Repaint question

C

chipflyer

I have a new Jeep hood that I have painted flame red to match the rest of the body. It was stripped to bare metal, primed with SPI epoxy, And then sprayed with Sherwin Williams base and 6 Coats of SPI universal clear . It couldn't have turned out better and I was very happy with the results (for a hobbyist), it really looked good but it didn't match quite well enough to meet my taste. I have bought another quart of base that is a better match and I'm going to re spray the hood. What is the preferred method for respraying base/clear when the finish you are spraying is in really good condition? Can it just be scuffed or does it need more prep work than that?
thank you

Jeff
 
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Sherwin Williams again? I also had a terrible match of red. After I complained I asked if they want me cut off a chip from the old fender extensions so they can match it and they said they dont have equipment for that.
 
Mixed enough clear the first time for 3 coats with 30 minutes between coats, just didn't want to waste it. After sanding it and letting it sit in the sun I made the mistake of mixing the same amount and applying three coats again. If it spays as nice this time as it did before there will be no more than 4 coats.
 
Anytime anything is sprayed there should be a sprayout made before the panel is painted. No matter what the paint code or paint manufacturer, you can't call a jobber and order code PR4, for example, and expect it to match. These codes have been used on many different vehicles, many different years, painted at many different factories, and frankly the vehicle manufacturers could care less about consistency because they don't have to match them. Had an experience at a Chevrolet dealership many years ago where they had an Astro van, light autumnwood, with a damaged hood. It was a sold unit so their bright idea was to switch hoods with another Astro van with the same code. Not even close. They got a lesson on what the painters had to go through to match these brand new vehicles. Couldn't use the excuse that it was faded, just found out the manufacturers can't spray 2 vehicles the same. That is why there are so many variants for each code. I used to cut panels for the paint rep off of new vehicles with the VIN # so he could send them in for color correction. Next thing you know you look up a code and there may be 10 or more alternate formulas. If you call a jobber and order paint and you get a blendable match, consider yourself lucky. If you call and get a dead panel match, go buy some lottery tickets:)
 
Anytime anything is sprayed there should be a sprayout made before the panel is painted. No matter what the paint code or paint manufacturer, you can't call a jobber and order code PR4, for example, and expect it to match. These codes have been used on many different vehicles, many different years, painted at many different factories, and frankly the vehicle manufacturers could care less about consistency because they don't have to match them. Had an experience at a Chevrolet dealership many years ago where they had an Astro van, light autumnwood, with a damaged hood. It was a sold unit so their bright idea was to switch hoods with another Astro van with the same code. Not even close. They got a lesson on what the painters had to go through to match these brand new vehicles. Couldn't use the excuse that it was faded, just found out the manufacturers can't spray 2 vehicles the same. That is why there are so many variants for each code. I used to cut panels for the paint rep off of new vehicles with the VIN # so he could send them in for color correction. Next thing you know you look up a code and there may be 10 or more alternate formulas. If you call a jobber and order paint and you get a blendable match, consider yourself lucky. If you call and get a dead panel match, go buy some lottery tickets:)

Honda and Toyota are horrible for variants.
 
Anytime anything is sprayed there should be a sprayout made before the panel is painted. No matter what the paint code or paint manufacturer, you can't call a jobber and order code PR4, for example, and expect it to match. These codes have been used on many different vehicles, many different years, painted at many different factories, and frankly the vehicle manufacturers could care less about consistency because they don't have to match them. Had an experience at a Chevrolet dealership many years ago where they had an Astro van, light autumnwood, with a damaged hood. It was a sold unit so their bright idea was to switch hoods with another Astro van with the same code. Not even close. They got a lesson on what the painters had to go through to match these brand new vehicles. Couldn't use the excuse that it was faded, just found out the manufacturers can't spray 2 vehicles the same. That is why there are so many variants for each code. I used to cut panels for the paint rep off of new vehicles with the VIN # so he could send them in for color correction. Next thing you know you look up a code and there may be 10 or more alternate formulas. If you call a jobber and order paint and you get a blendable match, consider yourself lucky. If you call and get a dead panel match, go buy some lottery tickets:)

Was thinking the same thing Texas.:)

@chipflyer How do you know it's a better match? Unless you did a sprayout and it was spot on, chances are it won't match this time either unless you blend. Even with a sprayout that "matches" I found that Reds are really difficult to accurately match via a chip or the sprayout card. Hopefully it will be close enough but chances are it'll need blending. Oh and stop at three coats, four maximum if you plan to cut and buff. No way should you put 6 more coats on there. 6 coats the first time and 6 the second you are going to have issues down the road because of the massive amount of millage (thickness of all applied coatings) that will result from putting that much clear on the panel.
 
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Was thinking the same thing Texas.:)

@chipflyer How do you know it's a better match? Unless you did a sprayout and it was spot on, chances are it won't match this time either unless you blend. Even with a sprayout that "matches" I found that Reds are really difficult to accurately match via a chip or the sprayout card. Hopefully it will be close enough but chances are it'll need blending. Oh and stop at three coats, four maximum if you plan to cut and buff. No way should you put 6 more coats on there. 6 coats the first time and 6 the second you are going to have issues down the road because of the massive amount of millage (thickness of all applied coatings) that will result from putting that much clear on the panel.



I did test spray and clear a section of the old hood, it's a match. I will cut and buff and will stop at 4 coats of clear as previously stated.

Thanks for all the input everyone.
 
I did test spray and clear a section of the old hood, it's a match. I will cut and buff and will stop at 4 coats of clear as previously stated.

Thanks for all the input everyone.

3 coats would be better, you already have a lot of material on that hood as it is. Seriously.
 
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