Protecting Bare Metal

Joe in NY

Joe in NY

Promoted Users
I plan to use SPI epoxy primary/sealer as my first coat. I've read that it cannot be sprayed on metal below 65 degrees F. I'm in upstate NY and I've got parts of my car stripped to bare metal. Is there anything I can get my garage up to about 55 degrees. What can I spray on the exposed metal to protect it until it gets warmer and won't will be compatible with the epoxy?
 
plenty of winter subjects on Temps, so what you have to do is get the metal and the Spi product itself up to temp, This is more important than just warming up the work area. Heat lamps and Torpedo Heaters is what you want to help you get it there.

as for the metal protection, I'll leave that for the Spi pro's to answer.
 
65 isnt quite accurate. the metal temp really cannot be below 50-55. below 50 the epoxy will dry but wont cure. it will go dormant as well as most paints no matter what they are or who makes them.
 
I checked into temporary rust protection before and haven't found anything I'd care for.
But here's reality. Wipe any oil from your hands off with alcohol, that'll help keep rust down. Keeping it covered won't hurt. Humidity gauges are cheap. If you seem to have dampness coming through your concrete, cardboard can help that. Can run a dehumidifier if needed. Come springtime when you can easily heat area warm enough a little flash rust isn't that bad to remove with sanding & rotary powered wire brushing.
You could spray rattle can self etching primer thinly & then sand it off later, but you'd be wasting product & still sanding any ole way , so pointless for short term.
Joe in N Florida.:p
 
It's better in the long run to invest in something that can keep the spray area warm for extended periods. It's not worth wrecking an entire paint job by skimping on heat.
 
What parts are stripped? Can you move the stripped parts to an area that would have lower humidity? That is if humidity is even a problem in your garage.
 
I may get chastised, but if the metal is going to sit for a while,(which is only a few days around here before surface rust starts appearing), I will spray ospho on the panels. Only a thin coat is required, then when it is time to epoxy, I rewet it thoroughly with ospho and wash it off with dawn before it dries. If you use distilled water to rinse it the flash rust is minimal. Dry it with air, clean it with 700, wait an hour or so and spray your epoxy. Done this many times and haven't had any adhesion problems. I think the key is being thorough and making sure you rewet and wash every square inch.
 
Ospho sounds good BUT

A lot of restro shops will leave a blasted car in bare metal for 3-6 months depending on the deal being done.
Even in the south with its 200% humidity, well OK close!
The car may turn golden yellow over that time.
They will knock off with 80 grit and take a grey or red scuff pad to the hard to reach area and it comes right off.
In NY not so sure you would even need to worry about it but not sure.
 
Good to know, Barry. I just always feared not getting it all off. This business will make you paranoid about everything! I remember stripping Chevrolet trucks back in the 90's (white ones to metal) and having some come back with small areas of bubbles. When you popped the bubbles, it had what looked like a battery acid type substance in them. We were finishing the metal with 180, wiping with 330, and spraying DP 48 under the paint. PPG rep told us he guessed we were going to have to spray etching primer first before the epoxy. I would hate to see what those trucks looked like now!
 
Joe in NY,
I have left bare metal in a unheated garage all winter with no oxidation (I live on Long Island). In the winter the humidity is very low which is why the metal doesn't rust quickly. When I am ready to start work again, I'll go over it quickly with 80 grit on a DA.

Mike
 
texasking said:
Good to know, Barry. I just always feared not getting it all off. This business will make you paranoid about everything! I remember stripping Chevrolet trucks back in the 90's (white ones to metal) and having some come back with small areas of bubbles. When you popped the bubbles, it had what looked like a battery acid type substance in them. We were finishing the metal with 180, wiping with 330, and spraying DP 48 under the paint. PPG rep told us he guessed we were going to have to spray etching primer first before the epoxy. I would hate to see what those trucks looked like now!
Click to expand...

Another thing why ospho now and create work that may not be necessary? Worst case is you have to ospho after it sets rest of winter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top