Primer Adhesion to Evaporust?

mitch_04

Learnin'
I commonly use Evaporust to toss bolts and small items in to remove rust. Will epoxy adhere to these bolts? After cleaning with W&G remover of course.
 
Sure but not great, you may end up with 50% adhesion but you may want to test and see if that will suit you.
 
That's what I'm thinking I will do. I knew Evaporust works a little differently than most rust removers, but I wasn't positive if it affects adhesion like other rust removers/convertors do. Would there be a good solution to soak them in after the Evaporust has removed the rust? Like a rubbing alcohol or something?
 
Bob, what media do you use in your tumbler? I have tried sand and aluminum oxide and am not happy with the results. Thanks
 
I've used tumblers for cartridge reloading and had decent luck. I've seen stainless media tumblers that do amazing. The reason I chose Evaporust is that it doesn't eat the steel, just the rust, so it can be used on more sensitive items. I had some wrist pins that had just the slightest amount of surface rust, they were NOS from a 1970 Datsun 2000, and the Evaporust took it off without any abrasion. Maybe its a snake oil and I'll have regrets down the road, but from most all the reviews I've read it seems to be a great item. It's very easy to toss small parts in and just let it soak, they won't get eaten away if they are left too long. Once the rust is gone, that's it.

I am still interested in other solutions for small parts, so keep the info coming!

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I've used tumblers for cartridge reloading and had decent luck. I've seen stainless media tumblers that do amazing. The reason I chose Evaporust is that it doesn't eat the steel, just the rust, so it can be used on more sensitive items. I had some wrist pins that had just the slightest amount of surface rust, they were NOS from a 1970 Datsun 2000, and the Evaporust took it off without any abrasion. Maybe its a snake oil and I'll have regrets down the road, but from most all the reviews I've read it seems to be a great item. It's very easy to toss small parts in and just let it soak, they won't get eaten away if they are left too long. Once the rust is gone, that's it.

I am still interested in other solutions for small parts, so keep the info coming!
 
Mitch, I've used evaporust on nuts and bolts with good results. The problem I have is the cost. I use about a quart at a time, and the next time I try to use it, it doesn't work any more. I'm looking for a more cost effective way to treat the small parts. I have a cast iron part that I put in evaporust. Only half was submerged, and it came out clean. Then I put the whole thing in an electrolysis bath. After scrubbing it when it came out, it was clean. It has been sitting on my workbench for about a year now. The half that was done in evaporust is still mostly clean, the other half is covered in rust.
 
Interesting... so far I've had pretty good luck with using it multiple times. They do recommend rinsing off any part before you put it in, that would probably help it last longer as well. It is amazing how well it works though.
 
Mitch, you are doing smaller parts so it will last longer for you. It only cleans a specified area of rust (X number of sq in), depending on how bad the rust is. Master Series is reusable and does the same thing, but a lot more expensive and doesn't leave an etch for paint either. You might get a spot blaster and rig some sort of enclosure if you don't have a blast cabinet.

Or you could also send the nuts and bolts out to be zinc plated, that doesn't need any scratch for adhesion. If you clean it yourself its not very expensive, they just toss it in a small barrel.
 
I bought a decent tumbler setup a few years ago for hardware but it sucks. You use wet media and it buzzes around for 20 hours or so and if you pull the plug and go inside at night everything is a ball of rust by morning. I haven't used it in years. It would work great for brass cases using a corn media or so to clean them but sure didn't work worth a crap for hardware. I should throw some 80 grit aluminum ozide in there dry and see what happens.

I know tumblers are out there that could meet my needs but I'm pretty sure I couldn't afford them. I had close to 300 invested into my boat anchor.

I prep all my hardware and either replate it myself or use an industrial plater but I always end up at the blast cabinet with a fine glass beads that say it does not change dimensional tolerances. (Trinco, trinsbeads #9 or #13 depending on how fine)

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I bought a decent tumbler setup a few years ago for hardware but it sucks. You use wet media and it buzzes around for 20 hours or so and if you pull the plug and go inside at night everything is a ball of rust by morning. I haven't used it in years. It would work great for brass cases using a corn media or so to clean them but sure didn't work worth a crap for hardware. I should throw some 80 grit aluminum ozide in there dry and see what happens.

I know tumblers are out there that could meet my needs but I'm pretty sure I couldn't afford them. I had close to 300 invested into my boat anchor.

I prep all my hardware and either replate it myself or use an industrial plater but I always end up at the blast cabinet with a fine glass beads that say it does not change dimensional tolerances. (Trinco, trinsbeads #9 or #13 depending on how fine)
 
I have access to a blast cabinet. I use Evaporust mainly for the ease of use, just drop in the bolts and grab them a few days later. If I do run into adhesion problems I will have to go back to blasting all of the bolts. At least adhesion failure on bolts isn't quite the same as on a large panel, easier to fix.

Would the adhesion problem be an instant thing, or would it be a down the road type of deal? What should I look for as far as warning signs, other than flaking paint!

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I have access to a blast cabinet. I use Evaporust mainly for the ease of use, just drop in the bolts and grab them a few days later. If I do run into adhesion problems I will have to go back to blasting all of the bolts. At least adhesion failure on bolts isn't quite the same as on a large panel, easier to fix.

Would the adhesion problem be an instant thing, or would it be a down the road type of deal? What should I look for as far as warning signs, other than flaking paint!
 
Brad J.;31960 said:
I bought a decent tumbler setup a few years ago for hardware but it sucks. You use wet media and it buzzes around for 20 hours or so and if you pull the plug and go inside at night everything is a ball of rust by morning. I haven't used it in years. It would work great for brass cases using a corn media or so to clean them but sure didn't work worth a crap for hardware. I should throw some 80 grit aluminum ozide in there dry and see what happens.
Brad, I tried AO, and sand. It doesn't clean deep down into the threads good enough, and it slightly rounds over the the edges. I have also tried glass bead and it doesn't do much of anything. The tumbler is great for things like lug nuts and chrome trim pieces. Corn cob and polish, turn it on and walk away.
 
You can't be using what I use for glass beads then. I can run through an entire cars worth of hardware in a couple hours in the cabinet and they come out perfect.

I thought the tumbler would be a great way to free up time but it won't touch the cabinet for time and quality.

I use a glass bead for cleaning aluminum but it's so fine it's not effective at rust remover. I can't remember the # for that stuff.
 
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