Proper steps on 67 Mustang project for first timer

V

vidkidruss

Hello. I've been reading a ton, learned quite a bit but want to run my project by those who know more. Here's the details:
  • 67 Mustang coupe, down to the shell now and I have to make some decisions on the next steps.
  • Metal I know I need to replace: both floorpans, floor supports, and toe kicks, torque box, driver side rocker panel, trunk dropdowns, cowl and drip rails
  • Replacement metal is mix of e-coated steel, weld-thru primer and unprimed.
  • Body panels have mild rust but will need lots of beating and filler
  • I want to have the shell and other parts media blasted so I can start fresh as there is no good paint on the car
  • I like the Red Oxide epoxy primer option and feel this is what I should start with on coatings
  • This is my first full restore. I work well, but very SLOW
I'm conflicted if I should do the media blasting first because I know that I'll need to apply the epoxy primer soon after. This will mean that I will have the shell, doors, hood, etc in epoxy primer for probably a year while I work on all the metal. I've read that I will need to resand the epoxy primer to prep it for say a 2K medium build primer and any filler I use. I'm assuming that also means the door jambs, any nook cranny, etc that has 1yr old epoxy primer will all need sanding for anything new coming on top? Correct?

I just see a lot of extra work (in sanding, I guess) if I do the steps in this order. But maybe I'm just overthinking it all. My buddies who have done cars ascribe to getting the car blasted and then put on a self-etching primer and start the metal work. I didn't like that idea. I want to make sure that the prep is done right. Plus I like the information I've learned here about the Epoxy Primer and seems the Mustang group likes it as well.

So I guess my question is what steps do you like to use when you have a grungy mess, with 50 years of different repair jobs and coatings, know most of what metal needs replacing but there could be a few hidden issues, and know that it's going to be a long, long road till time for base coat? I will say I have a great supply of patience. Thanks in advance for any advice! Really appreciate the forums.

Thanks,
RH
Austin, TX
 
Last edited by a moderator:
vidkidruss said:
Hello. I've been reading a ton, learned quite a bit but want to run my project by those who know more. Here's the details:
  • 67 Mustang coupe, down to the shell now and I have to make some decisions on the next steps.
  • Metal I know I need to replace: both floorpans, floor supports, and toe kicks, torque box, driver side rocker panel, trunk dropdowns, cowl and drip rails
  • Replacement metal is mix of e-coated steel, weld-thru primer and unprimed.
  • Body panels have mild rust but will need lots of beating and filler
  • I want to have the shell and other parts media blasted so I can start fresh as there is no good paint on the car
  • I like the Red Oxide epoxy primer option and feel this is what I should start with on coatings
  • This is my first full restore. I work well, but very SLOW
I'm conflicted if I should do the media blasting first because I know that I'll need to apply the epoxy primer soon after. This will mean that I will have the shell, doors, hood, etc in epoxy primer for probably a year while I work on all the metal. I've read that I will need to resand the epoxy primer to prep it for say a 2K medium build primer and any filler I use. I'm assuming that also means the door jambs, any nook cranny, etc that has 1yr old epoxy primer will all need sanding for anything new coming on top? Correct?

I just see a lot of extra work (in sanding, I guess) if I do the steps in this order. But maybe I'm just overthinking it all. My buddies who have done cars ascribe to getting the car blasted and then put on a self-etching primer and start the metal work. I didn't like that idea. I want to make sure that the prep is done right. Plus I like the information I've learned here about the Epoxy Primer and seems the Mustang group likes it as well.

So I guess my question is what steps do you like to use when you have a grungy mess, with 50 years of different repair jobs and coatings, know most of what metal needs replacing but there could be a few hidden issues, and know that it's going to be a long, long road till time for base coat? I will say I have a great supply of patience. Thanks in advance for any advice! Really appreciate the forums.

Thanks,
RH
Austin, TX
Click to expand...

My advice would be to go ahead and blast it. Get it all into Epoxy asap. You won't really know what you have until it is blasted. Also, it will be much, much more pleasant to work on, having clean primed and protected metal.

As far as the extra work goes it really is not that much. Scuffing the epoxy and recoating the areas you are working on is no big deal.

If you have the patience, as you say, and enjoy the process you will never regret getting it down to bare metal and epoxied. I have been working on a project for 5 years this month. As the bikers say, "the journey is the destination."

Good luck with your project. Hope you enjoy it!

John
 
I'd get it blasted and coat the whole thing in black epoxy. The black will help show how bad the car is. I'd still use black on a white car for the first go around. Scuffing epoxy after the body work isn't a big deal. I run a long block with 180 over it and pick the low spots after the metal work is done. Once all the epoxy is scuffed and low spots are bought up then I put two more coats of black epoxy on. Then I go to filler and work it from there.

You can shoot the underside with red epoxy after all the metal work. Don't waste you time with self etch. It doesn't seal the metal to prevent rust very good. I've taken stalled out projects with it applied over bare metal and it can be rusty under it. Epoxy applied correctly never does this.

Good luck
 
Thanks John and Brad for the advice and reassurance on the sanding!

On the scuffing of the epoxy and recoating, I'm assuming that will need to be done anywhere a recoat happens, correct? Like the trunk for example or a wheel well, etc?

Thanks!
RH
 
I am not the resident expert here but yes. That is correct. For optimum performance, you will want to scuff the epoxy and recoat it after the 7 days have passed.

Being a hobbyist who enjoys saving cars others would walk away from, I will take a panel, scuff, reshoot a couple of coats, and do my filler work and then possibly go ahead a d shoot 2k primer surfacer. After that panel is roughed in I will re-shoot it with epoxy and while I have the epoxy mixed I will shoot the next panel I have scuffed and waiting and repeat the process. This way I stay within my 7 day window and can focus on one area, or panel, at a time.

Remember, I am a hobbiest, so I have less time to devote than a shop that is working on a project 8 hours a day. I am slower also. The key is to get the metal clean and keep it protected during the build process.

Have you read "The Perfect Paint Job" Barry has written? It is a concise but very thorough guide to a successful paint job for both hobbiest and proffesional. You will find it on the SPI home page.

John
 
John Long said:
I am not the resident expert here but yes. That is correct. For optimum performance, you will want to scuff the epoxy and recoat it after the 7 days have passed.

Being a hobbyist who enjoys saving cars others would walk away from, I will take a panel, scuff, reshoot a couple of coats, and do my filler work and then possibly go ahead a d shoot 2k primer surfacer. After that panel is roughed in I will re-shoot it with epoxy and while I have the epoxy mixed I will shoot the next panel I have scuffed and waiting and repeat the process. This way I stay within my 7 day window and can focus on one area, or panel, at a time.

Remember, I am a hobbiest, so I have less time to devote than a shop that is working on a project 8 hours a day. I am slower also. The key is to get the metal clean and keep it protected during the build process.

Have you read "The Perfect Paint Job" Barry has written? It is a concise but very thorough guide to a successful paint job for both hobbiest and proffesional. You will find it on the SPI home page.

John
Click to expand...
I have not read Barry's write up but will find it and do that now! I like your tips and I'm in that same hobbyist boat so a process that works for folks like us is exactly what I'm interested in.

I was wondering about going ahead and shooting some 2k primer at the early stages within that 7 day windows as a way to maybe minimize some work in the areas that I won't revisit necessarily. So thanks for confirming that tip!
RH
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
I recommend you read through Rusty's threads. He has a number of mustang projects and his work is top notch.
Click to expand...

I have seen some of Rusty's posts and I need to condense some of the great tips he has for each stage!
 
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