Quarter Patch

JimKueneman

Mopar Nut
As some know I started to replace this quarter because of some rust on the lower edge and kids had cut out the lip for the old school fat tires and found it had been hit and a hack job quarter replacement had occurred long, long ago. The quarter patches I had did not go far enough and I lucked out with a guy that had a rust bucked but the upper quarter was fine. He cut out a good chunk for me and I will weld the lower patches to this one but but I am strategizing how to put this upper patch in... what do you guys think of this plan? (may take a few minutes to convert and be ready to view).


Thanks,
Jim
 
I’ll leave this to the experts but I would not cut and weld right on a body line. Cut just below or above it to preserve it imho.

There are many ways to do this, interested to see what the experts have to say.

Don
 
I’ll leave this to the experts but I would not cut and weld right on a body line. Cut just below or above it to preserve it imho.

There are many ways to do this, interested to see what the experts have to say.

Don

Don, there is a molding that covers that depressed area. Body line is just under it. Figured it would be easy to hide.
 
I worry that the body line will be lost or distorted. That’s why I never cut right on a body line. Always a little above or below. Interested in what others say since I am an amateur.

Don
 
I worry that the body line will be lost or distorted. That’s why I never cut right on a body line. Always a little above or below. Interested in what others say since I am an amateur.

Don

I always do a lot of shaping on body lines during body work to get them sharper anyway. Can't think of one that I just left the way it was :)
 
But the inherent strength and stiffness of a body line is compromised or lost when you cut right on it.

You’re an engineer, do the math.... :)

Anyway, you asked for input and I gave you what little input I have... :)

Don
 
But the inherent strength and stiffness of a body line is compromised or lost when you cut right on it.

You’re an engineer, do the math.... :)

Anyway, you asked for input and I gave you what little input I have... :)

Don

That is a point I had not thought about... thanks.
 
Jim, is there a third layer behind those two panels in the "pinch weld" seam area, or it just the sail panel and quarter coming together?
 
I'm a sparky not mechanical so I don't know nothing 'bout no mechanical stuff!
Hahahaha. I couldn’t resist the temptation for a little engineer to engineer ribbing.... :). Don’t get to do that much now that I am retired...

Don
 
Last edited:
Spot welds will result in far less distortion than a welded seam, so my preference would be to use the factory flanges and the spot (plug) welds to hold them on. We had some damage to the upper part of the quarter panel on the wagon. With no reproduction parts available, we lucked out in finding an NOS quarter panel for a 4 door wagon. It did not fit our 2 door, but given all the damage was toward the back of the car, it would fix all the rust issues found.


Picture081.jpg



We had similar issues in accessing the top spot welds that were covered by the next panel up, in our case, the drip rail and roof skin. How to remove the old and install the new.... Our plan was to cut as close to the "spot welded" flange of the original as close as we could, leaving a narrow strip that would be much easier to remove... :


Quartercutmark.png



Removing the leftover strips..

Picture111.jpg



The inside of the structural boxing had some strategically placed oval holes that the factory used in spot welding the upper quarter, upper boxing, and drip rail together...


Picture253.jpg



We used this to our advantage in locating the spot welds that would serve the same function once the upper flange of the quarter was back in place....


Picture256.jpg




Picture275.jpg




Picture276.jpg



for minimal deformity, just as the factory had done...


Picture303.jpg



Picture304.jpg




So my recommendation is to do all you can to install these pieces back using spot/plug welds on the factory flanges. Welding on a outward protruding body crease is near impossible to fix once shrinking has pulled it inward. On the ear that mates to the trunk/rear deck filler panel, same thing. Melt out the lead seam and spot weld the panel flanges back together as it was originally done.
 
Thanks Robert. You gave me some ideas I will try tonight. I can cut that lip off as well to slide it up under there. There is one other tab with 2 spot welds but I can get that from the back I believe.

I have no idea how to melt out the lead and do that. Mmmmm new tool time... (don't have a torch) Are you totally against a butt weld across the Dutchman panel?
 
Last edited:
Even a propane torch like you’d use for soldering copper pipe is enough torch for the job. Yes, the flanges overlap under the leaded seam. If you put your weld anywhere near that lead it’s going to melt out regardless. But using a butt weld instead will give a bit of distortion.
 
You likely already have this covered but get your trunk gaps where you want them before tacking the ear to the deck filler panel.

Looking good Jim. For most of the mistakes I’ve made, I learned that a little bit extra time spent on prep work pays rewards in the end. No matter what the task is.
 
Back
Top