Pinholes

Joe in NY

Joe in NY

Promoted Users
After sanding the UC with 1000 grit I've noticed a few areas with these pinholes. They appear to go down to the blue base coat and not below. Some are in areas that has filler under it and other places it's just paint over steel. In the photo, the white holes are just holes full of sanding debris. They look larger in the photo than they are. They're actually only around .010" diameter. This is a driver so I'm probably not going to attempt to eliminate the pinholes but I'm just curious as to what caused them.
 

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Those look like fisheyes. If they were only where the filler was I would guess pinholes in the filler, but since they are in other areas, they are fisheyes caused by contamination, either airborne, or more likely, from your air supply. They are not hard to fix, just dab a little mixed clear in the holes with a toothpick, paper clip, or small paintbrush, let them dry, then block those spots with 1000. Just make sure you get the holes clean before you dab them.
 
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Thanks TK, I'll give that a try. I've got mix some clear to re-shoot a panel anyway. I sanded through the clear in one small spot. I guess I don't know what "Fish Eyes" are. I thought they were the little imperfections that look like a bulls eye with a ring around it. I've got plenty of those but they all sand out. These are just craters - at least they are when I find them after sanding. I'll see if I can find some unsanded tomorrow.
 
Joe, my last pinhole issue (looked like pin sized holes) i'll guess was too fast activator for temp & inferior airline filter.
This clear is fun to work with as you'll see. Can always add more coats, block it, buffs to mirror finish.
 
texasking said:
Those look like fisheyes. If they were only where the filler was I would guess pinholes in the filler, but since they are in other areas, they are fisheyes caused by contamination, either airborne, or more likely, from your air supply. They are not hard to fix, just dab a little mixed clear in the holes with a toothpick, paper clip, or small paintbrush, let them dry, then block those spots with 1000. Just make sure you get the holes clean before you dab them.
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Texasking
Ok, stupid Noob question here - but if they are fisheyes caused by contamination wouldn't the contamination cause a problem if you put a drop of clear in the hole? Or is it contamination now locked away/inert?

Sorry for the thread hijack

Chris
 
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Those don't like fish eyes to me but rather the result of dust on the clear. When you sanded it the dust speck was removed leaving a hole in the surface of the clear.
Fish Eyes
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Dust
Dust mark.JPG


If you have enough clear on there you could sand it out but the danger is sanding through if you don't have enough clear.
Filling the pits with clear as outlined above will definitely help get things level and ready for the next couple of coats of clear.
 
SprintCC said:
Texasking
Ok, stupid Noob question here - but if they are fisheyes caused by contamination wouldn't the contamination cause a problem if you put a drop of clear in the hole? Or is it contamination now locked away/inert?

Sorry for the thread hijack

Chris
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That is why I said to clean the holes first. Wiping with 700 or 710 will draw the contamination out of the hole.
 
I had 2 or 3 of these on my truck and they are different than dust, sunk in more and dont have the halo that dust has. I could never really come up with a cause for them as I always felt like I was pretty thorough about stuff, some sort of contamination from somewhere was always my assumption.
 
In some cases it can be solvent pop. Bubbles of solvent trapped just below the surface and when sanding the tops are removed leaving a small crater.
 
Although could be solvent pop but looks more like fish eyes to me. If you have to re-spray anyway I would go ahead & block them out. You mentioned that you sanded through the clear coat to the base. You will have to re-shoot your base coat where you sanded through at as the base-coat will show the sanding scratches once re-cleared. Also I have as mentioned before cleaned the fish eyes with wax & grease remover then take a small blunted point object with 1000 grit paper or even a green scuff pad to de-gloss the fish eye & dab some clear in there if you don’t plan on re-clearing panel. Then block smooth & buff.
 
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