Primer guide coat

RosharonRooster

Promoted Users
I once saw a guy. After the last coat of 2k primer, while still wet...he poured some black basecoat in whatever primer was left in the gun, then sprayed it all over the car very fast and at about 2 ft distance. Guide coat the whole car in a few seconds, is this a common thing. I'd never seen anyone do that.... but then again I'm a rookie
 
The concept sounds interesting but I've never done it.

With the SPI regular build grey primer, you don't even need a guide coat for the first round of block sanding. It dries a darker shade of grey on the surface so it is easy to see when everything is sanded.

After that, the 3M Dry Guide Coat goes on quite easily and one container will do multiple cars, so probably a lot cheaper than adding black base coat to the primer.

I too would like to hear if any others have done this and/or comment on it.
 
I keep the black and white turbo primers, using color needed depending on vehicle. I will mix a small amount of contrasting primer needed. After mixing normal, then reduce 100% spraying as a guide coat.
 
adding base to primer would take alot of base to really change the color and your just adding extra material that you need to remove. guide coat can be anything but you dont want to use something with build. overreduced black base like shine said is great. cheap flat black rattle can paint works. the 3m dry stuff works but takes forever to apply to a big area or whole car. dykem blue layout dye reduced down works fantastic. thats all they use in the boat building industry. i do so much guide coating on the white 2k sealer that i ended up buying a qt of raw black pigment used for waterbase paints. i keep a cheap $20 gun full of water and just add small squirt of the pigment. shake it up and spray it on. no fumes or mess. dries fast and there is literally nothing to sand off. your just spraying carbon and water.
 
Lots of good idead here. I generally keep some rattle can guide coat laying around, SEM or similar. Right after i spray my last coat of primer, i dust some on. That way the car is masked up and it only gets where you want it
 
The rattle can black primer that Wal-Mart sells works real good.
It's lacquer and not any build, just make sure you get the one
that says "sandable".
I myself keep some black lacquer primer, thinned a lot, and in a can just for
guide coats. Spraying a guide coat with my regular spray gun
gives a much more uniform finish than a spray can.
It's the only thing I found lacquer primer good for-guide coats.
 
The rattle can black primer that Wal-Mart sells works real good.
It's lacquer and not any build, just make sure you get the one
that says "sandable".
I myself keep some black lacquer primer, thinned a lot, and in a can just for
guide coats. Spraying a guide coat with my regular spray gun
gives a much more uniform finish than a spray can.
It's the only thing I found lacquer primer good for-guide coats.
Newbie here,the spray gets deep into heavy scratches.Easy to see where it needs more blocking.+1 for cheap rattle can primer.
 
I know whatever guide coat gets used, it's going to stay in the low spots after blocking. Does 100% of it have to be removed before using filler?
 
I once saw a guy. After the last coat of 2k primer, while still wet...he poured some black basecoat in whatever primer was left in the gun, then sprayed it all over the car very fast and at about 2 ft distance. Guide coat the whole car in a few seconds, is this a common thing. I'd never seen anyone do that.... but then again I'm a rookie

When I was using House of Kolor epoxy (the pea green stuff), I would add black base to the last coat to act as a guide coat. I bought some of the 3M dry guide coat about the same time I started using SPI epoxy. And since it isn't needed with the black epoxy, I've never used it.
 
I've used left over base from an old project reduced.
251.jpg
 
Back
Top