Quincy QT5

To AAE I bet it is the start cap. One is a start cap. And the other is a run cap. They cost less then $30.00 hope that is all you need. Tom
 
Good electric motors are serviceable. Sounds like that repair shop didn't want to be bothered with the job. That said the shops that used to be near me have long since closed up.
I saved the explosion proof motor on the tube axial exhaust fan 4 times over the last 20 years or so. First it was a centrifugal contact, simple solder fix. 2nd it was a shaft bearing, standard ball bearing. Then I replaced the two capacitors two different times. All the parts can be found at Grainger or McMaster-Carr.
When the capacitors went the motor would hum and not start but if you pushed the pulley by hand it would run. I'm no electrical expert but the motor frame was $800 for the explosion proof and about $400 for non explosion model at the time, probably more now.
 
I received a message stating it's probably the start cap. You guys have confirmed that too. Is that a DIY repair? Any worries about latent power in the caps?
 
Easy to do. I changed them twice in my current comp and once in my old compressor. Takes 5 min
 
AAE said:
I received a message stating it's probably the start cap. You guys have confirmed that too. Is that a DIY repair? Any worries about latent power in the caps?
Click to expand...
No latent power in those capacitors. Flashback to old tube televisions right there

Don
 
Interesting sidebar on start capacitors. These are huge money makers for AC repair companies. Can be bought for less than $10 but they’ll charge you $75 or more plus a sizeable service charge. I keep spares for all of my AC caps on the shelf at home. Fan and compressor caps.

Don
 
dhutton01 said:
Interesting sidebar on start capacitors. These are huge money makers for AC repair companies. Can be bought for less than $10 but they’ll charge you $75 or more plus a sizeable service charge. I keep spares for all of my AC caps on the shelf at home. Fan and compressor caps.

Don
Click to expand...
The company I called wanted $120/hr for on-site and $85/hr in shop. I'm guessing I just have to remove the top cover to access them?
 
Any guesses? Would it be wise to change all or is the start cap usually the one to go bad most often?
Thanks!
 

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the start caps are most likely the two on the right with the foam around them. the metal one is probably the run cap which rarely goes. just replace the two on the right. take the foam off and the specs are printed right on the side. you can probably get them right on amazon or ebay.
 
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