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RWT
I’ve been restoring a 1954 Ford F100 as a retirement project. It will be a nice looking driver, not a show truck. Last month I painted the cab with 3 coats each of SPI Dark Red and Universal Clear. As a first timer with body work and painting I have done a ton of research including this forum before each step and have made my share of mistakes. I went with SPI because of the many positive reviews on quality of the products and technical support. They were correct. Barry was awesome in helping me by phone and texts.
I painted the cab in pieces. I’m thinking I will cut and buff most of the panels before assembly mostly because it will be easier to reach and more comfortable working on stands especially the hood and doors.
My paint has many nibs mostly on the panels that were painted in the horizontal position. My homemade booth was a 12 x 20 yard canopy that I lined the walls and floor with poly. The positive pressure filtered forced air caused the polyester roof to flex up. I believe that was the source of most of the contaminates.
I have some varying degrees of orange peel and a few areas of dry spray. My goal is to flatten the nibs, and the worst of the orange peel and dry spray. After reading posts here I have ordered Eagle Abrasives 1000 & 1200 grit yellow film disks, 1500 grit Assilex disks, and 3000 & 8000 Trizact disks. My random orbit DA has a 3/32” orbit. Will it work or do I have to by a 3/16”?
I have questions about compounding and polishing. I will be using a Dewalt DWP849x 7”/9” polisher that I used for stripping paint. I’m planning on ordering the 3D ACA500 compound and ACA520 polish.
1. Lake Country pads are well reviewed here. I’m thinking yellow, orange, white, and black.
2. What diameter? Should I get more than one diameter?
3. Should they all be the flat CCS type? I see they offer a rounded bottom pad. (my old fat fender ford has lots of raised radiused panels)
4. What about wool? I was thinking the 3 coats of clear may not have enough film thickness to include wool?
5. I only have the original Dewalt backing plate. It’s 6.75” OD and the Velcro is 6” OD. Do I need a different backing plate for any of these pads?
6. Can you give me advise on rotary RPMs for each step?
Thank you for your help.
Bob
I painted the cab in pieces. I’m thinking I will cut and buff most of the panels before assembly mostly because it will be easier to reach and more comfortable working on stands especially the hood and doors.
My paint has many nibs mostly on the panels that were painted in the horizontal position. My homemade booth was a 12 x 20 yard canopy that I lined the walls and floor with poly. The positive pressure filtered forced air caused the polyester roof to flex up. I believe that was the source of most of the contaminates.
I have some varying degrees of orange peel and a few areas of dry spray. My goal is to flatten the nibs, and the worst of the orange peel and dry spray. After reading posts here I have ordered Eagle Abrasives 1000 & 1200 grit yellow film disks, 1500 grit Assilex disks, and 3000 & 8000 Trizact disks. My random orbit DA has a 3/32” orbit. Will it work or do I have to by a 3/16”?
I have questions about compounding and polishing. I will be using a Dewalt DWP849x 7”/9” polisher that I used for stripping paint. I’m planning on ordering the 3D ACA500 compound and ACA520 polish.
1. Lake Country pads are well reviewed here. I’m thinking yellow, orange, white, and black.
2. What diameter? Should I get more than one diameter?
3. Should they all be the flat CCS type? I see they offer a rounded bottom pad. (my old fat fender ford has lots of raised radiused panels)
4. What about wool? I was thinking the 3 coats of clear may not have enough film thickness to include wool?
5. I only have the original Dewalt backing plate. It’s 6.75” OD and the Velcro is 6” OD. Do I need a different backing plate for any of these pads?
6. Can you give me advise on rotary RPMs for each step?
Thank you for your help.
Bob