Presta

I recently got a 3M kit of "Perfect-it" compounds and was
amazed how good it was.
I use to use 3M Hvy Duty when I was in a hurry because it was fast,
This Perfect-It compound cuts as fast and has no grit in it.
It feels like hand lotion, I don't see how it cuts so good-but it does.
And I don't get the pig-tail scratches I got with the hvy duty.
These kits from 3M have a quart each of compound, polish, &
swirl remover. They can be found on Ebay too.
They're about half the cost of buying them seperate.
this is now my favorite cutting compound, for wool or foam.
 
What is going to be the least expensive and the safest method for someone who doesn't have a lot of wetsanding and buffing experience? I don't have a random orbit sander, and everybody knows what those trizac discs cost. It sounds like everyone does this a little different so they get the best results per time spent. My main cocern is not burning all the paint off because I dont know what Im doing. A friend of mine is reshooting his thunderbird because he messed up buffing. It was single stage paint.

Actually, I have an electric ROS for wood working. Could I put trizac on it?
 
safest and least expensive method would be to skip the sander IMO, apply 3 coats of clear minimum-4 coats would be better, wetsand with 1000 grit, then 1500, then 2000 and wash the panels, use a wool pad at low speed with a medium compound like presta ultra or 3m extra cut and buff untill the scratches are gone, follow that up with a foam pad at Low speed with the presta blue swirl remover. If you are new to this you'll want to go at it slow
 
strum456;4845 said:
Actually, I have an electric ROS for wood working. Could I put trizac on it?
Click to expand...

You could, and it will work, just a lot slower.
But for buffing you definitly need a buffer.
An electric random orbital will take forever, I use them for wood too
but for car buffing you need something more aggressive,
that spins faster and orbits slower, like an air sander.
Most electric buffers spin only with no orbits.
up to 3000 RPM.
You need RPM's, not orbits per minute.
 
I think I'll take your advice and go to 2000, then just take it easy with the buffer.

I have a regular buffer, I was asking about using the electric ROS just for doing some ultra fine trizac sanding before buffing. Is it too slow for that?
 
Shine,

So I tape all the crowns, beads, edges, etc. for wet sand and cutting. Then do I take it off for polishing?
 
leave it on until final polish. door edges and such dont need a whole lot of work. i'll use several rolls on a car. just pay attention to the pad. if it hits one spot while polishing another tape it.
 
strum456;4858 said:
I was asking about using the electric ROS just for doing some ultra fine trizac sanding before buffing. Is it too slow for that?
Click to expand...

You know, it just may work.
I have found slowing down my air finish sander makes it work much better
for those fine grits. and I have used a elec. "right angle" RO sander and it
works real good too.
Only because the "right angle" ones spin faster than the palm types.
But if you're talking about the palm type woodworking RO, I don't know.
Give it a try and let us know.
I think it'll work, probably a little slower is all.
But slower seems to help with it not loading up as fast on fine grits.:cool:
 
I wouldn't ever recommend wool for a newbie either. I burnt more paint learning to buff with wool. Keep that wheel humping also. Never stop in one spot to concentrate on an area. I use wide sweeping patterns and check surface temp occasionally with my hand to keep it cool. My 84 year old grandfather has a tendency to heat paint so bad that it blisters. He can't see it but it used to drive me nuts. That 3m compound came out a couple years ago and works much better than the compound that it replaces. I think it does a nicer job than the presta. Trizact is expensive but I could never achieve a perfect mirror finish without it. No matter what I used straight line sand scratches just won't dissapear without a little bit of random DA love.
 
jcclark;4816 said:
I recently got a 3M kit of "Perfect-it" compounds and was
amazed how good it was.
I use to use 3M Hvy Duty when I was in a hurry because it was fast,
This Perfect-It compound cuts as fast and has no grit in it.
It feels like hand lotion, I don't see how it cuts so good-but it does.
And I don't get the pig-tail scratches I got with the hvy duty.
These kits from 3M have a quart each of compound, polish, &
swirl remover. They can be found on Ebay too.
They're about half the cost of buying them seperate.
this is now my favorite cutting compound, for wool or foam.
Click to expand...

i totally agree with you jim. almost no grit and works a little faster with almost no swirls. i used to use the presta but like the 3m way better now. the presta, while really good, was a mess also. the 3m you have next to no clean up when done. it doesn't like to work out coarse sanding scratches though. definately for 2000 and up.
 
Jim C;4905 said:
i totally agree with you jim. almost no grit and works a little faster with almost no swirls. i used to use the presta but like the 3m way better now. the presta, while really good, was a mess also. the 3m you have next to no clean up when done. it doesn't like to work out coarse sanding scratches though. definately for 2000 and up.
Click to expand...

thats funny i practically switched to presta over 3m.. i noticed that 3m is watered down.. has to much fillers and u have to use ALOT compared to presta. i notice less clean up with presta for the fact that i use wayyy less material on a panel then 3m. i can also straight wetsand with 1500 only and presta works easy and fast to get those scratches out.
 
Well, we all do things differently and should use the product that best works for us.
I guess that's why there's so many to choose from.
There's also a lot of different 3M compounds, and some I don't like too.
But sombody, somewhere must like the others, or they wouldn't keep selling it.
I think even the paint type/brand will make a differenc in which compound works the best.
A hard clear verses a soft clear changes everything for me.
I haven't used Presta but plan to, I'm sure it's a good product.
I've heard it doesn't have the glaze in it like the others, that's a real plus.
 
That is funny. The 3m is expensive but i use 3 times less compared to presta. I usually buff at a table in one place and.when im done the floor ajd my shoes are caked in ultra cutting creme. I find the presta thick, oily and gooey and turns into a mess. I just dont get any of that with the 3m. Just goes to show how funny a process buffing is. Ask 50 different people their process and they will all be different. As jim said you.gotta find a product that works for you. I think the biggest thing that plays a factor in all this is the clear you are trying to buff. Some compounds work better with hard clear some work better with softer clears.
 
Jim C. and Jim C.

You are not kidding about people having totally different methods when it comes to wetsanding/buffing. I'll bet the type of clear would make a difference. I am confused though, I thought there was only one type of clear for overall show quality work: SPI Universal.
 
Even SPI has different clears with different hardeneses,
And there's some that swear each one is the best.
 
One thing I have learned is this.. Time is money.. Sometimes allot of money.. So whatever you can use do to the job the fastest and produce the highest quality job is what I think a person should use..

Im thinking of giving the chemical guys a shot that Shine speaks so highly of.. Ive been using Body Magic for years as my initial cutting compound, but my jobber quit carrying it..
 
cleancut was the first new polish i tried years ago. always worked well. they have come a long way since. i got sidetracked with 3m then another brand and just have not ordered any in a while. this next job will get the new pads and the new compounds. i may even spring for a new buffer. i'm tired of this heavy b&d .
 
Shine, give 3M extracut a try for your first cut, it is aggressive but the grit size is small so there's no swirl problems-I haven't found a faster compound. I used superduty for years and then perfect-it but the extracut is far better. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECIE20S4K7_nid=96ZHHMQCHSgs9NQK7NZ8TZgl7NL0GPFM8Rbl

This stuff works good for a next step:http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/home_leisure/-/node_VNSHFK26WXgs/root_GS2MT8MCQBgv/vroot_BWFLZ648DFge/bgel_GW36NS2ZQ2bl/gvel_S8T98HHNWHgl/theme_us_chimpartnersupport_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

There's another 3M polish I use for the final round but I can't remember which part number-there is one that's actually called a glaze but it isn't-the label states it's a nonfilling product and it has a very very fine abrasive, Presta's blue polish also works good.
 
i tried the perfect-it then 3m sent me a 3000 trial kit years ago but i just couldn't get it to work for me. the problem is i have never buffed at high speed. i think that is the problem with presta . i just dont use enough speed. i buff at 1000 . this comes from all the years with lacquer. i ordered a new set up from the chemical guys because i have used it for years. my old b&d is getting tired and the damn thing weighs a ton. i got it years ago when my flex wore out. the new flex buffers are light weight and have new tech motors that are really smooth. i'll get to use it on the 37 .
 
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