Polyvance products for urethane bumper

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My 1995 Corvette bumper needs some love. I took out a few chunks (non-floaters) scraping the paint off with a razor blade and heat gun. It has some waves in it also. I am planning on using Polyvance Flex Filler 2 to straighten things out. I am also curious about this Black Jack Primer. Has anyone ever used it and would it be compatible with SPI products? Thank you

Edit: non-floaters not floaters
 
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Epoxy primer is going to be superior to the primer you linked to. That primer is geared more towards production. Epoxy is rarely used in collision repair because of the time it takes to cure. Epoxy is ideal for covers because of it's flexibility. So after you strip it clean, wash it with dawn and a red scotchbrite pad. Then 700 W&G remover. Then apply one coat per the instructions of SPI 600 Adhesion Promoter. Then apply 2 to 3 coats of epoxy (unreduced). Apply the flex filler over the epoxy after 24 (min) - 48(ideal) hours at minimum 70 degrees. When you finish your filler work, apply 2-3 coats more coats of epoxy. Remember to apply ad-pro to any bare plastic spots before you do. Ideally only use epoxy and not any 2K urethane.
Doing it this way is about as bulletproof as you can get with a plastic bumper. Adhesion, flexibility, and chip resistance will be as good as can be done on a plastic bumper if you do it this way.
 
Epoxy primer is going to be superior to the primer you linked to. That primer is geared more towards production. Epoxy is rarely used in collision repair because of the time it takes to cure. Epoxy is ideal for covers because of it's flexibility. So after you strip it clean, wash it with dawn and a red scotchbrite pad. Then 700 W&G remover. Then apply one coat per the instructions of SPI 600 Adhesion Promoter. Then apply 2 to 3 coats of epoxy (unreduced). Apply the flex filler over the epoxy after 24 (min) - 48(ideal) hours at minimum 70 degrees. When you finish your filler work, apply 2-3 coats more coats of epoxy. Remember to apply ad-pro to any bare plastic spots before you do. Ideally only use epoxy and not any 2K urethane.
Doing it this way is about as bulletproof as you can get with a plastic bumper. Adhesion, flexibility, and chip resistance will be as good as can be done on a plastic bumper if you do it this way.
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I mistakenly typed floaters when they are non-floaters. Sorry for that. I guess I can skip the adpro? Thanks
 
If it sinks then correct no ad-pro needed. Been a long time since I did a C4 cover so I can't remember if they were urethane or not. Maybe someone else can comment on whether they were urethane. If you are confident in your test then no you don't need it.
 
Yeah those are urethane. One giveaway is that the material should be beige or yellowish and will sand cleanly, unlike TPO which will get very fuzzy especially when using coarser grits.
 
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