethane absorbs moisture, regardless of being indoors or not and rust forms actually underneath the primer when sitting like that for an extended period of time. Not corrosive but surface type rust that eventually causes the coatings to let go and peel or blister. Pretty big risk painting over unknown bodywork like that. Really should be stripped. Probably not what you want to hear but it's the truth.
 
Anytime epoxy is calling for a sealer coat it means a over reduced epoxy.
Usually like 1:1:1 ratio.

And Chris is right about sitting that long is not good.
 
Thank you Chris and JC. Yes it has been a long time in primer but not as long as I thought. I went back into my records. My time estimate is wrong. I bought this truck in 2006 for a retirement project. The work had been done a year or two prior. The truck was in the previous owners garage when I bought it and mine since then.
You got me scratching my head on what to do. Been looking so forward to driving it and this would be quite a setback.
Thanks again.
Bob
 
If the previous owner put DP under that K200, I would not be worried. If the bodywork was done over bare metal then primed with 2K, I would be worried about surface rust. Maybe sand a few small spots back to metal just to see what it looks like for piece of mind.
 
Unfortunately, if the work was done after 2000 it is most likely DPLF if PPG. Had it been done in the early 90’s just maybe it would have been the origional DP.

I really mourned the loss of DP epoxy until I discovered Southern Polyurethane's finest. :):):)
 
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